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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I realize this topic has been worn the F**k OUT! but......

I'm wanting to do a 520 conversion but having issues figuring out what to get. I want to get more low end power, but don't want to loose too much top end. From the information I have gathered i'm looking at 15F 47B which, if i understand correctly is -1 +2. Is this correct? Should I buy a kit, or buy everything individually? Is this something I can do myself? Am I going to have to cut the chain or need any special tools? Any info would be great! I'm wanting to do this next week.
 

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-1/+2 (15/47) as a kit. driven is the best aluminum choice, and steel is all about the same, imo.

dremel the old chain off, chain rivet too to put the new one on. also a 32mm socket for the rear axle nut, and a 30mm socket for the front. a pneumatic impact for the front helps wonders in getting that bastard off.

it's pretty straight forward. good luck.
 

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Driven kit comes with everything you need just install... when you go -1 / +2 you gain a shit ton of pull in low end but lose a lot top end and will always be riding high rpms on the highway
 

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don't forget about the speedoDRD to correct your speedo/odometer after the gearing change... i know a guy. :)secret check my sig)
 

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I eat what my R6 cooks!
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it doesnt add miles to the bike you havent ridden(example of you riding at 70 mph for an hour, but your speedo says 80, it would count as 10 miles on the bike more than you actually went)

truthfully, i dont see the need for a speedoDRD or speedohealer. to me its tossing money away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Where can I buy a kit. -1 +2.....at a good price. Looked at Motorcyclesuperstore.com...they only sell individually. Where do you guys buy the majority of your motorcycle parts. I get them there ^, and on eBay most of the time. Ebay has a 520 Conv kit for $118 shipped. Does it REALLY make sense to buy the name brand stuff if you just doing some heavy street riding and a few wheelies?
 

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Impossible is Nothing.
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if your nervous about losing too much top end or highway cruising, i recommend just -1 in the front, its a noticable difference and i like it
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If I did just -1 in the front it would make a difference down low? I know everyone says you should ALWAYS switch out your chain and sprockets at the same time, but my Sh*t is brand new. It would be a waste if I couldnt just do a -1 and keep my chain and rear. Would this be ok or is there a reason why i shouldnt?
 

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I'll point this out because it's often overlooked ....

If your stock chain is still good, you know you can just get a 15t 525 countershaft sprocket for like $25 and get the same gearing change benefits, right? Personally, 15/47 is too short for me and I like the stock gearing. I run 16/46 or 16/45 for most things.
 

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I'll point this out because it's often overlooked ....

If your stock chain is still good, you know you can just get a 15t 525 countershaft sprocket for like $25 and get the same gearing change benefits, right? Personally, 15/47 is too short for me and I like the stock gearing. I run 16/46 or 16/45 for most things.
+1. Dont like running that small of a countershaft sprocket on ANYTHING.
Id rather take it out back than up front.
 

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Riding his own ride...
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As long as it's a 15T or higher you're fine. It won't wear anything out any quicker. A 14t is a gray area, but lots of kawi guys do it and still get just as many miles all the other bikes. 15T and up though you won't find any data showing it wears the chain out any quicker then a 16t or a 17t.
 

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it doesnt add miles to the bike you havent ridden(example of you riding at 70 mph for an hour, but your speedo says 80, it would count as 10 miles on the bike more than you actually went)

truthfully, i dont see the need for a speedoDRD or speedohealer. to me its tossing money away.
it will add unnecessary miles. i dont see how you can think its pointless to have.
 

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I don't have one on mine. My bike racks up about 15% more miles, but if I ever went to sell it i can't see changing the price from 10k to 11.5k miles or 20k vs 23k miles? Also you can tell the purchaser and they can see that it's regeared. I can see how it's nice to have one, but far from "needed". I don't have anything like that on any of my bikes. My r1 is off 12% so I just round it to 10% and i can figure my correct speed in the blink of an eye by figuring 10% off. 55mph i know i'm doing 50mph, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ok, so this is my understanding. I can drop a tooth on my front sprocket and gain low end power without changing anything else. Is this harder on my engine? How much will it throw my MPH off?
 

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I eat what my R6 cooks!
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it will add unnecessary miles. i dont see how you can think its pointless to have.
my bike is 10.1% off. how much more will you pay for a bike that has 10,000 miles vs 11,000? lets say youre buying a low mile bike. will you really pay any extra for the bike with 5000 miles vs 5500? i wouldnt.

it is a neat little thing to have, but as corey said, it is far from needed. i would rather invest my money(70 bucks isnt it?) elsewhere. maybe in my truck or even christmas gifts for my family.
 

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For me it is just the pure convenience of know my exact speed I am traveling. When I went -1/+2 I was off 17%.
 

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Ok, so this is my understanding. I can drop a tooth on my front sprocket and gain low end power without changing anything else. Is this harder on my engine? How much will it throw my MPH off?
i'd guess in the neighborhood of ~10%.

it won't be any harder on the motor, except at cruising speeds b/c you'll be in a higher rpm range. and despite what some might say - having a speedometer that isn't accurate is actually illegal. i was sighted for that when i told the officer my speedo wasn't right. "non-working speedometer" or some crap like that - real douchebag, so i'm betting he's the only cop that would EVER give out a ticket like that, but still.
 

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crashing aint so bad
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I wouldn't worry about top speed anyway. There isn't many tracks in the us where you can top the bike out anyway. Certainly aint gonna do it on the freeway I hope? When I re-geared -1 +2, I didn't miss a thing about the stock gearing.
 

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I wouldn't worry about top speed anyway. There isn't many tracks in the us where you can top the bike out anyway. Certainly aint gonna do it on the freeway I hope? When I re-geared -1 +2, I didn't miss a thing about the stock gearing.
What you talkin bout Willis?
 
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