[cjlucas27]

So cut the wires apart and use heat shrink connectors to put them back together? To wire my flush mount turn signals I used connectors that have a male and female side so I could detach them if needed, they weren’t heat shrink, but I’m sure they make them.

 

[gpounce]

Cutting the wires on each side and putting on mating connectors is one method. The alternative is probably a new harness- and a new display unit too. The circular "bullet" style connectors are probably a better idea than the spade terminals, just make sure you get decent ones with a cover, so the connector elements aren't exposed after mating. Up to you what you're comfortable with really, and how much slack is available in the harness wiring. There are other high-density connector systems out there but probably more expensive and bulky once you get to ~20 connectors and capable of reasonably high current- for instance

https://www.ebay.com/itm/15492546-Metri-Pack-150-Header-Series-18-Pin-Connector

 

[cjlucas27]

I believe that there is enough slack in the harness to pull something off like this, my question would be if you were in this situation and you had enough slack, what would you do? I would like to not have to buy a harness if I can avoid it. At this point I’m not sure I really care about resale value, I understand that buy not buying a harness and connecting all of the connectors myself would turn people away due to it being “thrown together”. If I should go with a harness I can I’m just not in a very good money situation at the moment so whatever I can do that will be reliable and hopefully fix problems is what I would like to do

 

[gpounce]

I'd go for the circular bullet connectors, soldered- that horrible melted connector assembly and crimped connections have got to go anyhow. Once all the wires were mated up I'd wrap the bunch in some rubber sheet, secuired with wireties above and below the bundle.

 

[cjlucas27]

Okay, then I’ll give that a try and see what happens, I’ll let you know in a day or two

 

[cjlucas27]

I rewired the plug, there’s supposed to be 18 pairs. I have 17 pairs and one wire with no match, I did one pair at a time to make sure I got all wires matching. The wire comes from the headlight harness side and I believe it is on of the wires 14-17 on the plug. Also, I found heat shrink bullet connectors and used those

 

[cjlucas27]

Gpounce?

 

[gpounce]

oh sorry- didn't know that was a question looking at svc manual- what is the color of your rogue wire? the connector shows 17 wires thru, one omitted and the key.

 

[cjlucas27]

the top picture has the wire coming out of the plug still, this wire is going in from the headlight harness side, the match for it on the other side is melted off and gone. I’m not sure what wire it is on that diagram because judging by the diagram versus the plug, you can see that there’s only a blank spot on the main harness

 

[gpounce]

Man that top connector is confusing.. i could swear there are a few wires in the wrong places and some of the wrong color. The bottom one seems to better match the service manual. The svc manual shows the wire colors matching thru the connector- Red to Red, Brown to Brown and so on. Have you discovered any of your connections change color from one side to the other?

From looking at ebay upper light/speedo harnesses some of the wire colors that are mismatched on yours are the same as on the chassis harness. I wonder if the light/speedo harness is from a different bike, or if someone moved connectors around. The yzf600 and '03 and later R6 connectors are entirely different (at least the ones I checked), but maybe some other yamaha harness used the same connector. But thats just a theory. But at this point it sure looks like the light/speedo harness is not connected properly to the chassis harness; the wire colors should be matching straight thru and yours aren't for some reason. Maybe we could start with a list of the wires that don't match color-for-color thru the bullet connectors you installed?

 

[cjlucas27]

Yea I can do that and I’ll mark which port they went through on the plug on a piece of paper, I marked each pair with the number that corresponds to the port number on the plug. There’s numbers 1-18 on both sides of the plug, the numbers match of course but that doesn’t mean the wires match

 

[cjlucas27]

Before “to” is the main harness, after “to” is the headlight harness
B- Black
Bl- Blue
Br- Brown
W- White
R- Red
Y- Yellow
Gr- Green
Example of stripe: Gr/Y Green wire with Yellow stripe
The numbers go with the plug as shown, left to right is 1-8 on the top and then 9-18 starts under number 1.
1-2-3-4———————5-6-7-8
9-10-11-12-13-14-15-16-17-18

The picture is of the headlight harness side

 

[gpounce]

Wow is that connector a mess. So no wire swapped around but all those mismatched wires are suspect. On the headlight side, do all the wires lead into the plastic loom, or do some go in there and others fly off all over?

I'll continue to study them but some of the colors are on the headlight side are bizarre.. a couple on the headlight side are using colors from completely different circuits on the chassis side. The headlights are certainly involved, and a number of signals to the ECU. Maybe the next step is see if you can trace wires on the headlight side of the harness, see if they all go to the display unit, lights etc or do they lead back into the chassis.

I'm still confused by the headlight relay situation- there are a number of details here and above which don't match the gen1 service manual, but the connector seems to be the right one. Do you have any information about the display unit eg is it the original one- is it a factory model and so on?

There are some indications that the display unit is Australian and the harness is US/European...

 

[cjlucas27]

There were only two or three wires that went around the plug, those I’m assuming were the few wires on the end of the plug that melted. All of the wires on the headlight harness side route to somewhere in the headlight assembly. That plug is the only route back to the chassis there’s no other bunch of wires. I’m not sure if the cluster is original, one hint that might tell if it is aftermarket is the backlight of the screen is blue. The stock one might have a yellow backlight or something along those lines, also, the tach needle reads 3k high. When the key is on and the engine is off the needle rises to 3k and sits. So I’m assuming this may be some aftermarket cluster as I’m sure these clues are unusual compared to a stock cluster

 

[gpounce]

Is there any manufacturer info; name, model, serial # etc- anything that might help identify it?

 

[cjlucas27]

There’s no name, number, anything on it, other than a 21 in white or a clear sticker saying Japan on it. Besides that, I took pictures of the colored wires leading into it as maybe that would be some sort of help, the first is the top, the second is the unit flipped over to show the bottom. No melting or anything it’s perfectly fine, just wanted to document it for info to use.

 

[gpounce]

Ah, those pics very helpful- I think we can check off a couple of the mismatched wires- though the colors don't match they go to the right places; Here is your pic that I edited to include the guide;




#2 - highbeam indicator light (Black/Yellow should be Yellow)
#13 - oil level relay signal (Black/Red should be Red/Blue)


And some stuff that needs further study, please don't change any of these yet tho unless you figure something out

#4 and #6 - I think brown on the display end probably needs to go to brown on the chassis end. Blue is the display unit backlight and looks like its involved with the wire position issue in #7.
#7 - Red/Green in the display unit end should lead either to a Red/Green in the chassis, or a Red (this is the Australian reference. US/European chassis harnesses put Red there, Australians Red/Green). I have to look into this one further, it looks like positions in the connector change also. I'm inclined to think this could be a candidate for the overheating issue because the chassis end of this wire goes right thru a fuse to +12.
#10 - this might be the basis of the high/low beam madness- this is the low beam signal, but here is going into Yellow which is high beam power- pretty sure this is wrong