[RadRocker]

Hi!
I have trouble keeping the battery charged on my R6 from 2006 rj11 model. It charges fine 14V @5000rpm as it should and I never have trouble when riding it the battery always stays at over 12,7V often as high as ≈ 12,8-12,9V or more. But if I let it stand for a day or 2 the battery discharges so the bike almost wont start. After 2 days the bike is down to ≈ 12.6V and If I leave it for longer its dead and it dosent have enough juice tho turn over the engine fast enough to start and I have to jumpstart it. I have noticed a parasitic draw of 14mA through the backup fuse that leads to the odometrer. The parasitic draw is initially 20mA and then goes down to 14mA almost instantaneously.

14mA may not be that much but I havent been able to find any specification on what parasitic draw should be acceptable according to the workshop manual but everyone I have spoken to says thet thier other japanese bikes from the same era draws almost nothing.

As I dont have any room to do bigger jobs on the bike right now I might aswell ask here if you guys know what might be up with my bike?

Edit: Battery is brand new. Havent tested it but as I do have excessive parasitic draw I think its fine. I havent let it discharge deeply. Lowest its been at is 12.6V And I also learned that that according tho the circuit dagram of one workshop manual it says that the spare fuse also goes to the immobilizer unit but In the other it dosent. One says for YZFR6V(C) and the other YZFR6(V) dont know what to look at.

Thanks!

 

[Kevap]

(C) stands for California version, they have extra emissions equipment on them. So you want the YZFR6V. You say it's a backup fuse? Do you mean a spare fuse? Where is this fuse located? Fuse box or someplace else? What happens if you pull it, will the bike start and run?

 

[RadRocker]

Havent tried starting it while the fuse is out. The fuse is located under the seat where there are 3 diffrent fuses. One spare fuse, One that says ETV electronic throttle valve? And then there is this one labeld Backup.

 

[Raf]

Hi!
I have trouble keeping the battery charged on my R6 from 2006 rj11 model. It charges fine 14V @5000rpm as it should and I never have trouble when riding it the battery always stays at over 12,7V often as high as ≈ 12,8-12,9V or more. But if I let it stand for a day or 2 the battery discharges so the bike almost wont start. After 2 days the bike is down to ≈ 12.6V and If I leave it for longer its dead and it dosent have enough juice tho turn over the engine fast enough to start and I have to jumpstart it. I have noticed a parasitic draw of 14mA through the backup fuse that leads to the odometrer. The parasitic draw is initially 20mA and then goes down to 14mA almost instantaneously.

14mA may not be that much but I havent been able to find any specification on what parasitic draw should be acceptable according to the workshop manual but everyone I have spoken to says thet thier other japanese bikes from the same era draws almost nothing.

As I dont have any room to do bigger jobs on the bike right now I might aswell ask here if you guys know what might be up with my bike?

Edit: Battery is brand new. Havent tested it but as I do have excessive parasitic draw I think its fine. I havent let it discharge deeply. Lowest its been at is 12.6V And I also learned that that according tho the circuit dagram of one workshop manual it says that the spare fuse also goes to the immobilizer unit but In the other it dosent. One says for YZFR6V(C) and the other YZFR6(V) dont know what to look at.

Thanks!

Hello mate, I had the exact same issue with my 2003 R6. It took me months to figure out what is going on. I had 18 mA draw from my battery through the backup fuse when the bike was parked and everything off. Your bike should only draw about 3.3 mA if your battery has 8 Ah so your draw seems low in number but it's actually huge and will kill your battery eventually.

I see your bike is more likely an EU model which has an immobilizer fitted.

What I found on my bike was an immobilizer bypass - a device you can buy on eBay if you lost all your keys to start the bike up

There are two ways of sorting this out.

1. Contact Yamaha dealer for new ignition, keys, ecu. - very expensive
2. Fit a battery isolator similar to mine, I also installed a small voltage indicator but you don't have to. I have attached a very simple drawing I made.

Every time you stop riding your bike simply switch the isolator and that will prevent your battery from being drawn. I fitted this isolator underneath the passenger seat. Make sure the negative wire you use is thick enough. You will never experience this issue again!

 

[RadRocker]

Thank tou for your reply! As the question before what happens if I take the fuse out, the bike simply wont start as if the immobilizer didint find the key. The cluster starts and the engine cranks but wont start. The temp gauge shows hi when the fuse is out. The battery is brand new and verified in good condition by two separate battery testers.

since the current can only go through two ways im going to start pulling contacts to the immobilizer and cluster to se where it goes. I have noticed that the immobilizer light never goes on either when the ignition is turned on or when the bike is off. Is there a way to verify immobilizer function to see if its only the led thats broken?

 

[Intuit]

Hello mate, I had the exact same issue with my 2003 R6. It took me months to figure out what is going on. I had 18 mA draw from my battery through the backup fuse when the bike was parked and everything off. Your bike should only draw about 3.3 mA if your battery has 8 Ah so your draw seems low in number but it's actually huge and will kill your battery eventually.

I see your bike is more likely an EU model which has an immobilizer fitted.

What I found on my bike was an immobilizer bypass - a device you can buy on eBay if you lost all your keys to start the bike up

View attachment 378775


View attachment 378776


There are two ways of sorting this out.

1. Contact Yamaha dealer for new ignition, keys, ecu. - very expensive
2. Fit a battery isolator similar to mine, I also installed a small voltage indicator but you don't have to. I have attached a very simple drawing I made.

Every time you stop riding your bike simply switch the isolator and that will prevent your battery from being drawn. I fitted this isolator underneath the passenger seat. Make sure the negative wire you use is thick enough. You will never experience this issue again!


View attachment 378777

Instead of using a manual switch, use a relay.
I had tied the coil side of my relay in with the turn-signal relay, which is only powered with ignition on.
Because I was running accessories, a better idea for my purposes, would've been to tie it in with the headlight relay instead.

HOW TO: Relay that SAE Terminal

I'm adding a USB Charger to power my GPS for longer trips. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N7CHYCF/ https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N1993MV/ Amazon.com: Techmount 4-10105 - Universal Motorcycle Fork Stem Mount Kit - This is a Mount only and Does not Come with a Cradle to Hold Your...

www.r6-forum.com

So the idea is, run the wire from the backup fuse through that relay, which only activates with ignition on.
BTW, the backup fuse feeds the ECU. So the clock, would be reset with ignition off; possibly other custom settings like dimmer, shift-light, stored trouble codes, etc.

 

[Raf]

Thank tou for your reply! As the question before what happens if I take the fuse out, the bike simply wont start as if the immobilizer didint find the key. The cluster starts and the engine cranks but wont start. The temp gauge shows hi when the fuse is out. The battery is brand new and verified in good condition by two separate battery testers.

since the current can only go through two ways im going to start pulling contacts to the immobilizer and cluster to se where it goes. I have noticed that the immobilizer light never goes on either when the ignition is turned on or when the bike is off. Is there a way to verify immobilizer function to see if its only the led thats broken?

If you take back up fuse out, bike won't start. If you disconnect immobiliser bypass bike won't start.

I never had immobilizer light on because wire for LED (green) is disconnect prior to fit bypass device.

My bike was salvaged (first ever bike I bought). I found it after purchase

Your one could be same or it has been stolen that's why immobilizer is bypassed.

There is nothing you can do except replacing ignition+ecu or isolating battery every time before turning bike off.

 

[RadRocker]

Did some more digging and found this... quite sad right now.

 

[Raf]

Did some more digging and found this... quite sad right now.
View attachment 378780

Heads up, on bike like this you will gain lots of experience in fault finding and maintenance. Your next bike when you buy will be without any issue due to your experience!

 

[Intuit]

If you take back up fuse out, bike won't start. If you disconnect immobiliser bypass bike won't start.

With regard to the relay alterative I mentioned, the relay activates when when the ignition is turned on. This means your backup fuse is powered before you get a chance to hit the start button.

Heads up, on bike like this you will gain lots of experience in fault finding and maintenance. Your next bike when you buy will be without any issue due to your experience!

Unfortunately most bikes are DIY "maintained" instead of professional. (I use the word "maintain" loosely because more often than not, they're messing something up! 😄)

Good posts; I especially like the details regarding appropriate parasitic draw specs. 😎👍

 

[RadRocker]

To clear things up there is a very high change that there is a immobilizer emulator chip behind all that epoxy. That is probably whats causing the drain. There is no draw when the immobilizer is disconected.

 

[Raf]

With regard to the relay alterative I mentioned, the relay activates when when the ignition is turned on. This means your backup fuse is powered before you get a chance to hit the start button.


Unfortunately most bikes are DIY "maintained" instead of professional. (I use the word "maintain" loosely because more often than not, they're messing something up! 😄)

Good posts; I especially like the details regarding appropriate parasitic draw specs. 😎👍

Like you said back up fuse goes through clock, ECU and this immobiliser chip. If you install relay that is going to stop drawing battery while bike is off but also might reset trouble codes on clock everytime?

 

[Intuit]

............... ............................ . . ...... might reset trouble codes ....... everytime?

Dunno. Easy enough to test. Unplug a sensor to set a code. Fuse power intact, verify it's stored after ignition off. Then see if it sticks around after pulling the battery.