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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
UPDATE: Post #6.

Looking to do my first track day in a few weeks, and looking for any advice/tips I can get.

Brief history:
- Purchased bike in 2012, and did some minor cosmetic mods (frame sliders, flush mounts, integrated tail, etc).
- Rode the bike until spring of 2015, and parked it with 5.7K miles. It's sat ever since, only having the first 2 oil changes done.
- 4 years later, and I actually own the bike now, but I never street ride anymore and want to do track days only since I can *somewhat* locally now.

Pic of the bike (from 2015):


The past few weeks I picked up some Pitbull stands, and started going to work.

- Installed Graves Smog Block-off plates, BMC Race Air Filter, Shorai Lithium Battery, Puig Racing windscreen, and Stahlbus oil drain valve
- Replaced spark plugs w/ NGK CR10EK plugs
- Replaced/flushed coolant with water wetter
- Replaced oil and filter w/ Motul 300V 10W40 and K&N filter

Pic I took while working on it:


Was able to actually get it fired up tonight, and seems to be running smooth. No CELs/warnings/etc. Took a quick video of it running: https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOc-n6iJdgHFaeVhGoT_D27-RKf5HiNiR_6JbiXMRTyMAPR95Nzo6rC37bhlRhsBA?key=VW9JazVxZDhCdUZBSWhONGNULURzd3RGNmUwVG9B

Now I'm waiting on some Fren Tubo carbon fiber brake lines to come in, and ordering a set of Q3 Plus tires to put on. Will be using Motul RBF 600 DOT4 brake fluid to flush/replace it.

Hoping to remove the keyswitch and replace with the woodcraft eliminator, as well as replace the gas cap to completely get rid of the need for the key, but I'm not rushing to get that done in time.

I was curious, with this thing sitting for so long, is there anything else I should be checking/doing to make sure this goes well?
 

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Motosylum Racing #132
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The only thing you may want to do first is get rid of the K&N filter. A good number of tracks and track day orgs no longer allow them. They have a tendency to split.
Other than that, ride it.
 

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The only thing you may want to do first is get rid of the K&N filter. A good number of tracks and track day orgs no longer allow them. They have a tendency to split.
Other than that, ride it.
^^^This. Don't ruin your day and everyone else's too.

Also, if you haven't ordered the Q3's yet, you will be happier with Q4's on a track-only bike.
 

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And from a riding/training standpoint, I would suggest working with a track day coach or control rider on some specific riding techniques to ensure that you aren't just circling around with bad habits and making lots of mistakes. Choose one thing at a time to work on each session out so that you have a bit of focus and maybe look into further rider training (I'm a coach with the California Superbike School) so that you can get the fundamentals down pat and practice them each time you hit a track day.

If you have any specific questions about riding skills or techniques for track riding then please feel free to ask! (I love talking about riding stuff :).

On that note, is there one riding technique for track days that you think trumps all others? Is there one skill that should be practiced and mastered first?
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thanks for the tips fellas.

I checked with them beforehand, and they said they don't have any requirements/regulations for this. They literally said, as long as my tires aren't bald and my chain isn't dragging, all i need is a roll of painters tape. :lmao So, I will probably just replace the filter at the next oil change keeping this in mind.

Also, I didn't go with the Q4's because a lot of the reviews said the Q3's would have better mileage. I didn't think I would need the amount of grip that the Q4's offer since I am a complete noob, and opted for the Q3's because of the mileage.

The only thing you may want to do first is get rid of the K&N filter. A good number of tracks and track day orgs no longer allow them. They have a tendency to split.
Other than that, ride it.
^^^This. Don't ruin your day and everyone else's too.

Also, if you haven't ordered the Q3's yet, you will be happier with Q4's on a track-only bike.

Anyways, my first day was *somewhat* of a success. I say this because I made it halfway through, and started having issues with the bike and had to retire, but I still learned how the whole thing operates, rode my first road course and I didn't crash. :fact

First the good... Here are what my brand new tires looked like after only half of the day. Still some little chicken strips, but I plan on getting rid of those next time when i make it through a full day, and hopefully get my first knee down. :grin:



Now the bad... After the first couple sessions, I noticed that my speed in the straights was going down. Then I noticed, no matter what gear, I couldn't rev past 14K, then 12k, then 10K. It just got progressively worse. So, instead of continuing to be a sitting duck in the straights, and potentially causing further damage, I just parked it.

Well, I found out tonight the source of my issues, and have some work cut out for me. Not entirely sure what to do yet, but I am learning as I go. Although, I would greatly appreciate any input from someone that has had this issue before, or what someone would do if they were in this situation.



 

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Motosylum Racing #132
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Damn dude. That sucks!! Was the fuel tank empty while it was sitting??
If that were my tank, I would use it for target practice while surfing the eBay for another one. I have tried using the sealers and scalers but they are only a temporary solution.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Damn dude. That sucks!! Was the fuel tank empty while it was sitting??
If that were my tank, I would use it for target practice while surfing the eBay for another one. I have tried using the sealers and scalers but they are only a temporary solution.
It had like a gallon sitting in it that I siphoned out before refilling. I didn't think about this happening, as I'm learning as I go and all this is completely new to me :dunce: lol

Thanks for the input! I think I'm going to attempt cleaning/sealing this one since the stuff for it isn't expensive. Just seems to be annoying work. Then I'll keep looking for a another one as a backup/replacement. Already pickup up another used fuel pump online.

Only other thing I'm worried/not sure about is how much of this stuff made it past the fuel pump/filter. :confused:
 

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I would pull the valve cover, drain the oil, and inspect things that way first. The oil and the visual under the valve cover will give you an idea. I would also removed all of the fuel injectors and inspect them.
 

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Motosylum Racing #132
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It had like a gallon sitting in it that I siphoned out before refilling. I didn't think about this happening, as I'm learning as I go and all this is completely new to me :dunce: lol

Thanks for the input! I think I'm going to attempt cleaning/sealing this one since the stuff for it isn't expensive. Just seems to be annoying work. Then I'll keep looking for a another one as a backup/replacement. Already pickup up another used fuel pump online.

Only other thing I'm worried/not sure about is how much of this stuff made it past the fuel pump/filter. :confused:
Yeah, it is a live n learn thing man. I either store a tank filled to the brim or for serious long term storage I will empty it and dump a bottle of 2 cycle oil in it and coat the entire inside with it.

I would pull the valve cover, drain the oil, and inspect things that way first. The oil and the visual under the valve cover will give you an idea. I would also removed all of the fuel injectors and inspect them.
Curious why pull the valve cover or drain oil? Any contamination will be on the fuel side. The injectors won't show anything to the naked eye and I doubt anything of note made it past the filter sock. Anything that made it past that should pass the injector orifice. As long as the sock is not damaged. I have had worse tanks that did not hurt the injectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I would pull the valve cover, drain the oil, and inspect things that way first. The oil and the visual under the valve cover will give you an idea. I would also removed all of the fuel injectors and inspect them.
Yeah, it is a live n learn thing man. I either store a tank filled to the brim or for serious long term storage I will empty it and dump a bottle of 2 cycle oil in it and coat the entire inside with it.


Curious why pull the valve cover or drain oil? Any contamination will be on the fuel side. The injectors won't show anything to the naked eye and I doubt anything of note made it past the filter sock. Anything that made it past that should pass the injector orifice. As long as the sock is not damaged. I have had worse tanks that did not hurt the injectors.
I appreciate all the advice guys!

Well, I found a local radiator shop with excellent reviews that said they can clean and seal my tank for around $80. For me, time is $$$, and this sounds like an excellent deal since the products to do it alone will cost almost that much. So, looks like I may get out of this pretty inexpensively.

Of course, I plan on this being a temporary solution, and getting another tank as a replacement. Still trying to find an undamaged one though. Will keep trolling the FS section and eBay. lol
 

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Yeah, it is a live n learn thing man. I either store a tank filled to the brim or for serious long term storage I will empty it and dump a bottle of 2 cycle oil in it and coat the entire inside with it.


Curious why pull the valve cover or drain oil? Any contamination will be on the fuel side. The injectors won't show anything to the naked eye and I doubt anything of note made it past the filter sock. Anything that made it past that should pass the injector orifice. As long as the sock is not damaged. I have had worse tanks that did not hurt the injectors.
To inspect. Oxidation can crumble into very fine particles and pass through the injectors possibly causing more damage by scoring metal components. There are pins in the injectors that can get damaged/bent, and if there's particulates in the oil from passing through the injectors, it's a good chance some minor scoring on cyllinder walls may be present. I can go deeper for an in-depth explantion, but it's no need. It's basically a gateway to an thorough inspection.

I appreciate all the advice guys!

Well, I found a local radiator shop with excellent reviews that said they can clean and seal my tank for around $80. For me, time is $$$, and this sounds like an excellent deal since the products to do it alone will cost almost that much. So, looks like I may get out of this pretty inexpensively.

Of course, I plan on this being a temporary solution, and getting another tank as a replacement. Still trying to find an undamaged one though. Will keep trolling the FS section and eBay. lol
I would say just buy a new/pre-owned tank and filter with no oxidation as you stated. Patience is still a virtue. It may run a little more, but I'm sure it'll be worth it.

All the best with getting her back to good health.
 

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Motosylum Racing #132
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Yeah, it is a live n learn thing man. I either store a tank filled to the brim or for serious long term storage I will empty it and dump a bottle of 2 cycle oil in it and coat the entire inside with it.


Curious why pull the valve cover or drain oil? Any contamination will be on the fuel side. The injectors won't show anything to the naked eye and I doubt anything of note made it past the filter sock. Anything that made it past that should pass the injector orifice. As long as the sock is not damaged. I have had worse tanks that did not hurt the injectors.
To inspect. Oxidation can crumble into very fine particles and pass through the injectors possibly causing more damage by scoring metal components. There are pins in the injectors that can get damaged/bent, and if there's particulates in the oil from passing through the injectors, it's a good chance some minor scoring on cyllinder walls may be present. I can go deeper for an in-depth explantion, but it's no need. It's basically a gateway to an thorough inspection.
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Exceptionally highly unlikely. That is a bit over the top. tIt isnt like you would see anything in the oil (if a solid went past the rings the motor was shot to begin with) and you would have to pull the head to look at a cylinder... Not a valve cover. Unless you used a bore scope through the spark plug hole. But then why remove anything but the plug?
Anything that passed through the sock or injector is going to get pulled out with the exhaust.
 

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Exceptionally highly unlikely. That is a bit over the top. tIt isnt like you would see anything in the oil (if a solid went past the rings the motor was shot to begin with) and you would have to pull the head to look at a cylinder... Not a valve cover. Unless you used a bore scope through the spark plug hole. But then why remove anything but the plug?
Anything that passed through the sock or injector is going to get pulled out with the exhaust.
In theory, you are 100% correct, and it's a good chance there's no damage. As far as a bore scope, you're spot on. The thing is, these motors are spinning 12K-15+K times a minute while at the track - you obviously know by looking at your resume. In addition, there's always residual fluid left behind in the cylinder during each opening and closing cylce of the valves. How do you think people cylinder walls get scored up and their oil gets dirty after running with no air filter? Same concept. Paticulate matter can be very small, and at times, finds ways to pass the rings; maybe the ring end gaps. Sometimes, you can see particulates floating in the oil. I know I did when I drained mine after a mechanical failure.


EDIT: Also, this is for those looking into long time storage. If you read this, it works well. Just add more d-packs.

https://www.r6-forum.com/forums/57-garage-mechanical-help/442134-fuel-tank-empty-winterization-storage-experiment-2.html
 

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Motosylum Racing #132
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Yeah, I mean running without an air filter is one thing. Crystallization off of a FI is a bit different. If that chunk goes past the rings its a different game. Mechanical failure is a totally different game. There is blow by for sure, I just dont see something 150 microns in size getting past the rings. It'll either be pushed out or rattle around until the cylinder fails. Exhaust scavenging is going to pull debris out in short order as long as debris doesnt keep getting thrown in (like having no air filter) it'll be fine.
 

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You do understand that the injectors are pulsing anywhere from ~ 2.5 - 3.5 ms at idle? At WOT, it's a whole different ball game with the rate and speed at which they spray in fuel - simple multiplication depending on the signal sent to the injectors. You do know that the fuel filter will not catch 100% of the oxidized iron (steel) from the rusted tank? Guess where that oxidized iron (steel) saturated fuel is going? Through the injectors, past the injector pins, and into the combustion chamber. He did what, 3 or 4 sessions with that situation? That's a lot of time and a lot of particulate that could potentially get somewhere it doesn't belong. My $0.02.

In short, I just want the OP to ensure he has no more problems down the road. Peace of mind!
 

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jesus... ALL fuel pumps have a sock or prefilter. Tossing a tank because of some surface rust that $50 worth of chemical will fix permanently??? Glad you dont work on bikes professionally...lol
 

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I'm not sure who your comment was directed to, but I'll state this. Yes, Yamaha makes Tank Rust Repair. For something sitting for that long, and that amount of rust, there are many other factors to consider. I personally have never used that product or read the specs. Rust, over time, causes degredation - degredation to the sheet metal, to the welds/seals/seams, to the hardware... That amount of rust, although probably not a serious structural issue, could potentially be a safety factor.

I'll digresss on that note, but I tend to tread toward long term safety first over saving a few dollars. A pre-owned rust free tank can be had for an inexpensive amount of change.
 

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Why yes I don't!!!!!!!!!!
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I'm not sure who your comment was directed to, but I'll state this. Yes, Yamaha makes Tank Rust Repair. For something sitting for that long, and that amount of rust, there are many other factors to consider. I personally have never used that product or read the specs. Rust, over time, causes degredation - degredation to the sheet metal, to the welds/seals/seams, to the hardware... That amount of rust, although probably not a serious structural issue, could potentially be a safety factor.

I'll digresss on that note, but I tend to tread toward long term safety first over saving a few dollars. A pre-owned rust free tank can be had for an inexpensive amount of change.

Im going to guess you havent wrenched or restored a vintage motorcycle?? Very few can be descaled dry. Most need acid level cleaning. That tank could easily have been cleaned dry & then sealed.
Long term schlong term. Hence when the "winterization" questions come up my first suggestion is to "drain the tank". Dipshits do the exact opposite then add some bullshit chemical...lol A quality siphon hose is all of $10 and its really easy to drain a tank that way.
 

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You, as well as I, don't know everything. Once in a while you need to be reminded of that. We all learn on a continuous basis.

Experience is the best teacher, and even those with experience can be wrong and learn something new. I have the tools and knowledge to solve complex problems of this nature on a deeper level than some. That's why I spent the last 12 years learning how to be a good problem solver. Some problems, I haven't run into yet, and I haven't run into a problem I couldn't solve yet. Some solutions just takes more time - I'm always working.
 
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