Re: Repairing Armor Bodies Bodywork
yep one of the easiest things to do. make sure you scuff the old stuff up. some resins have wax in them(helps them cure faster as it keeps the air off and the parts are not still sticky days later) and the new resin will not stick to it unless it's been sanded down a little.
the autoparts store stuff usually from (bondo) is made by 3M. it's just an all purpose polyester resin and will work perfectly for repairs. not so good for making a whole part though. for repairs the shredded fiber is the best. it's cheap and builds up fast.
things you will need, you can actually get all of this at home depot or lowes.
1. small plastic measuring cups. the kind with the measurements on them so you can reuse them. the resin will melt drinking cups.
2. the resin and fiber
3. several chip brushes(get a lot as you will not be able to reuse them unless you clean them with acetone which is a waste of money as the acetone costs more than 50 brushes)
4 paper towels in case you make a mess
5. disposable gloves. these will also eventually melt from the resin so expect to have to change them out a few times. the thick yellow dishwashing gloves are a lot better and don't melt.
6. several paint sticks
7. a board you can lay the strips of fiberglass on and brush on the resin. this board will not be reusable. maybe cover it with plastic sheeting if you need it when done. or a disposable alum pie pan would work.
8. scissors or a razor knife. the scissors maybe become trashed when you are done as the fiberglass material eats them up pretty fast.
9 painters tape (if there are holes in the bodywork)
1. sand the area you are going to fix. remove any dirt or oil with a solvent such as acetone. acetone is a solvent for the resin too. so you can clean up your tools with it or thin the resin.
2. plan and cut out the size of the sheets you need to cover the busted area.
3. use tape on the outside to cover any holes from the damaged area. (will prevent the resin from running out)
4. measure out the amount of resin you need and put in the required amount of drops of the MEK hardener, stir it up very well.
5. lay the cut out piece of fiberglass cloth flat on the table and brush the resin on it.
6. lay it on the part and use the brush to push it into the part until you get the air bubbles out.
repeat steps 5+6 until you're happy it's thick enough.
try not to use excessive amounts of resin. it will just end up cracking off. brush it out or soak it up with paper towels.
it takes several days at 70 degrees to fully harden. be patient.
as for fixing the outside, you will need plastic body filler. aka bondo
one more thing, if you leave any unused resin in the cup it could heat up enough to melt it. pour the resin out into something metal or spread it out on the board or something. so keep that in mind. don't throw the remainder in the trash as it may catch on fire. (yes it generates that much heat from a chemical reaction) let it cool down. I've seen parts smoking in 85 degree summer days. so yeah, the resin can generate a lot of heat.
Last edited by yamahacrazy; 12-18-2016 at 03:28 PM.