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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I recently acquired a 2009 R6 with 80k miles on it. This is a track-only bike. The engine seems to run fine, but I'm not holding my breath with that many miles.
Beyond the regular maintenance, does anyone have experience on what I should do to make sure this thing doesn't pop? Or other maintenance related items I can do to restore performance (I'm not sure if there is any decreased performance)

Also, does anyone have an idea of how these engines typically fail? I.e. spun bearing, blown piston ring, etc. I have experience rebuilding car engines, but never a bike.

Any help would be really appreciated. I don't want this thing to turn into a boat anchor.
 

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80k is respectable! I'm pretty new the the R6, but in general I'd say change the oil after every weekend and do the maintenance. How's the compression?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
remove gas tank, remove airbox, remove spark plugs, screw in compression tester (you can rent these) , and crank the engine with WOT (make sure the other cylinders aren't firing)
 

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IMO, a quick rebuild, refresh and over check up would go a long way to not dumping oil on the track...

Q
 

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LokiR6
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Compression test should be able to reveal the whole health of the motor. As long as it's within the specs on all the 4 cylinders, there should be no concern. Also do check the condition of the coolant just to confirm it doesn't have any blown head gasket.
As a precautionary you could go ahead with replacing the water pump , stator and other accessories.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks guys. Changed the coolant already for winter.
As far a rebuild, is there such a thing as a "quick rebuild"? I'll hopefully have the cylinders compression tested by the end of the week, I'll update with how that turned out.
 

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THe manual contains details on how to tell when it's necessary to replace the drive chain. There are probably similar instructions in the manual for inspecting the timing chain. Obviously, when the chain goes, so does the engine. So it's best to get it, before it gets you. This is not to say that it is a regular issue with these. The engines are pretty stout, and probably what amounts to the overwhelming majority of people end up crashing the bike, before wrecking the engine.
 

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For the timing chain, is it enough to listen for tensioner rattles? I guess in most other engines I know a little about the chain doesn't usually fail but the tensioners and sliders do.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I did a compression test tonight and got some disappointing and confusing results. According to the manual, I should be seeing somewhere between 195-239 PSI, but instead I'm seeing 55-60 PSI - see image below. The bike seemed to have plenty of power when I rode it last, so I found this hard to believe. I tested it with a second compression tester, same exact results.

I did follow instructions in the manual and added some oil to the cylinder and same results. The consistency across all cylinders, and the fact it ran fine leads me to believe something is wrong with my test. Does anyone have any thoughts?



 

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May not have a frame of reference for what qualifies as "plenty" of power if you've not ridden one before. Even when down on power they're still going to be faster than most cars.

Due to the cam overlap, when performing throttle body sync using gauges, it's necessary to use valves. Otherwise your gauge readings are just wild. I'm wondering if the same may be required when doing compression testing.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I’ve raced 3 different r6s in the cmra and won races. This is my 4th R6. I’ve raced 3 different CBR600RRs. I’ve ridden something like twenty different bikes. I know what an r6 is supposed to feel like. It has the power.

I should clarify, I bought this as a track bike and it was just as fast as other 600s on the track. I’ve only rode it once since I picked it up and later discovered how many miles it had when the odometer suddenly started working again.
 

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Have you been able to confirm the readings? Do the readings change when using the same kind of (metal) valves that are employed with a throttle body sync by gauge?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Have you been able to confirm the readings? Do the readings change when using the same kind of (metal) valves that are employed with a throttle body sync by gauge?
Thank for the reply - I'm sorry I don't know what this means.
 
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