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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,
A friend from another forum is having trouble with her 2007 R6 clutch (YES, I ALREADY TOLD HER TOGTFO). Any of you crazy bastards have any ideas on what may be causing the issue.

I already discussed with her the setup of the clutch arm, and how to properly adjust the lower cable adjuster and then lever freeplay.

Thanks hoarbags.

PS: Sorry I dont have the pics mentioned. :idhitit

MistressofMayhem said:
So some time in the past (right about the time the R6 died and spent a couple of years in a coma while I diagnosed the last issue), I noticed that my clutch engagement/disengagement point was almost all the way at the end of the lever range. As a result, my lever free play has always had to be about a half inch which has been extremely annoying and disconcerting. I had often wondered if maybe the clutch was ever fully engaged/disengaged at all. I had been adjusting the cable in both places (at the lever and at the case) but I seem to have reached the limit of adjustability. Last year I replaced the friction plates and the stock ones came out measuring well within spec. The steels (to the best of my measurements) did not appear to be warped, scarred, or bluish and the springs were fine. Since I had already paid for the new plate and spring kit, I went ahead and swapped it out. The issue didn't change at all. So I figured that maybe that's just the way R6's are (I have a few other bikes so it's a little tricky to gauge the nuances of what is normal and what is not). Instead, I elected to alleviate some of the free play by putting on some aftermarket levers. I went with FP Racing because they were affordable.

Once I put the levers on, I readjusted the clutch cable and attempted the test it out by spinning the rear wheel with the bike in first gear on the stand (with the bike turned off). Even with the clutch pulled all the way to the clip-on, the rear wheel won't budge at all if it is in gear. Even more, once the bike is on, with the lever pulled all the way in, the wheel spins like crazy. I can stop it, but it takes a little bit of force.

I've pulled it back apart again and everything looks fine. I dropped the bike from the stand, pulled in the lever and clicked it into first and the bike doesn't seem to stall or crawl with me sitting on it, but now when I start to slip the clutch as I'm rolling on the throttle, I get this weird juddering that doesn't smooth out no matter how smooth I am, or how much I match the throttle with the clutch. This feels much different than the usually stutter it does as the bike is wanting to stall. Does that make sense?

Any ideas? I would just completely give up on it and leave it, but I am afraid that I may be frying my clutch if something it isn't completely functioning.

Thoughts?
somedbag said:
Is the cable in good condition? Are you sure the plates are installed in the correct order and the clutch basket reassembled correctly? Did you soak the new plates in oil before install(you're supposed to)? When you put the clutch cover back on, did you make sure the lever and linkage on the cover is correctly lined up? This last part is likely to cause lever issues. Can you snap a couple pics of the lever and cutch cover area where the cable attaches to, preferably from underneath? There are dots on the little lever and the bottom of the clutch cover that should line up when assembled properly.
MistressofMayhem said:
The cable looks to be in good condition at each end, and there didn't appear to be any kinks or tears when I pulled it off to get to the valves a couple of months ago. Everything went back together fine. The plates went in the right order after I soaked them in oil and I pretty careful to make sure everything went back on the way I pulled it off and according to the manual. But surely something must have been off.

I am not entirely sure what you are referring to with regards to the dots so here are a couple of pics. Let me know if they are sufficient.

I did a track day on the bike yesterday and the juddering was still there no matter what I did. At some points after a session it felt like it was smoothing out, but then I've only got about, what feels like 10mm of friction zone at best.

AND while waiting on the grid to go out, I noticed that if the bike is in neutral and I pull the brake in, the rpms raise slightly. This also happens if the bike is in gear but I've got the clutch lever pulled all the way in. Is that normal?
somedbag said:
From your pics, everything looks normal. The dots I was talking about are actually a dot and an arrow/triangle. If you look at your first pic, there's a dot on the lower lever, which is supposed to be lined up with the arrow on the clutch cover right above it.

One thing to maybe check is detach the cable from that lever(or up at the handle bars) and see if you can line up that dot by pushing that lower lever with just your hand. You should be able to.

This is a tough one for me since I can't feel what it's doing. You saying it's juddering makes me think the clutch is slipping, indicating something is not assembled or adjusted right.

Pulling the brake should have no effect on engine RPM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·


 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Is it me, or do the slipper clutch springs look like they are in upside down? Anyone?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
you fcukers are worthless sometimes. :laugh
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The leg humpers weren't satisfied, what do you expect? :laugh
I expect that this place should try to help out as a favor to me. :laugh
 

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"The Dude abides .. "
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slipper clutch slipper "Y" springs are good.. should measure length of the pressure plate springs she is holding in her hand, but my guess is need to measure the stack height. The outer fiber is offset as it should be, but the teeth still look pretty far down the basket teeth, leading me to belive the stack height is lower than spec, and the clutch is gonna slip. I skimmed through the posts..

i did just notice that the frictions were replaced. There are 3 oem fibers.. i assume the proper paint color is inside (purple paint), 6 middle (black), and 1 outer (brown)? i see pink paint on the outer fiber.. i don't now why it would be pink. maybe it's an 06-07 thing, but they should be same from 06+

and a buddy had the same thing with his. Turned out to be crap aftermarket levers that FELT like you had enough slack, but there wasn't enough slack. The free play you would feel was the pivot, not cable slack.
Try giving the cable MORE free play. Having the rear wheel spin on the stand with the bike in gear is normal. If the bike want's to take off on you when your sitting on it .. that's not good. but try more free play in the lever.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
slipper clutch slipper "Y" springs are good.. should measure length of the pressure plate springs she is holding in her hand, but my guess is need to measure the stack height. The outer fiber is offset as it should be, but the teeth still look pretty far down the basket teeth, leading me to belive the stack height is lower than spec, and the clutch is gonna slip. I skimmed through the posts..
Yeah, she said they looked at the spring length and the individual plates, and I believe that the plates are new.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks Greg, I have provided her the link to the thread and was hoping you would catch this thread. Thanks in advance for your input.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Confirmed, frictions are new, steels are not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
EBC frictions, oem steels it appears.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Steels may be aftermarket though, as she got the bike used and swapped in new frictions but not new steels.
 

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ok.. FOR SURE needs to measure the stack height. 42.4mm - 43mm .. Especially since the steels may be a variety of sizes and brands. Don't let her worry about synthetic oil being a cause either. any quality synth is fine.
The ebc frictions are fine, i have used em. that explains the pink paint.
there are optional metals.. 1.6mm, 2.0mm (standard), and 2.3mm , if ya don't have one of the optional ones, but need to make up a bunch of space, can stack 2 metals together.
 

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I would measure the steel plates, I spent a few days trying to figure out a similar issue when I replaced the friction and steel plates last week. I initially had the two outer (closet to the pressure plate) steel plates thickest. Got the limp cable except for the last few mm's of clutch pull. Then, I swapped one of the thicker ones out with the standard thickness and it got a little better. Ended up using all the standard (2.0 mm) steel plates and it works like it should now.
 

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I would measure the steel plates, I spent a few days trying to figure out a similar issue when I replaced the friction and steel plates last week. I initially had the two outer (closet to the pressure plate) steel plates thickest. Got the limp cable except for the last few mm's of clutch pull. Then, I swapped one of the thicker ones out with the standard thickness and it got a little better. Ended up using all the standard (2.0 mm) steel plates and it works like it should now.
there is a reason they don't give you a min spec measurement for metals. metals don't wear. they can warp, they might turn blue, you might need to have an optional one (or 2) to make up correct stack height, but they don't wear. :)
But ya still need to measure stack height. and do it periodically. If the stack measures in spec, 42.4-43mm, you need to look elsewhere for an issue.
It's possible that ya just needed to move the clutch arm, or adjust the cable at the bracket (two 12mm nuts) if ya can't get it right at the wheel on the clutch perch. Don't discount stack height. ;)
 

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Notching of the basket maybe?
very typical symptom of a notched basket, but the teeth on it look fine in that photo. you can't see very far down, but the first couple of fibers are visible.. and i don't see any notching. pic with fibers out would be better, but you would see it up near the top if it was bad enough to cause the problem. That and you feel the stutter in the lever, as the fiber teeth roll over each notch. this symptom seems to not be felt in the lever.
 
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