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if you plan on getting the ecu flashed they can turn off the cel for the exup motor. (will never come on again)
be 100% sure you clear all cel codes before you send it off to be flashed.

a lot of guys send their ecu to superbike unlimited.
I bought the flash kit to do it myself. which enables me to change the maps etc too. eliminating the need for a power commander etc.

I'm a little upset at the newer bikes going to this OBDII crap. yamaha is not even making a YEC race ecu for the 2017 R6.
Is it hard to Flash ECU yourself? I've done the PCV for a full yoshi and air filter.
So many things to learn since i just joined in on here after owning for 9 months

Its easy. However will cost you around $400. But you can do it yourself as much as you want. Or send it to someone for $125 or so. But you cant change stuff without sending it away again
 

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If emissions were the reason they eliminated "simple diagnostic" mode altogether, they could've simply stripped out the functions that allow for code reset. There's no reason to prevent the display of code, display of sensor data, strip out the ability to actuate relays, spark. That makes no sense.

This is likely just Yamaha assimilating to what has been the industry standard - sell expensive books, tools and adapters to bleed you dry on the post-sale support end. Other manufacturers from Apple to Mercedes have been reaping massive profits from that approach to business for quite a long time. Why not join them? It's no longer good enough to just sell parts, certification material and certifications.

This move will affect my buying decisions for the future. The unfortunate thing is they'll ALL be doing this. As systems become more numerous, and the numerous become more complex, having a built-in "simple diagnostic" should be a given. Giving the owner individual control to read a code, switch a relay, fire off a spark plug, read a sensor is just common sense. We shouldn't have to spend an additional $600 or even $20 to accomplish that.



Its not yamaha. Europe has mandated obd2 diagnostics be in motorcycles. They sell more bikes in europe than usa. So our bikes will be the same as it would cost too much to do 2 systems.
It sucks for the average owner but its actually better for a dealer tech as the system is better to use for diagnostics.

insider info from yamaha.... the systems now are far better for diagnostics. I can log the data on a ride, I can perform tests to a running engine, I can monitor the sensors with the engine running called dynamic inspection. it still has the static data the traditional "diag" mode did but it's considered useless now. the bike also now records the last few seconds of engine data before a fault was detected called freeze frame data. it also allows me to test the abs, traction control, FI. it will also allow me to control systems as the engine is running. such as a cylinder drop test etc.
 

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I have similar software and adapter for cars. My point was, the simple diagnostic mode in the second-gen R6 that provided the option to simply read an individual sensor, simply read an individual switch, simply actuate a particular relay, simply activate a single spark plug, should be built in. The system was already there, and was quite useful to the shade-tree. If you want to get more complex with freeze frame data and actual analysis, THEN you have the option of plugging up to a special tool. I don't accept the idea that the interfaces must be mutually exclusive to one another, particularly since the the dash controls and displays, are the interface for the preceding diag system.

Thanks for the posts by the way. [:)]
 

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Its easy. However will cost you around $400. But you can do it yourself as much as you want. Or send it to someone for $125 or so. But you cant change stuff without sending it away again
I understand its money, looking at one for 340, but im actively trying to learn exactly how i am able to edit all the maps and settings. is there a software that comes with it or somewhere where i can acquire it? I've heard that you can brick your ecu if things go wrong, is that correct?
 

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Its easy. However will cost you around $400. But you can do it yourself as much as you want. Or send it to someone for $125 or so. But you cant change stuff without sending it away again
I understand its money, looking at one for 340, but im actively trying to learn exactly how i am able to edit all the maps and settings. is there a software that comes with it or somewhere where i can acquire it? I've heard that you can brick your ecu if things go wrong, is that correct?
Yes they provide software. You can sign up for an account at ftecu and down load their as a test drive. The one annoying thing with ftecu is you have to have internet connection to use it. So if youre at a race track and need to adjust the map, youre shit out of luck. Woolich racing wont let you download theirs until youve bought the kit. But you can use theirs offline.
Ive heard of it being possible to brick the ecu but ive never seen anyone on their forums have done it.. Flashing it is how the factory does it. As long as you dont trip over the cord and unplug it during the writing process i think its 99.99% safe.

Ive done mine prob 7 times so far. It takes about 40 sec. Its the exact same process as writing a map to a power commander. And while the ftecu and woolich software is like adobe photoshop vs microsoft paint(power commander) it works pretty much the same. But they have more settings.
It can get overwhelming using it. For example the R1 can have a different map for every gear its in. Something the power commander cant do. And you can adjust the ignition timing.
 

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Its easy. However will cost you around $400. But you can do it yourself as much as you want. Or send it to someone for $125 or so. But you cant change stuff without sending it away again
Yes they provide software. You can sign up for an account at ftecu and down load their as a test drive. The one annoying thing with ftecu is you have to have internet connection to use it. So if youre at a race track and need to adjust the map, youre shit out of luck. Woolich racing wont let you download theirs until youve bought the kit. But you can use theirs offline.
Ive heard of it being possible to brick the ecu but ive never seen anyone on their forums have done it.. Flashing it is how the factory does it. As long as you dont trip over the cord and unplug it during the writing process i think its 99.99% safe.

Ive done mine prob 7 times so far. It takes about 40 sec. Its the exact same process as writing a map to a power commander. And while the ftecu and woolich software is like adobe photoshop vs microsoft paint(power commander) it works pretty much the same. But they have more settings.
It can get overwhelming using it. For example the R1 can have a different map for every gear its in. Something the power commander cant do. And you can adjust the ignition timing.
Brooooo. Yessss. You telling me all the things i want to hear (wish i can put emojis here; idk how) and that sounds like a sure thing.

Thanks man!!
 

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I have someone to flash the ecu.

send me a private email.


Ok so here is most likely the final update. In the original post I had mentioned that I was ordering the Yamaha computer diagnostic tool. Well that was on national back order and I would not have gotten that for a couple months. So I ordered the OBD/GST wire kit I had also mentioned in the original post. I got that today and it worked, however I still have a check light being kicked and I'll get into that at the end of the post.

So the OB/GST wire kit will indeed work with ANY OBD II scanner and clear the code properly. This is what I got with the wire kit, and OBD II connection with the R6 connector and a three way connector which I believe is for the dirt bikes, but I am not sure. Then I got another three pronged wire with a positive and negative and some other lead. I'm also not sure what these are for. This kit costs about $85 from the website I mentioned, perhaps you can find one cheaper. The part number is listed in the service manual.





Then you connect the OBD II into ANY motor vehicle scanner. Such as this one that I purchased for about $60 today at my local store. It reads and clears codes.



So then you connect it up into the square port on the bike, just to the left of the battery near the ECU



Once the scanner loads all the way in, some devices will want you to select a vehicle. Just select one, it doesn't matter. OBD codes kick out the same way. I selected Suzuki, Toyota and Honda and it spit out all the same code - P0746 which in the service manual, translates having to do with EXUP valve that I removed. So it will read the code and then I clear it. The light goes away and all is OK. Now for some people this will be it, they unplug it and go on their merry way.

For me, I purchased a Dyno Jet EXUP removal module from Cycle Gear. Got it, installed it and it threw the light. Which brought me here. I asked for them to send me another one, got that one installed it, CLEARED the light and about 10 mins later it sends the light again. SO I called Dyno Jet and they provide no support for it and it even says on the paper work that gets sent from Cycle Gear that it works on the 2006-2010 model. Now you and I know that from 2008-2016 the bike hasn't changed much, but PERHAPS 2017 did which some of their electronic components with their exhaust especially because the EXUP Motor is actually under the fuel tank now and not behind the rear spring. So I called my local shop and spoke with a tech there and he said that the only people that offer support for the EXUP eliminator is Graves Motorsports. Yamaha also lists them on their manufacturer website and offers it as a OEM type of after market part. Also via their website, they say specifically it will turn off the engine light with regards to the exhaust issue. Now for face value, they look exactly the same, pictures on websites I can't tell a difference. But maybe there is something, so I ordered that and RMA'd the Dyno Jet EXUP and am waiting for the Graves part. Just FYI, the bike runs perfectly fine, it is NOT in a limp home mode and it DOES allow me to switch TCS modes and Ride modes without issue.


However, that is my issue and if that doesn't work then I may have to flash the ECU over the winter time when I am not riding. I may end up doing it anyway, so if anyone has anyone reputable for flashing the ECU, let me know.

I also have attached some final pictures of the bike and this is what I have done to it so far; M4 Y-Pipe (cut the cat off like on the older models), Akrapovic new 2017 GP Slip on for this model year (No different from the others, however it is the WSBK look), Power Commander with a custom map (available if anyone would like it, PM me), the Yamaha Up Quickshifter, Graves frame sliders, Yamaha engine cover kit, rear seat delete (IMU may be coming), and mirror block offs.






So I hope this helps people in the future and if you have any questions, I could try and answer them.

For the service manuals visit Yamahapubs. They have the e-book for like 14$. I couldn't manage to rip it off at all.
 

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So the diag mode is only accessible with the usb diagnostic tool? Does one need the tool and the a/i part number?
 

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The screenshot yamahacrazy posted says diag is the same as cluster accessed as they are used to. So that tells me my cluster has it.
 

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The screenshot yamahacrazy posted says diag is the same as cluster accessed as they are used to. So that tells me my cluster has it.
no that's not what it means. they're talking about the new diagnostic software for yamaha techs. it still has the old way of checking the stuff plus all the new ways. for the consumer we can only use a odbII scan tool to erase the codes. I'm not 100% the codes that is for cars will show the correct code for yamaha motorcycles. It may only be able to show codes like, PO300(multiple cylinder misfire) but it probably doesn't apply to anything for a yamaha motorcycle. I had to quit that dealership or I'd show you more screenshots of it. they didn't even want to work on Yamaha motorcycles. they only sold yamaha wave runners. which I couldn't fucking stand working on. it's like working on a lifted pickup truck LOL
all I do know is the good ol days are over. (n)
 

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Bumping the thread from a search here...

On a 17 R6, I'm showing the following codes when I scan with an OBDII reader.
How do I find out what each code means as it relates to the R6? Googling shows general auto-focused code explanations.

I'd like to clear them before sending the ecu off to Bauce Racing for the reflash.

A little history...the bike sat for awhile with a dead battery. It has a M4 Mid pipe and a slip on with the exup disconnected. No other mods. I purchased the bike like this and rode it home without noticing any massive faults in engine feel. The bike has 2,700 miles total.

This is the code throwing the engine light: P0500 Powertrain - Vehicle Speed Sensor

These codes are in the memory:
C1555 - Chassis
P0500 - Powertrain - Vehicle Speed Sensor
P1E70 - Powertrain
P1EF4 - Powertrain
P1EF5 - Powertrain

Thanks in advance.
 

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Pin 1 Bottom Right - Red wire
(to slot 16 - ODBII)

Pin 2 Bottom Left - Black/White wire
(to slots 4&5 - OBDII)

Pin 3 Top Right - Blue/Red wire
(to slot 6 - ODBII)

Pin 4 Top Left - Blue/Black
(to slot 14 - ODBII)
Hi y'all and sorry to dig up this, but does anyone know what are these wires used for? I suppose the Red wire and the Black/White are power + and - but what about the two others? Can+? Can-? K-line?

I have a 5 pins OBD2 cable that i'm trying to adapt to use it with the R6.

Thanks for posting guys, really appreciate the help.
 
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