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NCSportbikes.com
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701 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Snapped the pics as i was doing the work about a month ago and figured i'd put something up...

Tools needed:
Socket Wrench
Spark Plug Socket
Ujoint
6" or 10" socket extension
3" socket extension
Phillips Head Screw Driver
Allen Wrenches (i believe just a 4mm and a 5mm)
Tupperware container or magnetic dish to hold screws/bolts/etc
Pliers
Spark Plug Gapper
4 New Spark Plugs (OEM are NGK CR10EK)

Step 1: Remove the riders seat via the two bolts underneath the back of the seat

Step 2: Remove the side tank fairings. There are two screws you will see once the seat is off then just slide them forward.

Step 3: Remove the tank. There is one bolt at the top right behind the triple tree, two on the sides, and one at the back that the tank will hinge on so you can lift it up without removing it. Like so...

I'd reccomend leaving the back screw in until you prop the tank up like that and disconnect everything running from the tank. Be sure to put a rag underneath the fuel line because when you disconnect it there will be residual fuel that will leak. Disconnecting the lines is pretty self explanatory so i didnt take any pics of it. Everything only has one place it can connect to so you shouldnt have any problems figuring it out...

Step 4: Remove the upper half of the airbox. There are a decent number of screws around the outside edge that have to be removed, then disconnect the fuel line (use your rag again, theres lots more residual fuel on this end). I just let the top half hang off the side once it was removed...

This reveals the air filter and the velocity stacks.

Step 5: Remove the velocity stacks. There are six bolts (circled in red) that need to be removed in order to remove the stacks.


Once those bolts are removed lift up on the stacks and rotate them upside down so you can disconnect this...


Step 6: Remove the air filter. Pull up on the two tabs circled in red and the air filter pops out.


underneath the air filter there is a pop rivet that holds the lower half of the air box down and the intake solenoid in place. Remove it and push the little metal piece out of the slot.


Step 7: Removing the lower half of the air box. Lift up on the right side of the airbox and using a pair of pliers disconnect the rubber hose that connects to the lower half of the airbox. This hose connects to the intake solenoid. The hose is circled in red and the place it connects to the airbox is circled in blue.


Step 8: Stuff paper towel or tape over the holes so you cant drop anything in them.


Step 9: Remove the intake solenoid by disconnecting the blue plug (circled in red) and using pliers to loosen the clips and pull the hoses off. Its a pain in the ass to get it off, but just move the clips up over the elbow and pull hard.


heres the intake solenoid removed...


Step 10: Removing the ignition coils. The coils are circled in red and the plugs are circled in blue. There are 4 total, but the two on the outside are hard to see with a camera. Disconnect the plugs, then twist and pull at the same time on the ignition coils themselves. Theyre also a giant pain in the ass to remove, so just keep twisting and pulling.


Step 11: Remove the old spark plugs, and inspect them.



Step 12: Either clean the old plugs check the gap and re-install, or set the gap on your new plugs and re-install.
Step 13: Put everything back together and go ride!

 

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R stands for RaceBike
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9,022 Posts
how many mile did you have one these plugs?
 

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Premium Member
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11,269 Posts
nice! just a heads up, you don't need to remove the stacks and filter. just undo the 6 bolts and the whole bottom half will move outta your way.
 

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09 r6 team blue
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850 Posts
A+ good job.. glad you put this up so now i dont have to waste my time trying. i can save the Frustration and take it to someone who knows what they are doing.. to much work for me i would have fudged that one up royally.
 

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NCSportbikes.com
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701 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
how many mile did you have one these plugs?
About 10,500. I was just going to take it in at 16,000 like the dealer told me I had to, then I looked in the manual and it says to change them at 8,000 or once a year and decided I wasn't taking my bike somewhere that couldn't even tell me the proper service interval and I could figure it out myself... Lol

Thanks for the props, it was fairly easy once I figured out how to get the intake solenoid off. It stumped me the first time so I put it all back together and went riding instead and tried again a week later:dunce:
 

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Official Noob Greeter
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55,856 Posts
Got my plugs... Is the ujoint absolutely necessary?
 

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NCSportbikes.com
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701 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Got my plugs... Is the ujoint absolutely necessary?
You can probably get through it without it, but it's going to be a giant pain in the ass, and you'll probably draw blood from your knuckles, it's pretty tight in there... (that's what she said) I tried it at first without it and it sucked so I drove to auto zone and grabbed a $3 ujoint out if their bargain tools bins at the counter.
 

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Official Noob Greeter
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55,856 Posts
Understood. Maybe I can just rent an Asian....
 

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Beats me...
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46 Posts
nice! just a heads up, you don't need to remove the stacks and filter. just undo the 6 bolts and the whole bottom half will move outta your way.
Yea i didnt remove the stacks either, have an 08 r6s but its the same I think.
Still had to unhook the hoses but other than that just pull the airbox and you should be good.
 

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My R6 beats me
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1 Posts
Just joined the forum. Second season riding, so I decided to rip my bike open change spark plugs and whatnot. This write-up is awesome. I didn't bother removing the velocity stacks though. After I removed the metal tab that holds the lower part of the air filter I just worked around it.
 

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Race Nerd
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3 Posts
Hi all, I changed my spark plugs and certain that I over tightened them (I was doing it for the first time and didn't do my homework). Should I now remove them and put new ones in ? I rode about 100 miles after this and the bike runs fine. Thanks much.
 

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Registered
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2,893 Posts
Spark plugs should be tightened to 9.4 ft-lbs, using a torque wrench.

Any plug going into an aluminum head should have anti-seize on them as well.
 

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Touchdown!
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1,410 Posts
Perfect. I'm finishing up my spark plug job next weekend.
 

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351 Posts
we just did the plugs on my 08. the body is off which makes it a bit easier, the throttle side plug i ended up using an extension with a tapered end and sliding it in through the outside of the frame near the rad and getting the plug out that way, the clutch side we ended up using a swivel on an extension. there just wasnt any other way to do it without risking the removal of skin or a lot of extra and unnecessary swearing. in the end though it wasnt as bad as people had said it was
 

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1,992 Posts
Nice write up and pictures, will be doing the same on my 07 if I get a day where its not freezing outside. Cant imagine this being fun with frozen fingers.

Thanks.
 
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