Sprocket questions - Yamaha R6 Forum: YZF-R6 Forums
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-11-2012, 04:49 PM Thread Starter
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Sprocket questions

So i have a 2006 R6 thats a dedicated track bike. I'm not really looking to dump tons of money into it in terms of horespower upgrades and such, so I was thinking about tweeking the sprockets a little. I know some guys say that a huge boost in acceleration can be gotten from doing the 520 conversion and a -1/+2. I heard it gets a bit punchy with that much of a change however. So heres my question..... Theres some inexpensive oem sprockets ( oem 525 pitch ) out there that i can expreiment with without going the full route of a 520 conversion. Would i get a little more pep out of the corners without changing it too much if I go with.....

1) Just a +1 on the rear ?

2) Just a +2 on the rear ?

3) Just a -1 up front?

Thoughts???

Thanks
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-11-2012, 05:32 PM
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Re: Sprocket questions

I did 520 -1 Front and I think it's a great compromise. You don't lose much on the freeway, but the acceleration gain is noticeable.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-12-2012, 06:22 AM
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Re: Sprocket questions

Just ran my first day on -1/+1. It makes a big difference in punch.

I was getting a fair amount of rear slides until I adjusted how I was cracking on the throttle. With the stock gearing I could be hamfisted in a lot of spots and not have trouble.

Before around 135 the bike really struggled to keep pulling and felt soggy, now it punches up to 140 and will pull in 6th, which I never needed in the past.

I'd say -1 on the front. That puts the top end about 160 which is closer to reality than the 170 it is geared for stock.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-12-2012, 06:30 AM
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Re: Sprocket questions

the problem with going up in the rear is that you add rotational mass (weight) the problem with going too small in the front is increased chain drag as well as chain is more likely to bind around a smaller sprocket. I've heard several stunter buddies run -2 in the front on 2nd gens with a 532 chain so I would imagine you could run the same set up on a 520 chain as long as it's a quality, well lubed chain. The idea is getting the lower gearing without adding the weight of the rear sprocket. However if you go aluminum in the rear weight is going to be minimal. I personally run -1/+1 & -1/+2 depending on the situation and I find the -1/+1 combo more street friendly but the -1/+2 is more fun on the back roads, especially when the other guys running 600cc bikes are wondering why they can't keep up.

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-12-2012, 07:18 AM
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Re: Sprocket questions

-1/+1 is what's on my track bike. not a bad compromise.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-12-2012, 11:08 AM
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Re: Sprocket questions

I've got just a +2 on the rear (previous owner did it) but I do like the gain in acceleration compared to the stock gear I test drove one time.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-12-2012, 11:45 AM
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Re: Sprocket questions

For playing around on the cheap, -1 in the front might allow you to keep the same chain. If you went bigger in the rear, depending on the chain length and slack, it might be too tight. Also front sprockets are cheap.

Really changing sprockets for the track is so you have the right gearing to stay in the right power band. So for a small tight track, I might have 15f/46r. Or a long track I might use close to the stock setup. If I'm hitting the rev limiter in 3rd on a short straight, but grabbing a quick 4th then and back down is actually going to cost me time.... I might try 1 tooth down in the back. Then again, that might throw off my drive somewhere else on the track. You just have to find what makes you faster.
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