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This is my first How-to write up, so there may be some mistakes and errors but I will do my best. This write up will explain how to access/remove tank,air filter,coils, how to test coils, and spark plug change.

Tools Needed: 3/8 ratchet,3/8 extension(short and long), 3/8 swivel adapter, 10mm socket, 5/8 spark plug socket, needle nose pliers(long and short), phillips head screw driver, multimeter, flash light helps, allen/hex keys(4mm and 5mm), pen and paper to write down your coil resistance values, fire extinguisher, wire snips, feeler gauge and spark plug gap tool, zip ties, rags, sharpy to mark hoses or connectors, and beer of your choice. Most manuals say to disconnect the battery to avoid and shorts and blown fuses.


***Disclaimer**** I am not a certified technician, I am not responsible for any problems or injuries that may happen to you or your motorcycle. And I am not responsible in any way for anything that may happen from reading/following this article.


First things first, get the important stuff:


I will assume you know how to remove the seat, if not its just 2 5mm hex bolts at the rear of the seat. After seat is removed remove the 2 hex bolts at the top of the tank circled in red. And using a 10mm socket loosen but do not remove the bolt at the rear of the tank.



Now the tank should pivot up, and use a block of wood or something to prop it up or just hold it with your hand. There are two wiring connectors(green and white), remove both. Remove security clip on fuel supply line and remove, then remove clamps and remaining hoses and remove hoses. Have rags ready as some fuel may spill out. Now remove the 10mm bolt at rear of tank and lift the tank off the bike and place in a safe place.


Better pic of fuel supply line with security clip.



Now you'll be looking at the air box. Remove the bolt at the top/front of air box(I believe its 10mm). If you are not replacing air filter leave top of the air box on and skip to next step. If you are removing air filter then remove the 6 screws holding the top on. Once that is removed you can remove the air filter to clean or replace.



Now remove these 2 clamps and hoses on the right side of air box.



Remove IAT sensor and 1 hose on left side. Also loosen the clamp on the intake hose. Loosen the other intake hose clamp on the other side.



Remove the clamp and hose on the back of the air box. Next loosen the 4 clamps that hold the air box to the throttle body intakes. I only have 2 of the clamps highlighted in the pic but you should be able to find the other 2. After they are loosened you can lift the air box off and place it to the side.



After that is off, it wouldn't be a bad idea to place clean rags over the throttle bodies. Next snip the 2 zip ties that hold the wires to the plastic heat shield. Then remove the heat shield itself. I found this to be the hardest part of the whole job......I hate that heat shield.



Once that is out put the wires outta your way as much as possible. Then remove the 4 wire connectors on each coil marked in red. And then you can remove the coils marked in blue. The pic only shows 3 but the 4th one is easy to find.



If you are just removing the coils to test them and/or replace them then skip the next step.
If you are removing the spark plugs then use your ratchet,extension,swivel and socket to remove the plugs. it can be a little tricky to get your socket in the spark plug well but its possible with a little work.



Now you can check your plugs or replace with new ones. The gap should be .6 to .7mm.
To check your coils set your multimeter to the ohms scale. Ohms is the one that looks like a horseshoe. If your multimeter as multiple settings for ohms then set it to ohms x 1 scale for primary resistance. Now take the leads and put one on each metal tab at the top of coil and read the value, it should be between .24-.32 ohms.


Now for secondary resistance switch your multimeter to K-ohm scale. Place one lead on a top tab and the other one goes up inside the coil where the spark plug connects at. Read the value it should read between 5.0-6.8 k-ohms.



If you have replaced your plugs then at this point you can reinstall/replace your coils. When you put the heat shield back in you will need 2 zip ties to go around the wires and zip tie it to the heat shield. Now reinstall everything in reverse or removal. Once everything is tightened up turn the key and she if she starts.

I hope this helps. The How-To's have helped me a lot so I wanted to do one myself and hopefully return the favor to someone.
 

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R6 >
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Discussion Starter #2
Important side note: If you are just replacing the air filter you do NOT have to remove all the fuel lines or remove the tank. You can just pivot the tank up and remove the 6 screws and the top of the air box.
 

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pin it to win it
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is removing the tank similar on the 07? I can get the air box off and all that, i just a little iffy on messing with the fuel lines
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Not sure since I haven't worked on an 07, but it's most likely very similar. It should have a fuel supply, fuel return, a connector or 2 and a breather hose or 2. Maybe someone with a Gen3 can chime in.
 

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zomething different
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good write up. one thing i would change though is your advice on the heat shield zip ties. you don't need to cut them. there is a little tab that you lift up that allows you to pull the tie open.

also, while you're in there i recommend removing the AIS and installing some AGG block offs.
 

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what?
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subd
 

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Registered
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great write up. i am trying to remove the spark plugs and i followed the above process. However, i am a bit confused on the actual step of removing the spark plug. after removing the 4 wire connectors, how do i get the socket in to remove the plugs. All i see now is a cap with yellowish top (which is also seen in your pic). does this have to come off before you get to the plug? how do u do that? Thanks for your help
 

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I like bbq sauce on my R6
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i noticed you didn't include anything about anti-seize or electrode gel for the plug/wire connection. Are we not doing this?
 

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Space For Rent
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great write up. i am trying to remove the spark plugs and i followed the above process. However, i am a bit confused on the actual step of removing the spark plug. after removing the 4 wire connectors, how do i get the socket in to remove the plugs. All i see now is a cap with yellowish top (which is also seen in your pic). does this have to come off before you get to the plug? how do u do that? Thanks for your help
Just pull man. I think I had to rotate one of the outside ones to make the connector clear the smog line. Sometimes they can be a real pain in the butt, but it will come free. Also leave one in without touching it and pay attention to how far it sits down compared to the other ones you've replaced because they can be hard to seat correctly.
 

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I like bbq sauce on my R6
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2,146 Posts
wow blast from the past. I remember doing this a few years ago. really helped an idle issue I was having.
 
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