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Hey mate. You read alittle tense about the discussion. I don't mean to offend you. I just cannot find what you are talking about. Feel free to show me. I'm open to learning about it, hence why I asked.

I have been on this bike for a bout 10 track days separated by a long rebuild resulting from being crashed into. No handling related crashes yet, but I'm only running in the fast group locally which is still below the racer group. I suspect the problems you may be alluding to will not present themselves to me until I can actually load the suspension more. I would like to understand why I make changes and do intend to get more professional guidance moving forward when I have the time as suspension guidance is not at our local track I need to go further afield.
Hi.

How did you go?

On a 2008 R6 it comes from factory with 10mm 2 lines above the TC. Some people drop the forks down 1 line if you are running a 190 tyre. And most leave shim in.

06 07 R6 are flush with the TC. The 08+ forks are 10mm longer to give more adjustability.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I haven't changed my shock height and didn't really notice a difference other than better edge grip with the change to 190. Still having compliance issues on the rear, but not as bad as before as I have found some settings that work better.

I'm going fine with the 520mm fork height. For me it is the perfect balance of stability and turn in.

I need to get the bike in to have the suspension rebuilt as I'm pretty close to maxed out on fork preload now to have the stability I need under hard braking and cornering as my speed and ability to use the brakes has started to come back up.
 

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I haven't changed my shock height and didn't really notice a difference other than better edge grip with the change to 190. Still having compliance issues on the rear, but not as bad as before as I have found some settings that work better.

I'm going fine with the 520mm fork height. For me it is the perfect balance of stability and turn in.

I need to get the bike in to have the suspension rebuilt as I'm pretty close to maxed out on fork preload now to have the stability I need under hard braking and cornering as my speed and ability to use the brakes has started to come back up.
Ok cool good luck with it. Have you tried using a 180/60 I hear they work better with the R6 rear wheel? I might try it next.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I have not tried the 180/60. I suspect I may need to make a change with that due to the height change.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
So I had the bike re sprung and re valved. when up to .95 on the front and 10.7 on the rear. The valving on the rear seems to work alot better now with compliance. I feel like I have alot of mechanical grip now. I'm also not getting as much chassis pitch under brakes as I was prior. Minimum corner speeds went up by 20kph. Looking to change back to the Metzlelers next time out and trying the 180/60. Anyone with experience on what that may mean for set up geometry coming from a 190/55? I understand the rear may need 1-2 less clicks slower rebound coming off the Dunlops.
 
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