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First time posting!! so here is my 2006 Yamaha R6 with 32k miles!
I've had it for a couple months now and have put maybe close to 250 miles on it already. It is my first bike and I have to say from the first day I jumped on it I felt very comfortable, absolutely love it!! Here's what I'm having issues with. I have a repair manual on the way so I will be updating the post with more info down the line.

-I installed a Dynojet PCV with no other attachments e.g. quickshifter/autotune.
-Bike has a two brothers slip on and what looks to be like a cat delete. I've seen pictures of the oem exhaust and i believe they have a catalytic converter towards the front of the engine.
-I have no dash lights but a couple of error codes when I run the on board diagnostics
those error codes are (Code:11 Code:30 Code 19 Code 23 and Code 14)
-I have dropped the bike already while walking it out of the driveway, misjudged where the kickstand was going to land and it tipped over slowly digging into some dirt!

11 - No normal signals are received from the cylinder identification sensor when the engine is started or while the vehicle is being driven.

30 - Latch up detected. No normal signal is received from the lean angle sensor.

19 - Open circuit is detected in the input lead from the side stand switch to the ECU.

23 - Atmospheric pressure sensor: open or short circuit detected.

14 - Intake air pressure sensor: hose system malfunction (clogged or detached hose.)

Some things I have done:
So here's where I think I'm going to get a lot of my answers from.
I'm 90% sure I went over the error codes before installing the PC5 however I didn't record anything like I should have but from what I can remember there was 2-3 codes at the most. One of them being the code 19 about the side stand, which from what I've read is a common issue with this generation.

The day after I dropped the bike I ran the codes again and I noticed there was another code which is the code 30 about the lean angle sensor. Do these need to be reset somehow or replaced after each drop? or is this something entirely different?

I'm not big into electrical work.. testing voltages on sensors which is what I think needs to happen here instead of just replacing stuff which I'm sure can just turn out to be a waste of money and not even be the issue in the first place.

One more important thing to note is the previous owner had taken the bike in for maintenance at a dealer nearby. I checked over the paperwork and it all looked legit. They didn't give any other recommendations but for the valve clearances to be adjusted. The work was done and a couple of weeks later the bike was taken in again because it wasn't running right. They suggested syncing the throttle bodies to correct the issue. I believe it was just running poorly and the rpms were unstable.

Basically I never got a chance to sync the throttle bodies before installing the PCV which I think was a mistake. Before diving under the tank again which I actually don't mind doing, I'd like to hear what you guys have to say to sort of get a list of priorities to really go about fixing some of these things.

I've done the water test on the headers and I found out the first cylinder wasn't firing. I replaced the coil that was bad and that fixed the majority of the issues. The other one being just a light ticking at idle which I guess is normal on all Yamahas. It's a very light ticking which has since gotten quieter. Could of been the oil change or maybe the manual cam chain tensioner which I also installed on the bike. I would also imagine the dealer would of took note of the cam chain and tensioner tolerances. Does the cam chain have a long life span or is it recommended that they be replaced after x amount of miles. I went ahead and replaced it because that's where I thought the ticking was coming from. I don't think that was the case.

I got a chance to run the bike with the tank tilted up when I tried to adjust the throttle bodies with the PCV on the bike and put my finger on the fuel rail. There's a part in the center that looks like some kind of regulator that's gold in color. I don't know if that can be replaced separately but I felt and heard the same ticking I mentioned earlier. I'm not saying that part is the culprit but maybe it's a sign of something very close to there that's going out or needs replacing. I picked up some regular amazon gauges. I was planning on adjusting them all to the 3rd cylinder with the white mark. If I remember correctly, the throttle bodies were all very close to each other even though I completely closed one or two of the adjustment screws to try and count the number of turns. There's no way I got lucky and put them all back to where they first were. I didn't touch the base cylinder with the white mark, either way I think the rough idle it was having went away after the PCV install. However I did catch a rubber end cap under the adjustment screws that had a tear in the rubber hose end cap. I replaced that right away so its possible that was part of my issue.

I can't think of anymore to say at the moment.
I've done everything listed above and the following.
-Oil
-Oil filter
-Coolant flush
-Spark plugs
-One ignition coil (I'm sure the rest are on their way out)
-Couple cosmetic/convenience mods (usb charger, gear indicator, heated grips)

Things I plan to do.
-Replace the damaged swingarm behind the exhaust hard to see. Just waiting for the socket in the mail to get it off. Will have to figure out how I'm going to support the rear end of the bike. I'll have to pull the plastics off, support and cushion the oil pan somehow. I think I've seen people sticking rods through some of the bolt holes and then using jack stands.
-Test for vacuum leaks.
-If I can get most of this stuff sorted out I have a vortex 520 chain and sprocket kit ready to be installed.

Overall the bike runs great and pulls very hard. Even though I've never been on any other bike before I can say the power feels very smooth all the way up in the rpms. There are no hesitations under load/vibrations or odd noises, it really just wants to go! It idles around 1500 rpms or so which is a lot better than before. I had the wrong map loaded on the PCV at first. I figured since it didn't have the cat I would try the full exhaust fuel map. ended up burning a ton of gas very quickly.

TLDR: Should I unplug the PCV temporarily drive it for a few miles and see if any of the error codes go away?
Should I try to adjust the throttle bodies without the PCV, I loaded the right map with the slip on that's on the bike, would it make a difference?
I hope a lot of what's going on is either attributed to the PCV or just a couple sensors that just need to be replaced.

Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated. I'm located near the Seattle area! If anyone has an R6 from this generation I could ride side by side just to compare, that would be nice. Thanks in advance!!

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First thing to do is reset the error codes! Go into diag mode .. select no 63 which should be ur stored codes.. flip killswitch on n off to reset code history.

Take the bike fora ride and check error codes again
 

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First thing to do is reset the error codes! Go into diag mode .. select no 63 which should be ur stored codes.. flip killswitch on n off to reset code history.

Take the bike fora ride and check error codes again
Thanks! taking it out today.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
First thing to do is reset the error codes! Go into diag mode .. select no 63 which should be ur stored codes.. flip killswitch on n off to reset code history.

Take the bike fora ride and check error codes again
No error codes! did about 40+ miles. Thanks brother!
 
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