Yamaha R6 Forum: YZF-R6 Forums banner

1 - 20 of 64 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,
I recently replaced the stock filter of my yamaha r6 2006 and instead of noticing improvement on performance the bike rides strange.
When i slow down close to a stop light, the bike goes close to stall, i have to use the clutch and more gas to get it going. Anyone had a similar problem?
Any suggestions?

Thanks,
CK
 

·
Rotten Hot Sweat Balls
Joined
·
509 Posts
If it a High Flow air fliter with a stock exhaust, your air to fuel ratio may be off making to bike run to lean. Hope this helps.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,144 Posts
Yeah, im with the above post...with just throwin a filter on there your tune is going to be off and you're really not benefiting at all with that kind of filter. You'll need a pc3 to tune it and to actually get a benefit with it you'll want to go with a full exhaust as well as the pc3. At minimum you'll want a slipon, filter, and pc3. Until then you should go back to the stock filter...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah, im with the above post...with just throwin a filter on there your tune is going to be off and you're really not benefiting at all with that kind of filter. You'll need a pc3 to tune it and to actually get a benefit with it you'll want to go with a full exhaust as well as the pc3. At minimum you'll want a slipon, filter, and pc3. Until then you should go back to the stock filter...
Can u recommend any place to buy the pc3? Is it necessary to get the slipon excaust?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts
the computer cant compensate for that extra little bit of air? why the hell is there an o2 sensor then
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
154 Posts
the computer cant compensate for that extra little bit of air? why the hell is there an o2 sensor then
There is more than just an "extra little bit of air." There is usually at least a 20% increase in air flow with an aftermarket filter, and that is with a restrictor. If he isn't using a restrictor, then there is even more than that.
 

·
VVVVVVRRRRRRRRMMMMMMMMMMM
Joined
·
221 Posts
Dude don't listen to them. ( No offense ) Chances are you took of that air restrictor. You know that little box that was on the stock filter. Well, either way you need to let the bike run for a little while just idling. It has to relearn to run believe it or not. You may lose some bottom end with that restrictor off also. So before you waste 300$ just leave the bike on its side and start her up get her running for a few minutes.. You may have to give her some gas occasionally to keep her from dieing. Try not to give her gas unless it is about to die. shut her off.. turn it back on run it.. repeat like 2 more times. Then go for a ride and see if it is fixed. Worth trying rather than blowing 300$ for an air filter in my opinion.
 

·
FAST 07 RED R6
Joined
·
200 Posts
I agree with the above post!...i put my k&n air filter on 6 months before i bought my exhaust and pc...i had no problems with it...but i believe i let it ran before taken it for a spin!!...i had the same problem your having but only with my car and when the computer realized there is more air it adjusted the ratio and i was fine!!
 

·
I eat YOUR MOM
Joined
·
2,111 Posts
if that is the only change you have made, it should adjust automaticly.

but..... keep in mind, your bike will perform better with a PCIII even if it is bone stock. if you plan on doing any other A/F type mods you will need one anyway.

common A/F altering mods..... such as....
Race filter
slip on exhaust
full exhuast
velocity stacks
slide stop kit
ext........
 

·
Redline.......White Light
Joined
·
751 Posts
HMMM, keep running it until it "works itself out". Sounds like a great idea
You guys are lucky you have titanium valves, or you would be looking into rebuild kits here shortly.

Find a friend with an a/f gauge/meter (you can pick one up for about $70) Check what that is 14.6-14.9 is ok. The STOCK O2 only compensates for elevation and temp changes(air weighs only 1.2 times as much as air at 5k feet, it is as miniumal from 40 degrees to 95 degrees).

In conclusion, yeah, the o2 will probably compensate some, but after all the compensating is done, you will be still running lean, which leads to running a hotter engine. Enjoy.
 

·
VVVVVVRRRRRRRRMMMMMMMMMMM
Joined
·
221 Posts
HMMM, keep running it until it "works itself out". Sounds like a great idea
You guys are lucky you have titanium valves, or you would be looking into rebuild kits here shortly.

Find a friend with an a/f gauge/meter (you can pick one up for about $70) Check what that is 14.6-14.9 is ok. The STOCK O2 only compensates for elevation and temp changes(air weighs only 1.2 times as much as air at 5k feet, it is as miniumal from 40 degrees to 95 degrees).

In conclusion, yeah, the o2 will probably compensate some, but after all the compensating is done, you will be still running lean, which leads to running a hotter engine. Enjoy.
Good thing this guy knows what he's talking about. LOL Come on what you are suggesting is that by buying a PC you are actually increasing fuel output which in your theory lowers combustion temperatures. Which more fuel does mean lower temperatures but the only way to do that would be to increase your injectors output. By buying bigger injectors. Dude give me a break. Sure a PC does mess with the fuel timing pulses and also advances and retards ignition timing but other than that.. Yeah. Nothing. Our bikes will compensate for any AIR FILTER change. The bikes computer will throw a check engine light long before anything should get damaged due to melting of TITANIUM valves. Really think about what you're suggesting before wasting our time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
332 Posts
First of all. try adjusting your idle speed. Changing just a slip-on changed my idle speed. A quick adjustment and it runs fine.

Secondly, If a K&N filter changes things so dramatically, why are maps posted on the dynojet site say for "aftermarket or stock" filter. That seems to say that the PC III program is the same regardless of what filter you use. Right? hmmmmmm

gary
 

·
Hey Guy
Joined
·
5,290 Posts
First of all. try adjusting your idle speed. Changing just a slip-on changed my idle speed. A quick adjustment and it runs fine.

Secondly, If a K&N filter changes things so dramatically, why are maps posted on the dynojet site say for "aftermarket or stock" filter. That seems to say that the PC III program is the same regardless of what filter you use. Right? hmmmmmm

gary
This isnt a carburated bike. Adjusting your idle speed isnt that easy.

I would think that since the bike isnt a MAF type computer, it wouldnt correctly compensate. Are you guys saying that the bike will re-map itself?
Then again, lean is lean and the bike should know what to do when its lean. But, to what extent? If this was always true, we wouldnt ever need the PCIII

Also, a slip on on your bike is almost worthless. The real muffler is under the bike. Not the silencer.
 

·
Redline.......White Light
Joined
·
751 Posts
Good thing this guy knows what he's talking about. LOL Come on what you are suggesting is that by buying a PC you are actually increasing fuel output which in your theory lowers combustion temperatures. Which more fuel does mean lower temperatures but the only way to do that would be to increase your injectors output. By buying bigger injectors. Dude give me a break. Sure a PC does mess with the fuel timing pulses and also advances and retards ignition timing but other than that.. Yeah. Nothing. Our bikes will compensate for any AIR FILTER change. The bikes computer will throw a check engine light long before anything should get damaged due to melting of TITANIUM valves. Really think about what you're suggesting before wasting our time.
all i have to saw is WOW.

Good job. If you want a lesson on how a PC3 and injectors work PM me, duty cycles are changed as well, bigger injectors can be put on with lower duty cycles to get the same output. Please stop trying to be smart.

Get me you dyno sheet and a/f ratio and then we will have another conversation.

OUR BIKES DON'T HAVE MAF SENSORS.......so it only knows the burned mixture as coming out, not going in. :dunce:

Plus i never said anything about MELTING valves, they are probably WHITE by now though, i know you plugs are already. When you get enough experience to even rebuild an engine, get back to me.
 

·
Redline.......White Light
Joined
·
751 Posts
ohh and ps, a PC3 actually leans out your a/f, that is how you make more power with it bone stock BUT to a safe level.

14.9= acceptable
15.1= bye bye engine in 20-30k
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
332 Posts
I have an "S", so i dont have that "box-o-crap" under my bike. My slip-on removed the cat that is in the stock can. Not exactly worthless in my case. And i dont have carbs either............

To the OP, look in your owners manual and find where it tells you how to adjust your idle speed. There is a knob that you turn. Mine is on the right side of the motor and i can adjust the idle with a twist of my thumb and index finger.

gary
 

·
Do work son!
Joined
·
365 Posts
Dude don't listen to them. ( No offense ) Chances are you took of that air restrictor. You know that little box that was on the stock filter. Well, either way you need to let the bike run for a little while just idling. It has to relearn to run believe it or not. You may lose some bottom end with that restrictor off also. So before you waste 300$ just leave the bike on its side and start her up get her running for a few minutes.. You may have to give her some gas occasionally to keep her from dieing. Try not to give her gas unless it is about to die. shut her off.. turn it back on run it.. repeat like 2 more times. Then go for a ride and see if it is fixed. Worth trying rather than blowing 300$ for an air filter in my opinion.
True. You shouldn't need to go get a PC3 just because you changed the air filter.
 

·
I eat YOUR MOM
Joined
·
2,111 Posts
Secondly, If a K&N filter changes things so dramatically, why are maps posted on the dynojet site say for "aftermarket or stock" filter. That seems to say that the PC III program is the same regardless of what filter you use. Right? hmmmmmm

gary
just to clarify...... filters.. stock, after market....as far as the map they will be similar but not exact.

the maps on the dyno jet website are pre made generic maps that will help and very close to the best A/F ratio. and they are better than no map, but they are not by any means the proper or best set up for your specific situation. the PCIII works "best" with a custom map tuned by an authorized power commander tuning center. every bike will be slightly different, even if they are both stock (same make, year and model), or even if they have the same exact mods. theres a lot of factors that can come into play. but if you run a stock air filter and lets say a BMC race.... for optimum performance and true proper tune the maps will be different. as far as the map they will be similar but not exact.

will you, me or the average rider notice the difference... maybe, but probably not.........

but numbers are numbers and if you run it on a dyno you will see the difference.

like i said above..... is a PCIII a necessity with just a K&N filter as you only mod..... probably not.
 
1 - 20 of 64 Posts
Top