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Okay guys. I need y’alls help. My buddy and I have been working restlessly to get his bike running. This is the issue. He was riding on the highway and just out of no where it cut out. Took it to the dealership and they thought it was the stator. We replaced that with no luck. Then figured let’s replace RR and battery as well. We did that and still no issue. Check engine light came on and gave error code 60 so we bought and replaced the ECU. The battery can be fully charged to about 12.5 volts after a direct charge and as soon as it’s turned on a reved it will drop to 11.6. We checked the ground and it is fine... please someone give us some advice where to look next.
 

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I'd recommend component testing, and start with the stator. Even though it appears you have completely replaced the charging system one of those components are faulty or a short in between. Test AC voltage from stator, Test DC voltage from rectifier while the bike is running. Keep the battery on a trickle charger
 

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What is the current state of the bike? Is it starting and idling fine but when you ride it itll just die? Is it just turning over but not firing?

Your post leads me to believe you guys are checking the voltage of the battery with the bike running but you didnt make that clear.

Another place to check would be at the killswitch. Check connections/contacts as well as voltage in/out. Its not common for this to be the issue but its another place to look.

I too think you should be verifying all voltages/resistance in/out of each component in your charging system before you throw more parts at it.

The R6 manual has good information on how to test these components and you can find it over on r6messagenet.com.

Also, you might take a peek at the wire loom that runs above the cooling fans. Could have a wire rubbed through there. I had that happen on my '05 when the wire loom clip had broken and the fan rubbed through the insulation on a few wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'd recommend component testing, and start with the stator. Even though it appears you have completely replaced the charging system one of those components are faulty or a short in between. Test AC voltage from stator, Test DC voltage from rectifier while the bike is running. Keep the battery on a trickle charger
gotcha. I’ll give that a go today or tomorrow and see if I can find any issues. Thanks for your response.
 

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What is the current state of the bike? Is it starting and idling fine but when you ride it itll just die? Is it just turning over but not firing?

Your post leads me to believe you guys are checking the voltage of the battery with the bike running but you didnt make that clear.

Another place to check would be at the killswitch. Check connections/contacts as well as voltage in/out. Its not common for this to be the issue but its another place to look.

I too think you should be verifying all voltages/resistance in/out of each component in your charging system before you throw more parts at it.

The R6 manual has good information on how to test these components and you can find it over on r6messagenet.com.

Also, you might take a peek at the wire loom that runs above the cooling fans. Could have a wire rubbed through there. I had that happen on my '05 when the wire loom clip had broken and the fan rubbed through the insulation on a few wires.
Ya so it’ll start fine when the battery has enough charge but the battery will die so quickly because nothing is keeping it charged. It’s also having a slight issue firing when it first starts up. Between 0-2000 rpms it has quite a lag but once you get above that it response pretty quickly.

Yes sir we are checking the battery while the bike is running.

I will go ahead and give the kill switch a look but I really don’t think that it’s that. We’ve got the bike up on stands right now and it’ll run for about a minute or two and then the cluster will have the check engine light come on and then cut off. Then the battery is assumably dead because it won’t start back over after that.

I’ll check out the r6 manual and see if there is any helpful info or tips. Thanks guys.
 

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Make sure the rectifier is working properly if it is then check to see if u dont have anything connect directly any fuses that might have been bridge peopls dont realize that sends direact voltage to whT it might operate making a short when ever turned on
 

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What is the current state of the bike? Is it starting and idling fine but when you ride it itll just die? Is it just turning over but not firing?

Your post leads me to believe you guys are checking the voltage of the battery with the bike running but you didnt make that clear.

Another place to check would be at the killswitch. Check connections/contacts as well as voltage in/out. Its not common for this to be the issue but its another place to look.

I too think you should be verifying all voltages/resistance in/out of each component in your charging system before you throw more parts at it.

The R6 manual has good information on how to test these components and you can find it over on r6messagenet.com.

Also, you might take a peek at the wire loom that runs above the cooling fans. Could have a wire rubbed through there. I had that happen on my '05 when the wire loom clip had broken and the fan rubbed through the insulation on a few wires.
Ya so it’ll start fine when the battery has enough charge but the battery will die so quickly because nothing is keeping it charged. It’s also having a slight issue firing when it first starts up. Between 0-2000 rpms it has quite a lag but once you get above that it response pretty quickly.

Yes sir we are checking the battery while the bike is running.

I will go ahead and give the kill switch a look but I really don’t think that it’s that. We’ve got the bike up on stands right now and it’ll run for about a minute or two and then the cluster will have the check engine light come on and then cut off. Then the battery is assumably dead because it won’t start back over after that.

I’ll check out the r6 manual and see if there is any helpful info or tips. Thanks guys.
You said you replaced the stator, but was this a cheap ebay stator or did the dealership provide you with the stator? The manual has the process to correctly test the stator and what resistance reading you should see from it.

Ebay stators are notorious for failing prematurely. I have seen Ricks electrical components highly recommended on here by a few forum members.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
What is the current state of the bike? Is it starting and idling fine but when you ride it itll just die? Is it just turning over but not firing?

Your post leads me to believe you guys are checking the voltage of the battery with the bike running but you didnt make that clear.

Another place to check would be at the killswitch. Check connections/contacts as well as voltage in/out. Its not common for this to be the issue but its another place to look.

I too think you should be verifying all voltages/resistance in/out of each component in your charging system before you throw more parts at it.

The R6 manual has good information on how to test these components and you can find it over on r6messagenet.com.

Also, you might take a peek at the wire loom that runs above the cooling fans. Could have a wire rubbed through there. I had that happen on my '05 when the wire loom clip had broken and the fan rubbed through the insulation on a few wires.
Ya so it’ll start fine when the battery has enough charge but the battery will die so quickly because nothing is keeping it charged. It’s also having a slight issue firing when it first starts up. Between 0-2000 rpms it has quite a lag but once you get above that it response pretty quickly.

Yes sir we are checking the battery while the bike is running.

I will go ahead and give the kill switch a look but I really don’t think that it’s that. We’ve got the bike up on stands right now and it’ll run for about a minute or two and then the cluster will have the check engine light come on and then cut off. Then the battery is assumably dead because it won’t start back over after that.

I’ll check out the r6 manual and see if there is any helpful info or tips. Thanks guys.
You said you replaced the stator, but was this a cheap ebay stator or did the dealership provide you with the stator? The manual has the process to correctly test the stator and what resistance reading you should see from it.

Ebay stators are notorious for failing prematurely. I have seen Ricks electrical components highly recommended on here by a few forum members.
Ya so the stator wasn’t just a cheap ole one and it did test fine. I tested all 3 wires connected to the stator and no issues at all.
 

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Remove any modifications, such as lights, quick shifters, etcetera.

Voltage drop test your various connections; including grounds. Voltage drop tests are best performed when said wires are at their maximum potential loads.

Batteries that are deeply discharged, often face a shortened lifespan, and may even require immediate replacement if left that way for long periods.
 
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