Reconfirm the colors for #4 on both sides, as you connected them.
For #7, this is the Red/Green wire on the display connector with no match. The service manual shows this connecting to a Red on the chassis end- but we don't want to disconnect existing wires to do it. If the #4 has a chassis Red and its connected to the wrong display wire that might be a candidate but pls don't make that connection yet- I don't understand what colors are on #4 at present.
So to confirm what the #4 connection is,(picture 1) the blue wire (headlight side) feeds the daytime running like function for the left and right turn signals (I don’t use them I have flushmount signals that don’t use them) and it also runs to the blue wire in the bottom most left portion of the plug that goes into the display. (Picture 2)
I know these are heatshrink I just haven’t shrunk them yet
But your chart shows #6 as brown to brown. Do you have two brown wires on the chassis side? Brown is a little funny- on the display side Brown and Blue lead to the chassis brown.
I think that leaves us with;
#7 Red/Green on display harness has no connection on the chassis harness. The service manual shows it going to a red, but AFAICT its backup power to the display if one of the other fuses blows so we can probably leave it as-is for the moment.
I suggest a brief power-up, see if you still have the wire heating problem or if we've made progress. Probably would be good to try and notice what may be different in general...
The #4 wire on the chassis side is red. Is there anything I should change before I try to start it up? We haven’t really changed any wires over to anything different other than new terminals which I confirmed didn’t stop the wire heating problem
1. do you have two browns; your table shows #6 is brown to brown, and #4 is listed as brown to blue. Is this the case?
2. For the Red/Green wire from the display, is it still unpaired? If yes, then there is a wire missing on the chassis side then we should find it- thats a fused power wire and shouldn't be loose. For that matter, have you checked fuse values?
Man the customized wiring never stops on your bike lol.
fuses should look like this; upper left 7.5 and 20, and rightmost 15 are spares.
The 15a in your block next to the empty space should be 7.5a. I am assuming the inline 7.5a fuse is taking the place of the empty slot, which is for the radiator fan. Would be good to see if you can trace the inline 7.5a fuse to something- and was the fan working on your bike?
We both have too small a fuse in the signalling slot, service manual shows 20a- its been a while since I've been in my fuse block, going to replace that 10a.... Note on the right of my pic is the starting relay, it should have a 30amp fuse and one 30a spare under the two covers.
The 7.5 amp alone runs up to the ignition where you put the key in. Is it okay that I have bigger fuses than the ones you have or is that something that can cause problems? Also, my starting relay does have 30 amp fuses. My radiator fan does work as well
the 15amp next to the empty slot should be 7.5amp, its for the radiator fan. the empty slot is for the "backup" fuse, should be 7.5a, I'm guessing thats superseded by the in-line fuse. If so, it should join a red wire at some point. That seems to be backup power to the display if the signalling fuse blows. Other than the 15a which should be 7.5a the fuse values look reasonable.
Assuming the inline fuse is the backup fuse, one end should lead to a red, which ends up going to the display. The other end shares a connection to the ignition key, the rectifier/regulator, and to the 30amp fuse in the starter solenoid.
So I think we've proven out the display harness mate; all the leads make sense so the short isn't there. I think the next move is to start digging into the chassis harness.. could be damaged insulation on a wire in there. Something melted the harness connector- can't say if thats causation or correlation so more detective work is needed. If it was my bike I'd start at ground leads and work into the harness from there, cutting the jacket and examining wires as I went.
The fuses should get straightened out at some point, but maybe after the short thats heating up your ground wires is figured out and fixed.
I ran through the majority of the harness near the beginning of our thread, I have opened up everything from the headlights through the big plug all the way back to about 8 inches from the battery, ecu, fuses etc and I haven’t found much of anything out of the ordinary. Should I continue into around the ecu and fuses?
Since the bike did run for you, the ecu is probably OK. I wonder if we're looking for the wrong things. Do you have any measurements or information about the rectifier/regulator; what is the condition of its connector and wires- meaning any of them showing signs of burning or everheating- they are a bit of a problem on gen1 bikes. Might be a good test will be to disconnect the rectifier/regulator, then turn on the lights etc to see if there is still a wire overheat.
Yea I can try that, when I first replaced the stator the rectifier plug was melted so I replaced the rectifier and rewired the plug with spade connectors. So you are saying run the bike (engine on) and try to use the headlights with the rectifier unplugged?