CCS RACING Bike Prep - Yamaha R6 Forum: YZF-R6 Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-14-2013, 07:24 AM Thread Starter
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CCS RACING Bike Prep

Searched, couldn't find any answers.
Has anyone prepped a 1st gen for CCS? I have the bike torn down to a bare frame right now. (going through everything to make sure it's not going to implode on itself)
I know I need to safety wire the oil drain bolt, filler cap and put a worm clamp on the spin on filter then safety wire that. What about the hex bolt I found on the side of the engine that also appears to be a drain bolt?
The worm clamps that hold the coolant hoses and such on, do they need to be safety wired in some way? What about the bolt holding the oil cooler on the front? Radiator cap?
I know I will need,
fluid catch pan (race fairings)
hardened engine cases (anyone have any experience with fabricating your own "slider" for stock casings?
safety wire pliers
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-14-2013, 08:08 AM
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Re: CCS RACING Bike Prep


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scroll down to the bike tech part.
I don't know if hand fabricated case covers will be approved, but if they look like some other aftermarket ones you see they should be. There are a number of companies that make em.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-14-2013, 09:20 AM Thread Starter
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Re: CCS RACING Bike Prep

I have read the CCS rules a few times over. I must be over thinking it or just looking for someone to explain it to me like I'm 5. I'd hate to mess up or skip something so that's why I've turned to you guys!
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-14-2013, 09:29 AM
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Re: CCS RACING Bike Prep

i can tell you ya can't OVER safetywire and outfit your bike. You won't get a penalty for doing too much preventative stuff.

everything you listed above is needed other than some of the coolant hose clamp wiring. The oil cooler bolt is not required to be wired, but DAMN it's a good idea. I have mine wired. Coolant drain is not required, but again, not a bad idea. Caliper and pinch bolts used to be required but not any longer. Nearly all calipers are radial mounted and they simply can not back out if loose the way older style side mount caliper bolts would. I have 2 friends that had career ending crashes from caliper bolts that backed out on the old style calipers.

i suggest going to the ccs racing discussion forum for more answers .. will likely get more replies as all of the users there are ccs racers.

MICHELIN, EBC, Proflow Technologies
Silkolene, JenningsGP, Engine Ice, Sharkskinz, Pit-Bull


Greg Melka - CCS roadracing and FTR harescrambles

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-14-2013, 10:38 AM
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Re: CCS RACING Bike Prep

Melk - do you safety wire to spring clips for the frequently removed stuff - aka, stuff that needs to be removed for tire changes. Maybe it's a non-issue since it sounds like CCS doesn't require most of it to be wired in the first place (calipers, pinch bolts).

I'm sure in expert 600s and 1000s everyone's got radial mounted calipers, but there's still plenty of new guys on older bikes, or vintage racers, or lightweights that are still running machinery that has the side-mount calipers. And don't forget your favorite bike has them too!
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The OP is also racing a 1st gen, so it definitely applies to him.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-14-2013, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
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Re: CCS RACING Bike Prep

Ah perfect, thanks mate!
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-14-2013, 10:42 AM Thread Starter
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Re: CCS RACING Bike Prep

Just to add, the 99 r6 I have does have the R1 front end swapped on to it, if that makes a difference.

Nevermind, I see the difference between traditional and radial now. Traditional, the caliper bolts go in 90degrees to the rotor, radial the go in straight down. Right?

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-14-2013, 11:06 AM
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Re: CCS RACING Bike Prep

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Originally Posted by Fallis View Post
Melk - do you safety wire to spring clips for the frequently removed stuff - aka, stuff that needs to be removed for tire changes. Maybe it's a non-issue since it sounds like CCS doesn't require most of it to be wired in the first place (calipers, pinch bolts).

I'm sure in expert 600s and 1000s everyone's got radial mounted calipers, but there's still plenty of new guys on older bikes, or vintage racers, or lightweights that are still running machinery that has the side-mount calipers. And don't forget your favorite bike has them too!
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The OP is also racing a 1st gen, so it definitely applies to him.
I always ran clips with wire ran between that keeps em from rotating, on the caliper bolts of my 03-04 and even 05 bikes (then didn't bother after that). I highly suggest at least using clips with safety wire running between them on non-radial caliper bolts. Honestly don't know if they are required any longer. WERA also freed up some safety wire regs, they used to require header bolts to be safety wired. If the header comes off, it's hanging in the belly pan. Not sure if that's why they did away with that rule, but not required.

I don't safety wire my header springs or mid pipe springs. The LeoVince ones are very good, the hindle ones i had on my 05 were junk. They broke from vibration all the time, those i safety wired. pinch bolts don't need wired.

Again, if you have a 1st gen or 03-04/S model, you best safety wire the caliper bolts, or at least have a clip on each with wire between that is short enough to keep the clips in line so the bolts can't back out.. regardless if tech requires it or not..

MICHELIN, EBC, Proflow Technologies
Silkolene, JenningsGP, Engine Ice, Sharkskinz, Pit-Bull


Greg Melka - CCS roadracing and FTR harescrambles

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-14-2013, 11:13 AM
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Re: CCS RACING Bike Prep

Quote:
Originally Posted by stofficer2 View Post
Just to add, the 99 r6 I have does have the R1 front end swapped on to it, if that makes a difference.

Nevermind, I see the difference between traditional and radial now. Traditional, the caliper bolts go in 90degrees to the rotor, radial the go in straight down. Right?
non-radial caliper bolts, that come in at the 90d to the rotor, if loose, will turn a little every time you hit the brakes. Usually the left side caliper, as that's the one that if the caliper goes up the bolt turns outward. But the right one can back out too if the inside part of the caliper bolt hole is what is rubbing on the caliper bolt. Regardless. It only takes ONE caliper to fall off for you to have zero brake pressure the next time you go for the brakes.
2 friends had this occur. Once in 2003 to Cameron Sydenham on his sv650. of course it was the longest straight at Moroso speedway where it came off. He was in the hospital for a week with a punctured lung when his bike landed on him after flipping when he crashed. He and his stepdad were in a rush to change to rain wheels. Remember that well as we pitted together.
Next time was WIlliam Meyers on his 04r6 in 04. (he's now a pro race bike mechanic for Celtic racing and other teams). His r6 caliper came off entering turn 3 at JenningsGP after a tire change, mid race. Huge crash but he was less hurt.

MICHELIN, EBC, Proflow Technologies
Silkolene, JenningsGP, Engine Ice, Sharkskinz, Pit-Bull


Greg Melka - CCS roadracing and FTR harescrambles

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-14-2013, 11:17 AM
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Re: CCS RACING Bike Prep

Quote:
Originally Posted by stofficer2 View Post
Just to add, the 99 r6 I have does have the R1 front end swapped on to it, if that makes a difference.

Nevermind, I see the difference between traditional and radial now. Traditional, the caliper bolts go in 90degrees to the rotor, radial the go in straight down. Right?

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Radial mount:

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Traditional mount:

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