[Yamasaki]

Recently bought a 2008 r6 with a hole in the case from a slung rod. I bought a new case, new crankshaft and piston and swapped the engine case out. Ive put the rest of the bike back together, and when i went to go and try to see if she runs yesterday, i turn the ignition and there is nothing. one fan kinda turns on,, very slowly and weak. The gauge cluster hands turned once, but since then absolutely nothing. Also there is no sparking when i try to pop the solenoid. And its hooked up to a charger.

 

[Intuit]

ECU and cluster probably aren't communicating. Not every charger is meant to be connected directly to, and run the vehicle. Get a fresh battery and charge it only after you're done with it, and is disconnected from the vehicle. The fans aren't variable speed; they either work or don't work. SO slow-operation that is pretty curious. Power situation sorted, gotta go back and verify all the connections and wire harnesses. Easy way to get a reading is to poke straight-pins or safety-pins through the wires. (just be sure not to accidentally short any to ground)

 

[Yamasaki]

ECU and cluster probably aren't communicating. Not every charger is meant to be connected directly to, and run the vehicle. Get a fresh battery and charge it only after you're done with it, and is disconnected from the vehicle. The fans aren't variable speed; they either work or don't work. SO slow-operation that is pretty curious. Power situation sorted, gotta go back and verify all the connections and wire harnesses. Easy way to get a reading is to poke straight-pins or safety-pins through the wires. (just be sure not to accidentally short any to ground)

Gotcha, ill get a fresh battery tomorrow. Thank you for the advice. In reference to checking connections, i could just poke the prong of the multimeter into the backside of connector where wires go in couldnt it? or are you talking about using a pin to jump the wires from male to female ends? thanks again

 

[Yamasaki]

okay, so i got my hands on a new battery tonight, and i got the bike to turn on. dsh and lights came up, fans crunk. However there was no prime to the fuel pump and no movement from the actuators .Starter button does nothing, so i try to pop the solenoid, and bike goes completely dead. NO power at all. Short somewhere? bad solenoid? both terminals on solenoid are reading 12.7, as well as all the prongs on the 4 pin that connects to solenoid. So im thining a short somewhere?

 

[Intuit]

VEhicle has a few safety switches.

• Kill switch
• Neutral switch
• Clutch switch
• Kickstand / Sidestand switch

The behavior you described is normal if the kill switch is off. Diagnostic mode lets you test most of these switches; not the clutch and kill is not a specific test but inferred. Some areas it's not convenient/possible to back-probe which is why I mentioned the pin/poke method.

so i try to pop the solenoid,

Not exactly sure what this means but assume you attempted to jump power directly to the starter?

Sounds like you may have inadvertently touched ground.
Check #10 which is the ignition fuse. That powers the circuit.
#8 is the starter motor and #7 the starter relay.
#4 is your main fuse.
#5 is the battery.
#9 is the injection/fuel circuit fuse.

 

[Yamasaki]

Sorry, by pop the solenoid I mean just bridge the two terminals with a screwdriver, pliers, etc. I mean the two terminals on the solenoid, not the battery itself. So I went to go and test the safety switches. I was getting absolutely no power, not a trickle. I'm sitting there what is going on. I take the multi meter and go test the brand new battery, just for the heck of it and the positive terminal on battery has 0 V. Now get this, the negative terminal was energized to 12.7? How did the polarity get reversed? I've got a service manual, and while I'm not a certified mechanic, this is not the first time I've rebuilt a bike from the ground up, but it is my first Yamaha. It is beating my butt like a Cherokee drum.

 

[Intuit]

I've heard of cases where the poles were reversed on a battery by charging it incorrectly.

IT appears the starter-relay coil can be energized by grounding the blue/white wire with the ignition switched on. The red/white wire should have 12v via ignition fuse. Sometimes the ignitions go bad and don't pass on enough of the 12v they receive. That possibility can be easily eliminated. I'd avoid throwing parts at it.

 

[Yamasaki]

so i just put another new battery and new solenoid on and it did the exact same thing. now im looking closer at it...what the hell is this 50A fuse for? This is my firsst yamaha, mostly have had ninjas, and everything runs throught the 30A on the solenoid. I think this is my problem. something running from this 50a is crossing shit up. Can i eliminate it and rewire back through
the 30A?

 

[Intuit]

One thing to note, if you engage the starter, TRIPLE CHECK that it is in neutral with the rear tire off the ground on a bike stand. (double-safety) It will RUN YOU OVER if you're not careful.

Absolutely do not bypass any fuses. The wire can burn a hole through its insulation and then burn away the insulation for adjacent wire(s). THe worse part it is, it'll be buried deep within the tens of feet of bundled wire harness and you'll never locate the (faults). Instead, replace your fuses. Replacements should be available at any auto parts store. Take the originals with you so they can help you match it up. Your volt meter has a "continuity" test mode that will allow you to determine whether the removed fuses are actually bad. NEVER go higher than the rating on the original fuse. This prevents you from overloading the wires. If you have any "Add-A-Circuit" type products, remove them. More often than not, they're improperly installed.

 

[Yamasaki]

One thing to note, if you engage the starter, TRIPLE CHECK that it is in neutral with the rear tire off the ground on a bike stand. (double-safety) It will RUN YOU OVER if you're not careful.

Absolutely do not bypass any fuses. The wire can burn a hole through its insulation and then burn away the insulation for adjacent wire(s). THe worse part it is, it'll be buried deep within the tens of feet of bundled wire harness and you'll never locate the (faults). Instead, replace your fuses. Replacements should be available at any auto parts store. Take the originals with you so they can help you match it up. Your volt meter has a "continuity" test mode that will allow you to determine whether the removed fuses are actually bad. NEVER go higher than the rating on the original fuse. This prevents you from overloading the wires. If you have any "Add-A-Circuit" type products, remove them. More often than not, they're improperly installed.

gotcha, I havent added anythingto the harness, but the PO did have this little add on that im not exactly sure what its for.
the red and yellow is cutand sautered with the green, the harness side of the plug has an inline connector on the blue wire. And the red wire comming out of that connector is going to the two pin with red and brown wires, and is tied into the brown. which i think thats the ignition connector right?
really appreciate your help and knowledge. Thanks

 

[Yamasaki]

man, i am so lost. Im gettting power everywhere, tested the pins on the connectors, but NOTHING is turning on. but all the pins that need to be energized are. what the FUCKK!?!?!?!?!

 

[Intuit]

You're getting power on both sides of every installed fuse, with the negative volt meter connected to negative battery and the positive volt meter connected to a wire before/after the fuse?

 

[Yamasaki]

Okay, so i am getting power now, turns out I was messing up the grounds, I was grounding the negative from the battery to the frame and not the block. So now its all turning on, but no fuel pump prime and still no start. Possibly neutral switch or gear position sensor is what im leaning towards for the no start