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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am going to slap on a 520 conversion on my 01 r6. i was going to go with -1 front +2 back. My friend has -3 front +3 back on his 04. Now i have never ridden his rike but it is a wheelies machine. I want to be able to stand it up easy but i dont want to do a back flip if you know what i mean. With this in mind, what size sprockets should i go with? Is my friend just crazy?
 

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Might check these threads out:

http://www.r6-forum.com/nuke/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=5562

http://www.r6-forum.com/nuke/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=5154

I had been told before that -1 front/+2 rear will get the max out of the R6. I just did the 520 conversion 15 front/50 rear and I am extremely pleased. My acceleration is way better than before and if I feel like standing it up, it's a lot easier now. My top end really didn't suffer, I just get there quicker. Plus my rpms only run about 200-300 more per gear now. I ride with two liter bikes and I can keep up with them to about 100-110 mph, after that they gradually pull away. Before I bought the kit, a member of this forum told me it was "the best bang for your buck" as far as upgrades.
 

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I actually think it is the best upgrade I have done to the 6 other than the aftermarket exhaust. I rode Mount Lemmon in Tucson this past weekend and coming out of the corners the acceleration was so awesome, none of the other 600s could keep up, the 1000s were there with me. I wasn't trying to leave them, I just like givin' her a little juice out of the hole.
 

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I installed mine myself, was fairly simple. Instead of buying a chain breaker, I used my Dremel tool and ground the end off the riveted link. Worked well. The new chain came with a clip link so that was easy to install. I plan on having a riveted link installed soon. I know the clip links are just fine, but I want the comfort of knowing the rivet link isn't going anywhere. The whole ordeal took about 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Tools I used were:
1/2 inch torque wrench
1/2 inch drive ratchet
1/2 drive 32mm socket
14 mm socket
12 mm socket
10mm and 12mm wrench
5mm and 6mm allen wrench
Dremel Tool w/ cutoff wheel (in place of the chain breaker)
Rear Stand
 

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yep, -1/+2 520 is a wonderful mod for r6s

and at around $150 it just might be the best "bang for your buck"
 

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Honestly a 520 is not needed. I stunt on a stock 2004 R6 and I have no problem standing and getting it up. It all depends on your skill as a stunter. Anyone can stunt on a 1000, but it takes mad skills to stunt on a 6. Be prepared to put in alot of practice to master your tricks. If you changed your gearing it would be easier, but it would also make the bike more twitchy when up in the air...that could get nasty if you are just learning. :cheers
 

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I don't even think about stunting and absolutely love the fact that i changed gearing and went with 520!!

Makes the R6's power way more usuable in the twisties.....for that's where the REAL fun is :drink
 

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I have to agree with you on having more usable power in the twisties, especially if you come up on a corner a little too hot. I notice with the changed gearing, even though it was slight, the bike would decelerate on its own quicker, relieving the need to brake to slow down if needed before entering a turn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes i know people who stunt on a stock r6. However i never saw anyone stand it up in second or third with stock gearing. Im sure its possible. Im just looking for a gearing that makes it easier while at the same time keeping it safe...
 

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I did the 520 conversion too, but i went -1/+3. i like it, thats the way i got the bike when i bought it but i wanted to put the 520 kit on it. It does great in the twisties and when i want to stunt it does that easily also. :hammer
 

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You know -1 front +2 rear is almost equal to +5 rear. -3 front +3 rear is like going +12 rear. Thats a lot different then -1front +2 rear. There goes your top end, you might as well put a cage around the bike and a 12 o clock bar on.

Even though -1 front is like going +3 rear it doesn't feel the same. Just slap a +15 rear and you'll be in loop heaven.

TraumaTEC is right it's all about skill and stock being all that is needed. 2nd gear comes up just fine. Just learn your bikes power band and BOUNCE it up. Or to save rpms just clutch it up.
 

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Has anyone put 15-47 on their six? I`m not looking to show off in front of a mall or girlschool, just want quicker acceleration on track & twisties. And i also need my top end for certain tracks...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
i am going to get the DID x ring chain and SS sprockets. Do most people buy the titan tough for a rear sprocket or do they stick to the standard aluminum alloy?
 

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MiKER192 said:
i am going to get the DID x ring chain and SS sprockets. Do most people buy the titan tough for a rear sprocket or do they stick to the standard aluminum alloy?
i ended up getting the stealth sprocket for the rear, steel teeth ring riveted to an aluminum hub.
 

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MiKER192 said:
i am going to get the DID x ring chain and SS sprockets. Do most people buy the titan tough for a rear sprocket or do they stick to the standard aluminum alloy?
the titan tough is good. That is what i had. I had a shitload of miles..hard miles... on it and it still looked new.

titan tough aluminum gives you the weight reduction, but is also hard anodized so it is super strong
 

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what is exactly the difference between an x-ring chain, and an 0-ring chain? noob question, i know.but im a dork with chains. never changed it myself, and im gonna start. BTW, is it hard to install the chain, being that the front sprocket isnt exactly exposed.
 
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