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Big ol pile of them bones
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Friendly reminder guys, something I posted some time ago to help get people going in the right direction rather than chase the dragon doing it all wrong:


Wanted to mention... (I remember reading this on Factory Pro's website somewhere awhile ago)
When tuning carbs, the main jets have to be right FIRST. If you don't get the right mains first, everything else is pretty much going to have to change again after you do get the right jets. If you have never installed a jet kit or read the tuning instructions, they follow in order like this:
1. Main jets
2. Adjust Needles
3. Adjust Float Height (if necessary)
4. Adjust Pilot Screws

If you don't follow that order, you will have to go back and do steps 2,3,4 again when the jets are changed.
 

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I get paid to get high
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#40 pilots, pilot screws 2.5 out, stock mains, .5 mm shims on stock needles. OEM filter, 2nd gen GYT-R CF slip on. Runs good, pulls hard all the way through. Gets a little argumentative if its real hot out. Usually anywhere from sea level to about 1000'. Been thinking of running 152 mains on all four. Why are the inside ones 148?
 

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UPDATED:

1999 R6
Stock air filter
Danmoto Ti slip-on exhaust with street insert
Ivan's Jet kit installed as instructions state
#148 main jets
#38 pilot jets
Screw turned out 2.5 turns
Needle clip #3 from top

Still have a spot around 7500-8500RPM that I get s slight sputter with WOT
 

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Hello everyone!

I have an 01 R6 that had a Yosh TRS slip on installed. I recently replaced that with a dan moto XG-1. The carbs need adjusted for sure, any ideas where i should start going from a TRS to a dan moto XG-1? The new exhaust is wide open for the most part. See my build below. Thanks for the help in advance, i am just not sure what jets to buy and what carb settings i should start with. :toocool:


http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showthread.php?t=101626
 

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Go to ur local motorcycle shop with a dyno and let them mess around with it instead of wasting riding time and removing everything over and over and still run like shit. I was on dyno for 2h and dont reget the cost.
 

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Hopefully somebody has still some knowledge about the old carbs... Chief are you still there? ^^

My R6 2001 has the following setup:
- BMC Race air cleaner
- Akraprovic full exhaust (manifold + muffler)
- 4° Ign Advancer
- Carbs short funnels

I replace my carbs cause of some issue from the pre-owner of my bike... the carbs shall be from the YEC Kit.
- Main jet 1&4 : 118 - 2&3 : 120
- Pilot 38
- Needles 1&4: N9WA - 2&3 N8NC both in 2nd clip position
- Screw 3 turns out -> CO 3%

When I perform the 7/8 throttle test the bike pushs me very hard - so for my feeling the mains are far too lean.
According YEC KIT it should be much bigger.

1/2 - full throttle the engine feels not smooth between 5k-8k -> needle position as far as I understood so far, but first find the correct main jet.

BUT the YEC Kit says inside (!) jetting bigger than outside. I know that the needles are important for this fact but I don't find any information about "such" needles.
Is somebody able to help me?

I will measure the needles and provide some information about. In the YEC Kit they put 128 Mains in the middle cyl and 125 Mains in the outside cyl.
I will order some mains and do the same - when I'm a step too rich - how much is one jet size to big in Lambda/AFR? Is there any statement possible?

My issue is that I don't have any dyno next to me and I can't drive "easy" on a bench to test it... I will do it "off season".
 

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Me again. New main jets arrived today.
First I measured the needles. Of course I mixed them. No marking on them.

May somebody can identify them, maybe somebody needs this information in 10 years.

However, they are 60mm long. 1 taper at 24mm with OD 2.50mm and the tip is 1.45mm - I put them in the outside cylinder. And the other tip is 1.55mm - I put them in the inner cylinders.
5 clips in total. I have them on position 2 - with one washer of each side.

Inner jets 125 and outer 122. Like in the YEC Kit manual mentioned - big main and bigger needle tip - makes sense for me :) WOT the inner cylinder leans out because of heat - that’s my understanding so far.

Pilot jet 38 - may I will change it to 40, I have a lot of lean bang in the exhaust, some over fueling bang would be nicer. I will check if I have some issues during driving - could image I let it bang a little bit (no bang at the intake).

Alternator connector is burned - I have to repair tomorrow first. Then I will take a ride.

Coolant connection to the carbs also dismounted..
 

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Setup 125 inner, 122 outer - needles 2nd Position and thin washer.
No full throttle lags any more.
1st gear easy lifting of the front wheel - surprised me a little bit to be honest :D

WOT and then 7/8 throttle still push some acceleration - have to test it a little bit - was a little bit cold when I drove. May I have to step one size larger. Needle position I would say a half step richer (next position, no washer). But much much better than before.

I never expected such step in the right direction. Had the fear that I will over fuel with this step :D

But I’m also a little bit unhappy that I’m not able to identify the needles.
 

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Drop a gear and DISAPPEAR
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Keep us updated please. I def need this thread to keep going!!! Any gen 1 knowledgeable guys out there please throw in some advance. Currently Ivan’s I had 40s in pilot but took them out ad went back to 38s. 148s main all the way across and stock needles with one thin washer kit stock filter muzzy exhaust. doesn't pull like it should at wot. Roll on is a lot better but Major no power until power ban on wot from fully closed
 

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:toocool: Awesome brotha, glad to hear this! :cheers

How does it return to idle when you snap the throttle? I.E. does it go back to normal idle without hesitation, does it drop low then come back up to normal, does it hang a little high then drop down to normal?
Anybody still around that knows these first gens?
What’s the answer when you have BOTH of these? Sometimes it hangs up, sometimes it dips too low, and half the time when it dips too low it will recover, the other half it dies. I know hang ups are lean indicative, and the dips are rich indicative. When I see the dips most are when I rev it up higher and then just let go of throttle. 4K and let go it usually recovers. Higher it more often dies. This is all in neutral,as I’ve been trying to tune this out before I put everything back together. The reason I started trying to work on the carbs is because it would die when coming to a stop pulling in the clutch. Basically the same as having low-midrange revs and cutting throttle. I’ve cleaned the hell out of them, I know it’s not a clog at this point. Oem sizing, 49 state bike. Yoshimura exhaust, I think it’s just a slip on, the headers look stock. Not entirely sure about midpipe though? Stock air filter, a little dirty but not nearly bad enough to be a cause of concern, and I’m pretty sure I’m good on vacuum leaks. I’ve sprayed carb cleaner near the boots and lines a few times, saw no change. My city’s elevation according to Wikipedia is 495’, but I’m in a “valley” and I’m not sure where they’re going by, because parts of my city are way higher than others. I figure it’s probably an average...and it’s probably about right. I’m in the edge of East SF Bay Area Cali. If that helps. If anyone of you gurus is still around I would love some input. I ordered a full set of multiple different pilot sizes and a pair of several different mains just to have them on hand. Im tired of losing this battle. I’ve read through every page of this thread, and exhausted hours upon hours searching this site as well as other r6 specific forums, google searches, YouTube, local rider forums... I refuse to give up on this bike, and I consider letting someone else fix it giving up. I’m a mechanic and I’ll be damned if I’ll let someone else wrench on my machine if I can get the info I need. I know these bikes are 20ish years old Now, but... there’s gotta be a few around still that know a thing or two, right? I hope. Otherwise I’m going to keep fighting this battle single handed. It’ll be a lot harder and longer fight but I’ll win it some way some how.
 

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Big ol pile of them bones
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Anybody still around that knows these first gens?
What’s the answer when you have BOTH of these? Sometimes it hangs up, sometimes it dips too low, and half the time when it dips too low it will recover, the other half it dies. I know hang ups are lean indicative, and the dips are rich indicative. When I see the dips most are when I rev it up higher and then just let go of throttle. 4K and let go it usually recovers. Higher it more often dies. This is all in neutral,as I’ve been trying to tune this out before I put everything back together. The reason I started trying to work on the carbs is because it would die when coming to a stop pulling in the clutch. Basically the same as having low-midrange revs and cutting throttle. I’ve cleaned the hell out of them, I know it’s not a clog at this point. Oem sizing, 49 state bike. Yoshimura exhaust, I think it’s just a slip on, the headers look stock. Not entirely sure about midpipe though? Stock air filter, a little dirty but not nearly bad enough to be a cause of concern, and I’m pretty sure I’m good on vacuum leaks. I’ve sprayed carb cleaner near the boots and lines a few times, saw no change. My city’s elevation according to Wikipedia is 495’, but I’m in a “valley” and I’m not sure where they’re going by, because parts of my city are way higher than others. I figure it’s probably an average...and it’s probably about right. I’m in the edge of East SF Bay Area Cali. If that helps. If anyone of you gurus is still around I would love some input. I ordered a full set of multiple different pilot sizes and a pair of several different mains just to have them on hand. Im tired of losing this battle. I’ve read through every page of this thread, and exhausted hours upon hours searching this site as well as other r6 specific forums, google searches, YouTube, local rider forums... I refuse to give up on this bike, and I consider letting someone else fix it giving up. I’m a mechanic and I’ll be damned if I’ll let someone else wrench on my machine if I can get the info I need. I know these bikes are 20ish years old Now, but... there’s gotta be a few around still that know a thing or two, right? I hope. Otherwise I’m going to keep fighting this battle single handed. It’ll be a lot harder and longer fight but I’ll win it some way some how.
WOW, talk about blast from the past..... Just had a notification pop up in my email saying someone replied to this thread.

I swapped the motor in one with a blown motor a few years back for a buddy, 1st start ran great, put the airbox and all the hoses back in place and it did the same thing you're explaining. Was pulling my hair out too, then I had the airbox off to check the sync and it ran great again, so I put the airbox stuff back on 1 piece and hose at a time. everything was great until I connected the crankcase vent hose. Apparently the high mileage motor I swapped in had too much blow by. Hose attached to airbox ran like crap, hose disconnected ran smooth. Ended up putting a catch can on the vent hose and blocking off the nipple on the airbox, and he rode it for a year or so like that before he sold it. Not really the right solution but he was undecided if he was going to keep it anyways, so it was the cheap way out w/o paying me to do a complete rebuild.
 

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Damn well that worries me some, but I’ve run it both with and without the air box attached and it didn’t seem to make much of a difference. I did do a compression test last Thursday, because I found that I had a dead cylinder (turned out to be the pilot jet. I had replaced everything and even though it was brand new it didn’t flow. I guess it was a cheap kit. Since then I’ve thoroughly cleaned and reinstalled all of the OEM jets and needles, and it’s firing on all 4 now.) anyway, as for the compression test, they did all come up low imo but they were all even, so I moved on to a cylinder leakdown and it had virtually no leakage. Less than 5 percent. When running it with the air box off, I did notice some smoke coming out of the breather nipple on the crankcase, but it wasn’t much, very thin puffs. The exhaust also puffs smoke a tiny bit but not a large amount, and I’m attributing both of those more to it being during colder weather. Should I try to figure out a way to measure the pressure coming out of the breather? If I were to figure out a way to hook up a pressure gauge to that, would you happen to have any idea what would be normal or excessive?
 

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WOW, talk about blast from the past..... Just had a notification pop up in my email saying someone replied to this thread.

I swapped the motor in one with a blown motor a few years back for a buddy, 1st start ran great, put the airbox and all the hoses back in place and it did the same thing you're explaining. Was pulling my hair out too, then I had the airbox off to check the sync and it ran great again, so I put the airbox stuff back on 1 piece and hose at a time. everything was great until I connected the crankcase vent hose. Apparently the high mileage motor I swapped in had too much blow by. Hose attached to airbox ran like crap, hose disconnected ran smooth. Ended up putting a catch can on the vent hose and blocking off the nipple on the airbox, and he rode it for a year or so like that before he sold it. Not really the right solution but he was undecided if he was going to keep it anyways, so it was the cheap way out w/o paying me to do a complete rebuild.
I already replied to this but wanted to ask as well; on that particular instance, had you run a compression test, and/or a leak down test? And if so, do you recall approximate results?
 

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Damn well that worries me some, but I’ve run it both with and without the air box attached and it didn’t seem to make much of a difference. I did do a compression test last Thursday, because I found that I had a dead cylinder (turned out to be the pilot jet. I had replaced everything and even though it was brand new it didn’t flow. I guess it was a cheap kit. Since then I’ve thoroughly cleaned and reinstalled all of the OEM jets and needles, and it’s firing on all 4 now.) anyway, as for the compression test, they did all come up low imo but they were all even, so I moved on to a cylinder leakdown and it had virtually no leakage. Less than 5 percent. When running it with the air box off, I did notice some smoke coming out of the breather nipple on the crankcase, but it wasn’t much, very thin puffs. The exhaust also puffs smoke a tiny bit but not a large amount, and I’m attributing both of those more to it being during colder weather. Should I try to figure out a way to measure the pressure coming out of the breather? If I were to figure out a way to hook up a pressure gauge to that, would you happen to have any idea what would be normal or excessive?
 

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NOW I KNOW LOTS WILL DISAGREE AND LOTS WILL NOT BE HAPPY AS I AM GOING TO RELEASE MY HUMBLE OPINION WHICH IS APPLIED I CAN EVEN OFFER A RULE OF THUMB GUIDE .
THE MAIN ISSUE WITH JETTING WITH THE GREATEST OF RESPECT TO EVERYONE WHO IS AT THE STAGE OF COMPETENCE AND CONFIDENCE HOWEVER I COMMONLY NOTICE THAT EVERYONE IS TRYING TO HELP IM UK BASED AND THE DUDES FROM ACROSS THE POND JET SIZING IS COMPLETELY DIFFERENT ITS NOT JUST A HEAT THING AS THE CARB EVERYONE ON HERE IS JETTING CAN GIVE YOU A FALSE FEELING THAT YOUR GETTING CLOSE THEN THE LOT GOES AND IT RAN BETTER STOCK IS PRESSURE WHICH IS MORE CRUCIAL THAN CONSIDERED COZ REMEMBER GUYS NEARLY EVERY OTHER BIKE ON CARBS YOUR LIFTING THE SLIDE , AND WERE DOING EVERYTHING BUT LIFT THE SLIDE FEDAIR PRESSURE INCREASE ENSINE IS SUCKING AIR THEN IS STRONGER THAN THE PRESSURE IN THE THE BLACK PLASTIC CAP ABOVE THE DIAPHRAGM AND DONT FORGET THE SPRING DONT EVER CHOPAN INCH A RING OR ANY OTHER THREAD REGARDING THIS AS ANY CAEC HAVE SLIDE CONTROL A VAC CARB DOES NOT LIKE TO BE SNAPPED OPEN IN FACT NO MATTER IF PERFECT AFR ALL WAY UP NEEDLE IS CORRECT TO WIDE OPEN WHICH IS DOABLE IN MANY DIFFERENT WAYS

JUST A QUICKIE ILL EXPLAIN THE YEC CARB KIE AHTS GOING ON HOW TO MAKE ONE BUT I COMMONLY NOTICE SOME GUYS N GALS HAVING GREAT CONVERSATIONS BUT IF THE FIRST POINT OF ANY DISCUSSION BOTH ARE USING A DIFFERENT SCALE LOADS GETTING CLOSE THEN ANOTHER THREAD POPS UP AND SO DOES YOUR HEAD GUYS ON II8 JET ARE DYNOJETS AND ONCONVERTION IS A KEIHIN 125 AND EACH JET SKIMS TOP OF FUEL NOT SAT IN IT YOU CAN DO THEN FUEL GOES THROUGH VAC AIR WAYS LIKE DOING FORWARD ROLL I SWIMMING POOL IS REASONABLE TRY IT BACKWARDS YOUR EYES EARS NOSE THROAT EXACTLY CARB WERE DEALING WITH IS LIKE OURSELVES WE HAVE A DIAPHRAGM MUSCLE PUSHES UP N DOWN LUNGS AIR FORCED OUT RELAX DIAPHRAGM DRAWS IN ALWAYS BEAR THAT POINT IN MIND SO FLOAT HEIGHT IS CRITICAL AS THAT CONTROL NOT ONLY LEVEL OF FUEL CREATES PRESSURE IN AIR PILOT SYSTEM ADDING MORE THROTTLE RESPONSE AND WILL OPEN QUICKER BE LEANER AND GO LIKE NEVER BEFORE ITS EASY IF YOU KNOW NOW THIS WILL CAUSE CONTROVERSY AND I AINT LOOKING FOR PEOPLE CORRECT DICTATION AND IF YOU ARE WHICH I WELCOME PIC A TINY ERROR BLOW IT UP N TELL ME I'M WRONG THEN MAN BETTER HAVE PROOF
AS I HAVE I DON'T BOAST NOR BRAG N COULD OK COZ I KNOW SOME ONE WILL KNOW BETTER I TELL YOU EVERYONE HE ARMCHAIR RIDER NO R6 OWNED COPY N PASTE SOME PROFESSOR THEN TRUST ME LIKE THE HECKLER AND BEST COMEDIAN EVER FOR EACH OF US ILL REVEAL LETS JUST UNDERSTAND IF WAS PONTOON/BLACK JACK FIRST CARD I TURN WILL BE AN ACE OF SPADES NOUGH SAID BUT IM TRYING TO GET EVERY ONE TO UNDERSTAND AS BEST TWO STROKE CARB TUNER WITH 30 PLUS YEARS
CANT GET EM RIGHT BECAUSE NO OTHER CARB ON PLANET DOES COB A TPS ON AS WELL WHICH WILL BE COVERED N ILL BE SKINT BOO HOO BUT ANYONE PREPARED TO TAKE CARBS OFF AND HAVE A GO AT JETTING NEEDS A RULE OF THUMB EVEN YOU DUDES WHO PROGRAMME POWER COMMANDERS
WELL WE GOT A WAPPING ECU JUST FOR TIMING STILL STATE OF THE ART AGAINST ANY ECU THE 2000 MODEL IF NOTICED MITSUBISHI...OHLINS OF THE ECU WORLD YET TPS NOT SET CORRECT IT KICKS BACK PUTS FEET UP N NOW AND THEN JOINS IN SET TPS ITS ON YOUR EVERY MOVEMENT RESPONDING LIKE A GREY HOUND OUT OF THE TRAP OR A TEASED DOG AND YOU GOT THE BALL ITS WATCHIN N PRE EMPTING SAME WITH ECU ANY ONE DROVE A CARB CAR IM OLD LOL RS2000 3.0S CAPRI STEEP HILL FOOT TO FLOOR OR .....FIND ITS STRONGEST PULL THEN PRESS SLOWLY AND TO GO UP FASTER SO I STRESS THEY DON'T SNAP WIDE OPEN MORE POWER SO AS I SAY PRESSURE THIS IS HOW I EXPLAIN IT COZ BIGGER JET AINT MORE FUEL NOW ALL EXPERTS ARE ROLLING ABOUT THEN I PUT TO YO IF YOU WERE TRYING TO BLOW A BIRTHDAY CARD OVER WOULD YOU OPEN MOUTH NOPE PUCKER THEM LIS AND FLATTEN THAT SUCKER .SO FOR INSTANCE THE YEC MOD RUNNING HOSE FROM FRONT MOUTH AS I REFER TO IT IS GOOD AND ILL SHOW CORRECT WAY WHEN WE KNOW WHY COST £20 $30 HAVENT FORGOTTEN YOU GUYS ACROSS THE POND ALL APPLIES APART FROM THE CHOICE OF THE FOR OR EIGHT BITS YOU GONNA BUY ITS RICH FEELING SPENDING ONCE AND IT GOING LIKE HELL .
HERE IS A GENUINE MESSAGE SENT TODAY SCARED ME FIRST LINE " WHAT HAVE YOU DONE TO THEESE CARBS!!! FIN THING JUST TRIED TO KILL ME IT RUNS CHAMPION!! YOU ARE A F----- LEGEND"
THIS 6 HAS AKRA N A PANEL K&N AS THERE'S' S 4 COMPLETELY DIFFERENT SHAPED AND DESIGN I KNOW AS HAVE NEW OLD STOCK BOXED SEALED BAGS ,,,WHAT A GEEK..THE YA -002 N YEP THERE OUT THERE THIS IS WHERE THE GUYS N GALS ACROSS THE WATER GOT IT GOOD THEY CAN ORDER A GOOD SECOND HAND ONE JUST OVER A TENNER FIT RIDE OFF BETTER .....FOOLS TRIED EM THE YA 6001 DARE ONE OF YOU TO CHAT THAT LINER CRACKIN CRAP... THEY CAN SO CAN NO OIL IN ENGINE BUT WED ALL CHECK WHO READ THE INSTRUCTIONS HOW TO FIT K&N NA JUST CUT FRONT OUT DAVE SAID

IF FOLLOWED VERY VERY GOOD FILTER AS IS RESPONSIBLE FOR AIR SPEED THROUGH CARB TOO
FAST N IT WONT HAVE TIME TO MIX WITH FUEL AND SLAM SLIDED WIDE OPEN SO OUT YOU TAKE IT TASS IT AWAY N STOCK RESPONDS BETTER IF READ COUPLE OF LINES INDUCTION NOISE AMAZING PEPED UP NOTICEABLY FROM READING THAT YOU KNOW TO REMOVE LID O RING RUBBER SEALAND BASE OAF AIR BOX SINGLE STRIP OF RUBBER IT MEETS AT PARTITION I PICK OUTSIDE EDGE END REMOVING AT FINISH START AT PARTITION AND LIFT OUT THEN ALL WAY ROUND BEFORE EVEN THINK OF FINDING A NICE BATO STORE THEN IN AS CHANGE FILTER MAY NEED EM NOW GROW THIRD ARM LOL SO YOU SIT II IN BOTTOM ADD LID NOPE PLACED IN BOTTOM THEN LID SEATED IS REA WHERE TOOK O RINK FROM YOU'LL FEEL IT POP IN AS FRONT OF FILTER POPS UPKEEP HAND LIGHTLY ON REAR AS WE FELT THAT GO IN EASE FILTER BACK INTO BOTTOM OF AIR BOX BACK IS STILL I ROTATE TOWARDS FRONT EN IT ALSO IS BOW LOCATED FEL ROUND WIR BOX GAP THE SAME ALL WY ROUND OH OH SCEW DRIVER OUT OF REACH LET GO OF LID HEY LOOK A K&N START AGAIN AS ITS LIFTED N WILL DRAW MASSES OF AIR IN AND A TIGHTENING ORDER KEEPING HAND ON LID AT ALL TIMES AS WEVE SEEN k&N THREE TIMES BACK TWO FRONT TO SIDES WHEN DOING SIDES SHOULD LOWER LID AND NOT MUCH RESISTANCE IF HARE AND GETTING TIGHT RELEASE THSS SCREW POKE K&N IT SEATS LID DROPS TIGHTEN TILL STOP THEN 1/4 NOW REASON I ENDORSING THIS AS YOU DO FURTHER MODS YOU DONT BUS FREER FLOWING FILTER JUST TRIM AS THERE S 3 OR FOUR DIFFERENT CUTS SO DO AS YOUR MATE DAVE SAID AND ITS FULL RACE SPEC SO NEEDS WIDE OPEN THROTTLE AND STILL COMPETES IF NOT MAKING MORE POWER THAN OTHER BRANDS ANY OTHER FILTER BASED ON ONE SPEC ANS NOT MANY TIMES ARE TWO BIKES THE SAME NOW THE DREADED EXHAUST EXPERTS AT THE READY A STUBBY ONE FIRM STATE ADDS 6HP POPPYCOCK A FULL ARROW OR AKRA MIGHT DO 6HP WHICH NEEDS REJETTING WITH IMM EFFECT... NOE I AINT KNOCKING STUBBIES AS PERSONALISING BIKE A BIG THING BUT FOR YOU STUBBY FANS DID ONE ON DYNOJET ROLLING SPOT ON CALIBRATION AS 3 MILES AWAY BIKE 8 HP MORE
MYSELY NEVER COULD AFFORD ONE AND ITS A BRAKE TESTER COS AIR AING GOING IN MOUTH FORCED OR ID BLOW AWAY I MESSED WITH A FEW N EVERY LAST ONE LEAN RIDER ANNOYED OR WORSE UP A JET SIZE OR RAISE NEEDLE IF CAN BUT HANG ON WE CAN CONTROL RICH N LEAN MY FLOATS WILL BE PERFECT ALWAYS CHECK FIRST AS OR HIGHER LOWER FLOAT NEEDLE PISTON STUCK IN OR OUT DONT ORDER 4 IF STUCK IN SPRAY WD40 O USE SOWING MACHINE OIL SUEPR LIGHT RUNS RIGHT IN GENTAL TAPS TURD TAP TURN NOW LONG NOSE PLIERS GRIP IT USINF HALFWAY DOWN NOSE NOT TIPS ROTATE GENTLE UNTIL TURNS FREE KEEPIN HOLOF PISTON CLOSE TO TOPOPERATET UP AND DOWNTAKE PIERES OFF PSUS DOWNSHOULD SPRING BACK IS=F NOY GIVE UP IT TOO CORRODED AND WILL STICK AGAIN .THEY OXIDISE AND TIP DROPS OFF ORB=DER SOME NOPE CLEAN AND YOU FEEL RAISED RING IT LOCATES ON SORRY FOR THIS BIT BUT DROP ONE YOUR ORDERING DAY THEY ARRIVE YOU SPOT IT ON FLOOR I TRIED EVERY WAY POSS ...POP IN MOUTH TATE THE FUEL MAN URRR NOW YOUR BECOMING A TRUE CARB TUNER NIBBLE IT LIGHTLY REMOVE LIKE DOG PEOPLE HAVE TO CHASE ME N SHOUT DROP IT ....IT HAS JUST RIGHT AMOUNT OF LUBE YET NOT NOO MUCH SO SLIPS FROM HAND IF THAT'S DISGUSTING THIS AINT FOR YOU NOW WE GOT TWO MORE PRESSURES BEFORE DO THAT SORRY WITH FLOAT BOWL ALL REMOVED BLOW DOWN FUEL PIPE LIKE BREATH TEST SLOW N STEADY AND THEY SILENT THAT STOPS FUEL CONNONG IN THATS WHY SLOAT HEIGHT CRUCIAL BEFORE REMOVE GENTLESHAKE TO RATTLE FOATS TRBOLW AS HARD AS CAN NO ROTATE GENLE RATTLE OF Csrbs slow sloe n stedy rotate as down draught jus before parallel with you all 4cloe t once in not adjust by pushing gentle sorry before do this one thats shuts last to wii see it sitting lower gentle push on tang bit holding needle if this is to basic stop reading coz your an expert so why start reading it cos an expert is takin the time out and as i said its for everyone to be able to do a better job than bloke in shop aint his bike se a fitter once we get to end you mechanic so all shuttins as closing lessen breath and you ll hear it there spot on chances of all ot unless fool been in having not read this to check rodats carb i=till tang resting on float needle tang but not moving it 3.5-5mmmake a noteaand look doen them from all angles one stands out massivly
th a throttle when upside down on left sde ure rhight side of each float last one im tired diaphragm off with caps if never done before quick you tube education do not give up no one wants that bike right more than you so tou will be more meticulous any muppet mentions the tube to measure a fitter no mechanic now we know bottom end good depending how long been on some go baggy too big as cant stand upside down needle pointing up wilts no we dont order 4 we magic them bact to origional shape do not refit if lose tiny bras jet and dont do a ball point pen mod boil kettle 2 or 3 dops wshing up liquid thats not magic kit cuts oil off em kettle and sinl yep cos if csn hold hand in too coldquick dip of finger glad to have out still have skin stand um plastic end hirst sd in carbs submerged inch or two above rubber n chill leave till water room temp more patience beter results i leave over night and thety strong stsnd up rubber certain temp to remove from mold water as described it has a memory and returns to original form

now is the time to rejet or im not doing hat mine are fine set of jets ill recomend wont have any fluffy ness thats a flot height of it s right on mine remember pressure weve sorted all of them back to yam spec those who drill slides crar on ruining em cos yo need heavier sprinngs and ouve drilled wrong hole

first and formost rule when rejetting you can rejet and improve stock filtr and exhaust
laptop died top site it saved it super knackered did that track bike whos response i posted night before finished a go kart with r6 motor all ram air system missin so just the two front holes feeding it behind seat so massive air turbulence running reasonable a go kart hate 4 wheels but an air shifter and nitros im on it just for my r n d nope to win and it will got live telemetry fitted n go proas hes flat out easy tune nope gotta get off ilot asap up needle afr figures im ruf nning i will release after but it is posible to have it on your road bike unlike films its not a red button push n fly its set at so many shots per second through nozzle/jet get that wrong only the once ill gladly share any tuners takin offence n want ice cream wars no problem dont be a worrier on here come tell me and youll get fffflipin gone these are my figures my research n development so its mine to do as i please and there so much nonsense given advice there's the classic ive tried to explain lads fitting dynojet kit confused why smaller its a lower number from a completely difference its some thing like oh oh idunno 12.7 or 17.2 i dunno n neither will they as i have a conversion
chart worked out done so long ago i cant remember nor do i care so dont jump on it if you know im wrong fine then in your head no pen your gonna do the equation every time yeah right
sorry for those interested but mates bread n butter lost like giving hacking code n threats yeah yeah ive had em
sabotage as fastest r6 out of 70 ran 52.4 pound tork 116.7 no tricks even on a worn scrub creating loads of friction race 27 psi

so ill carry on and yec folk hang fire ill tell you wht is mod why drop so much remember blowing card over are you more puckered or bigger lungs
so tomorrow PSYCHO'S questiion is gonna have to wait hes like stig phew he heard order of keys
PSYCHO is real stig aint stig wares white race suits PSYCHO has no finger prints we work closely in r and d dont we ...yes i do
ok so hes wrecked the table and carved What you tuning it for ?
hes a smart ass some times arnt i

so thing hard what are you tuning for road /fast road /trackday /tarckday n road /full race club level

i know you wanna go faster for example full face on the road you will hole pistons n melt it unless you can pin it wide open on street if you can your billy bull**** or the next rossi

fast road the lad who s comment is what he had and it a track bike him n few mates getting left behind a bit

not now any stupid quotes using info 20 years old alot has changed in air filters n pipes any specific requests like the yec kid i dont know the platorm if contact direct ill doit on here you right someine might need it ten years TOP MAN NOT JUST THINKING OF SELF PSYCHO IS STARING AT ME HEARD ME TYPE CANT DO I AGAIN YEC LOL BAD MISTAKE LOT OF BANGIN LAST TIME HE WAS THAT ANGRY HE PUT 4OVALPODS IN AIR BOX CARVED IN LID I PUT JET THESE BY 5.00PMPROMT THINK HE'S GHOST RIDER ALTHOUGH DID TAKE 2 CHASES N I GOT AWAY FOM DIDNT I YES WE DID .. WO

HOW ITS A SINGLE SEATER

SO STUDENTS THINK HARN WHT IS YOUR NIBR GONNE BU USED FOR ARE YOU A BUGER BAR WHEEI KID

LOCAL GHOST RIDER /RACER ANNOYED AS CANT PASS KID INFROTNT EVERY CORNER NEARKY STACJ IN


  1. IT S NOT A BLAG Si joint co worker with THE psycho AT "PSYCHO CARBS" 07821 747429
THOSE INTERESTED THERE WILL BE30HP NITROS
GARRET SNAILT3 TURBO N SUPERCHARGED
 

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NOW I KNOW LOTS WILL DISAGREE AND LOTS WILL NOT BE HAPPY AS I AM GOING TO RELEASE MY HUMBLE OPINION WHICH IS APPLIED I CAN EVEN OFFER A RULE OF THUMB GUIDE .
THE MAIN ISSUE WITH JETTING WITH THE GREATEST OF RESPECT TO EVERYONE WHO IS AT THE STAGE OF COMPETENCE AND CONFIDENCE HOWEVER I COMMONLY NOTICE THAT EVERYONE IS TRYING TO HELP IM UK BASED AND THE DUDES FROM ACROSS THE POND JET SIZING IS COMPLETELY DIFFERENT ITS NOT JUST A HEAT THING AS THE CARB EVERYONE ON HERE IS JETTING CAN GIVE YOU A FALSE FEELING THAT YOUR GETTING CLOSE THEN THE LOT GOES AND IT RAN BETTER STOCK IS PRESSURE WHICH IS MORE CRUCIAL THAN CONSIDERED COZ REMEMBER GUYS NEARLY EVERY OTHER BIKE ON CARBS YOUR LIFTING THE SLIDE , AND WERE DOING EVERYTHING BUT LIFT THE SLIDE FEDAIR PRESSURE INCREASE ENSINE IS SUCKING AIR THEN IS STRONGER THAN THE PRESSURE IN THE THE BLACK PLASTIC CAP ABOVE THE DIAPHRAGM AND DONT FORGET THE SPRING DONT EVER CHOPAN INCH A RING OR ANY OTHER THREAD REGARDING THIS AS ANY CAEC HAVE SLIDE CONTROL A VAC CARB DOES NOT LIKE TO BE SNAPPED OPEN IN FACT NO MATTER IF PERFECT AFR ALL WAY UP NEEDLE IS CORRECT TO WIDE OPEN WHICH IS DOABLE IN MANY DIFFERENT WAYS

JUST A QUICKIE ILL EXPLAIN THE YEC CARB KIE AHTS GOING ON HOW TO MAKE ONE BUT I COMMONLY NOTICE SOME GUYS N GALS HAVING GREAT CONVERSATIONS BUT IF THE FIRST POINT OF ANY DISCUSSION BOTH ARE USING A DIFFERENT SCALE LOADS GETTING CLOSE THEN ANOTHER THREAD POPS UP AND SO DOES YOUR HEAD GUYS ON II8 JET ARE DYNOJETS AND ONCONVERTION IS A KEIHIN 125 AND EACH JET SKIMS TOP OF FUEL NOT SAT IN IT YOU CAN DO THEN FUEL GOES THROUGH VAC AIR WAYS LIKE DOING FORWARD ROLL I SWIMMING POOL IS REASONABLE TRY IT BACKWARDS YOUR EYES EARS NOSE THROAT EXACTLY CARB WERE DEALING WITH IS LIKE OURSELVES WE HAVE A DIAPHRAGM MUSCLE PUSHES UP N DOWN LUNGS AIR FORCED OUT RELAX DIAPHRAGM DRAWS IN ALWAYS BEAR THAT POINT IN MIND SO FLOAT HEIGHT IS CRITICAL AS THAT CONTROL NOT ONLY LEVEL OF FUEL CREATES PRESSURE IN AIR PILOT SYSTEM ADDING MORE THROTTLE RESPONSE AND WILL OPEN QUICKER BE LEANER AND GO LIKE NEVER BEFORE ITS EASY IF YOU KNOW NOW THIS WILL CAUSE CONTROVERSY AND I AINT LOOKING FOR PEOPLE CORRECT DICTATION AND IF YOU ARE WHICH I WELCOME PIC A TINY ERROR BLOW IT UP N TELL ME I'M WRONG THEN MAN BETTER HAVE PROOF
AS I HAVE I DON'T BOAST NOR BRAG N COULD OK COZ I KNOW SOME ONE WILL KNOW BETTER I TELL YOU EVERYONE HE ARMCHAIR RIDER NO R6 OWNED COPY N PASTE SOME PROFESSOR THEN TRUST ME LIKE THE HECKLER AND BEST COMEDIAN EVER FOR EACH OF US ILL REVEAL LETS JUST UNDERSTAND IF WAS PONTOON/BLACK JACK FIRST CARD I TURN WILL BE AN ACE OF SPADES NOUGH SAID BUT IM TRYING TO GET EVERY ONE TO UNDERSTAND AS BEST TWO STROKE CARB TUNER WITH 30 PLUS YEARS
CANT GET EM RIGHT BECAUSE NO OTHER CARB ON PLANET DOES COB A TPS ON AS WELL WHICH WILL BE COVERED N ILL BE SKINT BOO HOO BUT ANYONE PREPARED TO TAKE CARBS OFF AND HAVE A GO AT JETTING NEEDS A RULE OF THUMB EVEN YOU DUDES WHO PROGRAMME POWER COMMANDERS
WELL WE GOT A WAPPING ECU JUST FOR TIMING STILL STATE OF THE ART AGAINST ANY ECU THE 2000 MODEL IF NOTICED MITSUBISHI...OHLINS OF THE ECU WORLD YET TPS NOT SET CORRECT IT KICKS BACK PUTS FEET UP N NOW AND THEN JOINS IN SET TPS ITS ON YOUR EVERY MOVEMENT RESPONDING LIKE A GREY HOUND OUT OF THE TRAP OR A TEASED DOG AND YOU GOT THE BALL ITS WATCHIN N PRE EMPTING SAME WITH ECU ANY ONE DROVE A CARB CAR IM OLD LOL RS2000 3.0S CAPRI STEEP HILL FOOT TO FLOOR OR .....FIND ITS STRONGEST PULL THEN PRESS SLOWLY AND TO GO UP FASTER SO I STRESS THEY DON'T SNAP WIDE OPEN MORE POWER SO AS I SAY PRESSURE THIS IS HOW I EXPLAIN IT COZ BIGGER JET AINT MORE FUEL NOW ALL EXPERTS ARE ROLLING ABOUT THEN I PUT TO YO IF YOU WERE TRYING TO BLOW A BIRTHDAY CARD OVER WOULD YOU OPEN MOUTH NOPE PUCKER THEM LIS AND FLATTEN THAT SUCKER .SO FOR INSTANCE THE YEC MOD RUNNING HOSE FROM FRONT MOUTH AS I REFER TO IT IS GOOD AND ILL SHOW CORRECT WAY WHEN WE KNOW WHY COST £20 $30 HAVENT FORGOTTEN YOU GUYS ACROSS THE POND ALL APPLIES APART FROM THE CHOICE OF THE FOR OR EIGHT BITS YOU GONNA BUY ITS RICH FEELING SPENDING ONCE AND IT GOING LIKE HELL .
HERE IS A GENUINE MESSAGE SENT TODAY SCARED ME FIRST LINE " WHAT HAVE YOU DONE TO THEESE CARBS!!! FIN THING JUST TRIED TO KILL ME IT RUNS CHAMPION!! YOU ARE A F----- LEGEND"
THIS 6 HAS AKRA N A PANEL K&N AS THERE'S' S 4 COMPLETELY DIFFERENT SHAPED AND DESIGN I KNOW AS HAVE NEW OLD STOCK BOXED SEALED BAGS ,,,WHAT A GEEK..THE YA -002 N YEP THERE OUT THERE THIS IS WHERE THE GUYS N GALS ACROSS THE WATER GOT IT GOOD THEY CAN ORDER A GOOD SECOND HAND ONE JUST OVER A TENNER FIT RIDE OFF BETTER .....FOOLS TRIED EM THE YA 6001 DARE ONE OF YOU TO CHAT THAT LINER CRACKIN CRAP... THEY CAN SO CAN NO OIL IN ENGINE BUT WED ALL CHECK WHO READ THE INSTRUCTIONS HOW TO FIT K&N NA JUST CUT FRONT OUT DAVE SAID

IF FOLLOWED VERY VERY GOOD FILTER AS IS RESPONSIBLE FOR AIR SPEED THROUGH CARB TOO
FAST N IT WONT HAVE TIME TO MIX WITH FUEL AND SLAM SLIDED WIDE OPEN SO OUT YOU TAKE IT TASS IT AWAY N STOCK RESPONDS BETTER IF READ COUPLE OF LINES INDUCTION NOISE AMAZING PEPED UP NOTICEABLY FROM READING THAT YOU KNOW TO REMOVE LID O RING RUBBER SEALAND BASE OAF AIR BOX SINGLE STRIP OF RUBBER IT MEETS AT PARTITION I PICK OUTSIDE EDGE END REMOVING AT FINISH START AT PARTITION AND LIFT OUT THEN ALL WAY ROUND BEFORE EVEN THINK OF FINDING A NICE BATO STORE THEN IN AS CHANGE FILTER MAY NEED EM NOW GROW THIRD ARM LOL SO YOU SIT II IN BOTTOM ADD LID NOPE PLACED IN BOTTOM THEN LID SEATED IS REA WHERE TOOK O RINK FROM YOU'LL FEEL IT POP IN AS FRONT OF FILTER POPS UPKEEP HAND LIGHTLY ON REAR AS WE FELT THAT GO IN EASE FILTER BACK INTO BOTTOM OF AIR BOX BACK IS STILL I ROTATE TOWARDS FRONT EN IT ALSO IS BOW LOCATED FEL ROUND WIR BOX GAP THE SAME ALL WY ROUND OH OH SCEW DRIVER OUT OF REACH LET GO OF LID HEY LOOK A K&N START AGAIN AS ITS LIFTED N WILL DRAW MASSES OF AIR IN AND A TIGHTENING ORDER KEEPING HAND ON LID AT ALL TIMES AS WEVE SEEN k&N THREE TIMES BACK TWO FRONT TO SIDES WHEN DOING SIDES SHOULD LOWER LID AND NOT MUCH RESISTANCE IF HARE AND GETTING TIGHT RELEASE THSS SCREW POKE K&N IT SEATS LID DROPS TIGHTEN TILL STOP THEN 1/4 NOW REASON I ENDORSING THIS AS YOU DO FURTHER MODS YOU DONT BUS FREER FLOWING FILTER JUST TRIM AS THERE S 3 OR FOUR DIFFERENT CUTS SO DO AS YOUR MATE DAVE SAID AND ITS FULL RACE SPEC SO NEEDS WIDE OPEN THROTTLE AND STILL COMPETES IF NOT MAKING MORE POWER THAN OTHER BRANDS ANY OTHER FILTER BASED ON ONE SPEC ANS NOT MANY TIMES ARE TWO BIKES THE SAME NOW THE DREADED EXHAUST EXPERTS AT THE READY A STUBBY ONE FIRM STATE ADDS 6HP POPPYCOCK A FULL ARROW OR AKRA MIGHT DO 6HP WHICH NEEDS REJETTING WITH IMM EFFECT... NOE I AINT KNOCKING STUBBIES AS PERSONALISING BIKE A BIG THING BUT FOR YOU STUBBY FANS DID ONE ON DYNOJET ROLLING SPOT ON CALIBRATION AS 3 MILES AWAY BIKE 8 HP MORE
MYSELY NEVER COULD AFFORD ONE AND ITS A BRAKE TESTER COS AIR AING GOING IN MOUTH FORCED OR ID BLOW AWAY I MESSED WITH A FEW N EVERY LAST ONE LEAN RIDER ANNOYED OR WORSE UP A JET SIZE OR RAISE NEEDLE IF CAN BUT HANG ON WE CAN CONTROL RICH N LEAN MY FLOATS WILL BE PERFECT ALWAYS CHECK FIRST AS OR HIGHER LOWER FLOAT NEEDLE PISTON STUCK IN OR OUT DONT ORDER 4 IF STUCK IN SPRAY WD40 O USE SOWING MACHINE OIL SUEPR LIGHT RUNS RIGHT IN GENTAL TAPS TURD TAP TURN NOW LONG NOSE PLIERS GRIP IT USINF HALFWAY DOWN NOSE NOT TIPS ROTATE GENTLE UNTIL TURNS FREE KEEPIN HOLOF PISTON CLOSE TO TOPOPERATET UP AND DOWNTAKE PIERES OFF PSUS DOWNSHOULD SPRING BACK IS=F NOY GIVE UP IT TOO CORRODED AND WILL STICK AGAIN .THEY OXIDISE AND TIP DROPS OFF ORB=DER SOME NOPE CLEAN AND YOU FEEL RAISED RING IT LOCATES ON SORRY FOR THIS BIT BUT DROP ONE YOUR ORDERING DAY THEY ARRIVE YOU SPOT IT ON FLOOR I TRIED EVERY WAY POSS ...POP IN MOUTH TATE THE FUEL MAN URRR NOW YOUR BECOMING A TRUE CARB TUNER NIBBLE IT LIGHTLY REMOVE LIKE DOG PEOPLE HAVE TO CHASE ME N SHOUT DROP IT ....IT HAS JUST RIGHT AMOUNT OF LUBE YET NOT NOO MUCH SO SLIPS FROM HAND IF THAT'S DISGUSTING THIS AINT FOR YOU NOW WE GOT TWO MORE PRESSURES BEFORE DO THAT SORRY WITH FLOAT BOWL ALL REMOVED BLOW DOWN FUEL PIPE LIKE BREATH TEST SLOW N STEADY AND THEY SILENT THAT STOPS FUEL CONNONG IN THATS WHY SLOAT HEIGHT CRUCIAL BEFORE REMOVE GENTLESHAKE TO RATTLE FOATS TRBOLW AS HARD AS CAN NO ROTATE GENLE RATTLE OF Csrbs slow sloe n stedy rotate as down draught jus before parallel with you all 4cloe t once in not adjust by pushing gentle sorry before do this one thats shuts last to wii see it sitting lower gentle push on tang bit holding needle if this is to basic stop reading coz your an expert so why start reading it cos an expert is takin the time out and as i said its for everyone to be able to do a better job than bloke in shop aint his bike se a fitter once we get to end you mechanic so all shuttins as closing lessen breath and you ll hear it there spot on chances of all ot unless fool been in having not read this to check rodats carb i=till tang resting on float needle tang but not moving it 3.5-5mmmake a noteaand look doen them from all angles one stands out massivly
th a throttle when upside down on left sde ure rhight side of each float last one im tired diaphragm off with caps if never done before quick you tube education do not give up no one wants that bike right more than you so tou will be more meticulous any muppet mentions the tube to measure a fitter no mechanic now we know bottom end good depending how long been on some go baggy too big as cant stand upside down needle pointing up wilts no we dont order 4 we magic them bact to origional shape do not refit if lose tiny bras jet and dont do a ball point pen mod boil kettle 2 or 3 dops wshing up liquid thats not magic kit cuts oil off em kettle and sinl yep cos if csn hold hand in too coldquick dip of finger glad to have out still have skin stand um plastic end hirst sd in carbs submerged inch or two above rubber n chill leave till water room temp more patience beter results i leave over night and thety strong stsnd up rubber certain temp to remove from mold water as described it has a memory and returns to original form

now is the time to rejet or im not doing hat mine are fine set of jets ill recomend wont have any fluffy ness thats a flot height of it s right on mine remember pressure weve sorted all of them back to yam spec those who drill slides crar on ruining em cos yo need heavier sprinngs and ouve drilled wrong hole

first and formost rule when rejetting you can rejet and improve stock filtr and exhaust
laptop died top site it saved it super knackered did that track bike whos response i posted night before finished a go kart with r6 motor all ram air system missin so just the two front holes feeding it behind seat so massive air turbulence running reasonable a go kart hate 4 wheels but an air shifter and nitros im on it just for my r n d nope to win and it will got live telemetry fitted n go proas hes flat out easy tune nope gotta get off ilot asap up needle afr figures im ruf nning i will release after but it is posible to have it on your road bike unlike films its not a red button push n fly its set at so many shots per second through nozzle/jet get that wrong only the once ill gladly share any tuners takin offence n want ice cream wars no problem dont be a worrier on here come tell me and youll get fffflipin gone these are my figures my research n development so its mine to do as i please and there so much nonsense given advice there's the classic ive tried to explain lads fitting dynojet kit confused why smaller its a lower number from a completely difference its some thing like oh oh idunno 12.7 or 17.2 i dunno n neither will they as i have a conversion
chart worked out done so long ago i cant remember nor do i care so dont jump on it if you know im wrong fine then in your head no pen your gonna do the equation every time yeah right
sorry for those interested but mates bread n butter lost like giving hacking code n threats yeah yeah ive had em
sabotage as fastest r6 out of 70 ran 52.4 pound tork 116.7 no tricks even on a worn scrub creating loads of friction race 27 psi

so ill carry on and yec folk hang fire ill tell you wht is mod why drop so much remember blowing card over are you more puckered or bigger lungs
so tomorrow PSYCHO'S questiion is gonna have to wait hes like stig phew he heard order of keys
PSYCHO is real stig aint stig wares white race suits PSYCHO has no finger prints we work closely in r and d dont we ...yes i do
ok so hes wrecked the table and carved What you tuning it for ?
hes a smart ass some times arnt i

so thing hard what are you tuning for road /fast road /trackday /tarckday n road /full race club level

i know you wanna go faster for example full face on the road you will hole pistons n melt it unless you can pin it wide open on street if you can your billy bull**** or the next rossi

fast road the lad who s comment is what he had and it a track bike him n few mates getting left behind a bit

not now any stupid quotes using info 20 years old alot has changed in air filters n pipes any specific requests like the yec kid i dont know the platorm if contact direct ill doit on here you right someine might need it ten years TOP MAN NOT JUST THINKING OF SELF PSYCHO IS STARING AT ME HEARD ME TYPE CANT DO I AGAIN YEC LOL BAD MISTAKE LOT OF BANGIN LAST TIME HE WAS THAT ANGRY HE PUT 4OVALPODS IN AIR BOX CARVED IN LID I PUT JET THESE BY 5.00PMPROMT THINK HE'S GHOST RIDER ALTHOUGH DID TAKE 2 CHASES N I GOT AWAY FOM DIDNT I YES WE DID .. WO

HOW ITS A SINGLE SEATER

SO STUDENTS THINK HARN WHT IS YOUR NIBR GONNE BU USED FOR ARE YOU A BUGER BAR WHEEI KID

LOCAL GHOST RIDER /RACER ANNOYED AS CANT PASS KID INFROTNT EVERY CORNER NEARKY STACJ IN


  1. IT S NOT A BLAG Si joint co worker with THE psycho AT "PSYCHO CARBS" 07821 747429
THOSE INTERESTED THERE WILL BE30HP NITROS
GARRET SNAILT3 TURBO N SUPERCHARGED
Dude, fucking WHAT? First, chill out with the Caps Lock. Secondly, punctuate. And proofread. I got about three paragraphs in before I gave up entirely on trying to make out what you were trying to say. Were you on the piss, mate?
 

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WOW, talk about blast from the past..... Just had a notification pop up in my email saying someone replied to this thread.

I swapped the motor in one with a blown motor a few years back for a buddy, 1st start ran great, put the airbox and all the hoses back in place and it did the same thing you're explaining. Was pulling my hair out too, then I had the airbox off to check the sync and it ran great again, so I put the airbox stuff back on 1 piece and hose at a time. everything was great until I connected the crankcase vent hose. Apparently the high mileage motor I swapped in had too much blow by. Hose attached to airbox ran like crap, hose disconnected ran smooth. Ended up putting a catch can on the vent hose and blocking off the nipple on the airbox, and he rode it for a year or so like that before he sold it. Not really the right solution but he was undecided if he was going to keep it anyways, so it was the cheap way out w/o paying me to do a complete rebuild.
Hey Shush, thought I might try to see if I could get a quick answer before I have to go through trial and error; do you remember which direction the idle mix screws turn for which purpose? I.E. turning in richens the mix, or leans it? I’m at the final stage of this thing finally. Replaced the carb joints (the rubber boots between carbs and engine) and it solved the vacuum leak that I eventually found. Now it’s running fantastic, just a tiny bit rich, and I want to solve that before I put the tank back on
 

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Dude, fucking WHAT? First, chill out with the Caps Lock. Secondly, punctuate. And proofread. I got about three paragraphs in before I gave up entirely on trying to make out what you were trying to say. Were you on the piss, mate?

DUDE I AN'NT 13 MY DISABILITIES DONT ALLOW ME TO PUNCTUATE AND OTHER KAK YOU WRITE SO I CALL YOU OUT WHAT PREVIOUS SUCCESS TUNING DO YOU HAVE .ILL ANSWER NONE

AS DOMINATED 2019 THUNDERSPORT CLASSIC SUPERSTOCK CLASS ON BSB CALENDAR ACCUSE ME OF BEING PISSED NONE OF THAT YOU WOULD SAY TO MY FACE KEYBOARD WARRIOR WITH NO IDEA SHIT SKILLS AND A FASTER BIKE WONT HELP A KNOW IT ALL FOOL

YOU GO ON ABOUT PUNCTUATION YET AFTER A FULL STOP . START NEXT SENTENCE WITH AND ITS EITHER OR MUG WERE YOU JEALOUS PISSED OR HIGH WHAT MODEL DO YOU HAVE AND WHATS IT RWP?
 

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Hey Shush, thought I might try to see if I could get a quick answer before I have to go through trial and error; do you remember which direction the idle mix screws turn for which purpose? I.E. turning in richens the mix, or leans it? I’m at the final stage of this thing finally. Replaced the carb joints (the rubber boots between carbs and engine) and it solved the vacuum leak that I eventually found. Now it’s running fantastic, just a tiny bit rich, and I want to solve that before I put the tank back on
 

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ANTI CLOAK WISE RICH CLOCKWISE LEAN GIVE ME DETAILS AIR FILTER PIPE FULL OR SLIP ON /MAKE

ANY CARB KIT N HAS IT 4 DEGREE ADVANCER I WILL GIVE YOU SPOT ON SETTINGS MAKING IT CRISP LIKE 4 CROSSERS CAN THIS BE DONE AS PERSONAL MESSAGE AS SOME CLOWN STATES 14-1-1 IS OPTIMUM AFR
13-1-1 IS OPTIMUM NICE ONE ALL SKITTISH IN SECOND WILL MOVE TILL 3RD MIGHT NEED DAMPER ON ROAD ON TRACG RISE FORKS ,HAPPY TO HELP WON 2019 THUNDERSPORT CLASSIC SUPERSTOCK RAN AS UNDERCARD ON BSB CALENDAR ALL POLE ALL WINS LAP RECORDS SMASHED I KNOW MY SHIT
 
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