Yamaha R6 Forum: YZF-R6 Forums banner

21 - 40 of 42 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
222 Posts
Man your bike is a mess :) Does the blue hi beam LED indicator follow the switch properly ie lites when the switch is highbeam, off when low? For that matter, what about the tail/brake lights, front marker lights, console lights.

Not sure how its possible the headlights can even be hooked up backwards unless somebody has been messing about moving wires in the molex connectors.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
Yes it is a mess lol here’s what it looked like when I first got my hands on it (picture attached)

Well, the blue light works for the high beams, it’s dim on low beams and comes on full when high beams come on (when the headlights themselves are lit up high beam or low beam, not what the handle bar symbol is) other than that, the neutral light, turn signal light, and low gas light work as they should. All turn signals and that brake lights work normal as well assuming the bike has the proper voltage, which lately it hasn’t
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
222 Posts
Suggest tracing the high/low switch leads back to the mating molex connectors which link it to the harness. Its a 6 wire connector like this;


Follow the Yellow,Green wires, look through the mated connector and ensure they connect up to White(yellow stripe) and White (green stripe), respectively. LThose wires lead to the high/low beam relays. At that point the White(yellow) should share the connector with solid Yellow, and White(green) should share its connector with Green.

Looking for colors to match up as per the svc manual, to see if anything has been cut/spliced/hacked/jumpered.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
Okay, so then assuming something was cut, jumped, hacked, that could lead to a problem like I’m having?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
222 Posts
Maybe? Looking for causes in the chaos. From looking at the schematics, the only thing that should get the high and low beams on together is the "pass button" which temporarily turns high's on while the low's are on. Normally, from looking at the schematic, highs and lows are not on simultaneously. If you're seeing both on continuously, I would not be surprised if the headlight ground is running overcurrent and getting hot. Yamaha defintitely made the harness wiring as small as they could get away with.

The high/low signaling to the relay and from the relay to the lamps run through molex connectors that look to be prevented from being misconnected by pin count and incompatible connectors- so its unlikely they are mis-mated. OTOH if someone was in trying to fix something and messing around cutting and splicing, or moving wires around in the connectors then heaven knows whats going on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
Yea and the pass button doesn’t even exist on my bike, I could have different handle bar controls that what was on it the day it rolled off the line and maybe whoever wired the new ones on messed things up like you said
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
Looking at the molex connectors, the striped wires match up with the corresponding solid colored wires.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
I opened up the control cluster and both solid wires (green, yellow) are there and look good
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #30
I did not cut the covering off of the wiring harness in between the control cluster and molex connector to check wires through there though
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
After more investigating, back to the original five wires, I have a second wire at ab 15 volts, it looks like it goes to the radiator fan and runs towards the molex connector this wire does not get hot though
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
I tried to see if starting the bike with the four wires excluding the headlight ground would fix the problem but this wire gets hot too
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #33
Here’s how the night went with the bike, first off, with the headlights ungrounded my tailight works fine with no problems, proper brightness, everything. Once the headlights are grounded the tailight goes dim and doesn’t work properly. Next I checked the molex connectors like you mentioned, the wires matched up, looked good at the connector and inside the control cluster on the handle bar (did not check in between). With the cluster apart and no changes, with only one headlight grounded, magically the switch in the cluster would match the headlight (low beams on control was low beam on headlight instead of other way around before, high was low low was high). Put the cluster back together and decided to try and test if the bike would properly charge now without the headlights grounded since everything else seemed fine besides the headlights. I tied together the four of 5 grounds from my original discussion starting post, and left out the ground to the headlights, bike starts up, but the wires are all getting hot again. I narrow it down to the rectifier ground or the ground to the tailight area. Both still read 0v. I’m now again at a loss because I have the headlight problem and now more hot wires with no explanation
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
222 Posts
What happens if you reconnect the cluster, but leave out the rectifier's ground?

I think if you have not found any hacked up modifications in the harness then there is no need to cut it open.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #36
So if I connect all grounds besides the rectifier ground then the bike gets the proper voltage to the battery that it should (12.8 at idle and about 14 above 5k rpms) the headlights behind grounded still throws the tailight out of wack
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #37
could I be because the rectifier was touching the frame and the metal body was already grounding it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
222 Posts
Rectifiers on these bikes are a source of trouble- burning the connector because they run hot and so on. Its supposed to ground thru the connector but if the device is blown than I imagine a variety of possibilities exist. Suggest demating the rectifier and repeat the test. We are trying to find the source of your wire heating and deranged behavior of the he lights.

Bearing in mind up above you mentioned that if you connect one of the two headlight grounds, then the headlights function normally. Is it either one, meaning if only 1 of the 2 is connected then the lights work OK, can it be either one?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #39
So I accidentally stumbled upon a headlight clue. With the right one being completely grounded, low beam on the handle bars was low beam for that headlight. Here’s where it gets weird, the left headlight was not grounded but somehow still lit up, but very very dim, if I flipped it to high beam, the left one when out and high beam was still high beam on the handle bars, once I flipped back to low beam, the left would come on again dim, the headlight relay clicked, and then the right headlight went to high beam all without me touching the control on the handle bar. If I grounded the left headlight, the headlights would both be on but backwards to what setting the handle bars had. High was low low was high.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #40
I also had noticed, the wire that went from the control cluster to the molex connectors you mentioned before have a splice in there furthering the idea of that control cluster being after market
 
21 - 40 of 42 Posts
Top