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ah, splices.. great :rolleyes: can you get a pic of the splice ie what wires are involved,.or maybe just tell the colors.. would be good to trace the.spliced wire.. see what kind of trouble is being stirred up
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Sorry I didn’t respond today, had a relative go to the hospital today, all is good though. I was able to get a picture of the splices, all of the colors look like they match up, no weird melting or anything of that nature though.
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lol, oh yeah- forgot. Am on vacation lol... back to the gen1 harness grind :)

Those wire colors look like horn, kill switch, direction signals but the colors are not fully matching. Could you trace the left and right control cluster harnesses back to their molex connectors, see which is which. The high/low pass circuit involves Green, Yellow, White/green, White/yellow wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
After reviewing further I realized those splices are apart of the wires that go to the ignition (key). These are the molex connectors the go to the left handle bar controls, the bottom molex is the headlight portion and all of the wire colors you mentioned above match up correctly. On the blue molex 5/6 wires match. In the picture the top wires closest to the camera, on the left side it is a red wire with a yellow stripe and on the other side that it leads to, it’s blue (or purple, it looks blue, color deficiency is a fantastic thing with my eyes) with a black stripe. The 3rd molex connector not pictured is for the right handle bar controls and all wires match.
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ok, those don't look messed with so I think we need to look elsewhere. The white molex connector is for the headlights, if possible trace the end with the White/green, White/yellow wires to the two relays, the relay with White/Yellow is the high beam, White/Green is low. After the relays, the wires lead to the headlights, back to Yellow and Green.

If its possible, I think it might be helpful to test the relay actuation; meaning hold the low beam relay in your hand, turn on the ignition & feel the click. Switch to high beam and feel if it does anything (it shouldn't but who knows). Test the high beam relay similarly- it should only click on when the high beam is selected. Thinking that it might help to know if the relays are working right or not; is the bizarre headlight behavior associated with them or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
So is this the headlight relay? After looking up online about them this matches the pictures of them. As it sounds to me or as you and everyone else have mentioned there’s a low beam one and a high beam one, yet this is the only one I can find, it’s on the headlight side of the harness (wired near headlights, gauge cluster etc) I’m not sure if it’s low or high, I can’t hear any clicking when changing the switch on the handle bars or feel it change either.
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Wire colors look a bit weird compared to the service manual- should be white/red in there and no idea what black/green is. But I suggest detaching the relay from that connector, see what is affected; eg do the highbeams go off entirely, or is some other function of the bike affected.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
So I haven’t had the bike started (due to wires getting hot still) when I did this just the power was on. When I unplugged this, the low beams quit working, and the high beams still worked. Yet when I ground both headlights so they both work the controls are still reversed (I couldn’t see what happened without the relay because I couldn’t hold all of the wires grounded while flipping the switch
 

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ok, that demonstrates this relay is for low beams, there will be another for the highs. This one also doesn't look messed with, so the high relay is probably fine too. So far the harness is looking like the factory setup, so the light behavior is weird.

Suggest looking at the headlight connectors, left and right should be identical. Might as well check the type of lamp too, make sure its correct.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
I looked at the headlights all of the wires match on both sides as far as where they go in the back of the headlight, inside of that assembly they are all attached and look like good connections.
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Next, I checked the headlight bulbs and they look like this, I’m not confident these are stock, and I’m not sure how to identify them. There is also writing on the housing that holds the bulbs and that is shown as well.
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Lastly, I should have probably mentioned this early facepalm but this is what the connector looks like from the main engine harness to the headlight assembly harness, so far I have not had problems with it, the parts that are melted have been connected by heat shrink connectors instead, but that does not mean there aren’t other problems. The other wires still running through that connector look okay and match each side, but I can get that connector apart to look at the inside connections.
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Headlights look fine but that harness connector is a flipping mess- definitely should spend some time there; a lot of stuff goes thru that connector, most all the controls, headlights, ground, etc. For one thing that red to brown splice looks wrong, but maybe its the camera angle or lighting- every color going thru that connector should stay the same. Suggest a very much closer examination of the wires on that block. Headlight related wires thru that block are White/Yellow and White/Green
 

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Discussion Starter #53
I haven’t had time to look through that plug yet, but that red brown is correct, I think it’s red to red and that’s what gives the speedometer and odometer on the screen. I’m not sure how much I’ll be able to look through that plug, I couldn’t get it apart the last time I tried. Any ideas on how to maybe get it apart? It’s melted in the one corner and I don’t want to mangle what’s left of it
 

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Discussion Starter #54 (Edited)
In the mean time I have started with troubleshooting the lighting system per the service manual and so far all I have been able to test is the light bulbs and the sockets for them. The continuity on my multimeter read 003-004 (no decimal point) for everything I tested. I tried to test the relay but the wires but the diagram for the relay connector in the book did not match what relay I had. When I look up a headlight relay for my bike, the search results that come up all match what I have on my bike. I’m getting the hint thought that my wiring harness is a 01-02 harness as there is one relay for the headlights. According to the parts diagram on Motorsport.com the 99’ headlight relay was actually two relays as shown in the picture (the service manual I found was for a 99’) but on my bike in the headlight relay spot, there is only one relay which matches what is show on the parts diagram for an 01 bike on Motorsport.com also as shown.
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huh, go figure. The service manual I've been working from is definitely '99 then- which my bike is. So at this point it looks like the biggest visible issue is that melted terrible harness connector. That thing could be fused together by whatever happened to it.

Suggest some continuity tests thru that connector block; disconnect the battery, ignition and run off. straighten out 2 small paper clips, wind the end of each around the meter probes, we are making little probe tips. With the meter in resistance, for each of the wires thru that block, poke one of the paperclip probes into one side, and into the other- make sure there is continuity. The idea is the paperclip end is small enough to poke down alongside the wire to the metal portion of the connector. If that connector is melted so that wires are touching or sort-of touching because of scorched insulation I think it would be a good idea probe adjacent wires in melty areas. I think this is not likely to find something but you never know, and a close examination of the block is certainly in order.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
I have found time to work on the bike and I found crossing resistance throughout the plug, if you’d like a diagram of which wires I can draw that up real quick. Most of the wires with crossed connections were getting weak numbers like 800-1000 where good continuity would be 3-4 on the meter
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Yes so after going through the plug, I would say about 60-70% of the wires have some sort of signal to a wire next to it that it shouldn’t. Does this mean a new wiring harness? Or is there a way I can rewire that plug?
 

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New harness would be a full replacement of both ends of it. One possibility (which also sucks) is to continue with the wire-by-wire splicing outside the connector- though I think some care with respect to how the splices are accomplished would be useful; eg soldering wires to the connectors instead of crimping alone eg


there are round variations which might be a better choice, or perhaps more compact- these are similar to those used on the front turn signal/marker lamps




these have solder pre-applied, so you insert the stripped end of wire and apply heat which solders the connector and shrinks the covering- pretty slick... I've not tried them but it does sound nice



There are other variations but these are relatively straightforward- match up the wire colors, being sure that if there are duplicate wire colors you assign connector gender so its clear which wire connects to which- or put numbered tags on the wires eg #1 connects to #1 and so on. THere is also the concern of having enough slack to accomplish it.

Absolutely, definitely, no scotchlock type splices like this, or similar



With some types of these plugs you can remove the wire and connector from the housing itself, put new connectors on and re-use- but this assembly is melted and destroyed so I don't think thats going to work. if you could find a salvage harness which had both ends present, you could cut off the connectors and splice in but that seems a stretch and more work than the wire-by-wire splice above.
 
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