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After replacing stock air filter with k&n

10K views 63 replies 23 participants last post by  redisdeadrideblue 
#1 ·
Hi,
I recently replaced the stock filter of my yamaha r6 2006 and instead of noticing improvement on performance the bike rides strange.
When i slow down close to a stop light, the bike goes close to stall, i have to use the clutch and more gas to get it going. Anyone had a similar problem?
Any suggestions?

Thanks,
CK
 
#3 ·
Yeah, im with the above post...with just throwin a filter on there your tune is going to be off and you're really not benefiting at all with that kind of filter. You'll need a pc3 to tune it and to actually get a benefit with it you'll want to go with a full exhaust as well as the pc3. At minimum you'll want a slipon, filter, and pc3. Until then you should go back to the stock filter...
 
#7 ·
the computer cant compensate for that extra little bit of air? why the hell is there an o2 sensor then
 
#9 ·
Dude don't listen to them. ( No offense ) Chances are you took of that air restrictor. You know that little box that was on the stock filter. Well, either way you need to let the bike run for a little while just idling. It has to relearn to run believe it or not. You may lose some bottom end with that restrictor off also. So before you waste 300$ just leave the bike on its side and start her up get her running for a few minutes.. You may have to give her some gas occasionally to keep her from dieing. Try not to give her gas unless it is about to die. shut her off.. turn it back on run it.. repeat like 2 more times. Then go for a ride and see if it is fixed. Worth trying rather than blowing 300$ for an air filter in my opinion.
 
#10 ·
I agree with the above post!...i put my k&n air filter on 6 months before i bought my exhaust and pc...i had no problems with it...but i believe i let it ran before taken it for a spin!!...i had the same problem your having but only with my car and when the computer realized there is more air it adjusted the ratio and i was fine!!
 
#11 ·
if that is the only change you have made, it should adjust automaticly.

but..... keep in mind, your bike will perform better with a PCIII even if it is bone stock. if you plan on doing any other A/F type mods you will need one anyway.

common A/F altering mods..... such as....
Race filter
slip on exhaust
full exhuast
velocity stacks
slide stop kit
ext........
 
#12 ·
HMMM, keep running it until it "works itself out". Sounds like a great idea
You guys are lucky you have titanium valves, or you would be looking into rebuild kits here shortly.

Find a friend with an a/f gauge/meter (you can pick one up for about $70) Check what that is 14.6-14.9 is ok. The STOCK O2 only compensates for elevation and temp changes(air weighs only 1.2 times as much as air at 5k feet, it is as miniumal from 40 degrees to 95 degrees).

In conclusion, yeah, the o2 will probably compensate some, but after all the compensating is done, you will be still running lean, which leads to running a hotter engine. Enjoy.
 
#13 ·
Good thing this guy knows what he's talking about. LOL Come on what you are suggesting is that by buying a PC you are actually increasing fuel output which in your theory lowers combustion temperatures. Which more fuel does mean lower temperatures but the only way to do that would be to increase your injectors output. By buying bigger injectors. Dude give me a break. Sure a PC does mess with the fuel timing pulses and also advances and retards ignition timing but other than that.. Yeah. Nothing. Our bikes will compensate for any AIR FILTER change. The bikes computer will throw a check engine light long before anything should get damaged due to melting of TITANIUM valves. Really think about what you're suggesting before wasting our time.
 
#14 ·
First of all. try adjusting your idle speed. Changing just a slip-on changed my idle speed. A quick adjustment and it runs fine.

Secondly, If a K&N filter changes things so dramatically, why are maps posted on the dynojet site say for "aftermarket or stock" filter. That seems to say that the PC III program is the same regardless of what filter you use. Right? hmmmmmm

gary
 
#15 ·
This isnt a carburated bike. Adjusting your idle speed isnt that easy.

I would think that since the bike isnt a MAF type computer, it wouldnt correctly compensate. Are you guys saying that the bike will re-map itself?
Then again, lean is lean and the bike should know what to do when its lean. But, to what extent? If this was always true, we wouldnt ever need the PCIII

Also, a slip on on your bike is almost worthless. The real muffler is under the bike. Not the silencer.
 
#45 ·
how the hell is 14.9 acceptable?
my RR was in the 12.6 range stock.
most AMA bikes run around 13.8 for optimum power, but they get rebuilt often.
13.8 and over is to lean for a street bike that u want to last.

but you are correct that bikes are rich stock, dont let the PAIR throw off your AF readings, and it will.
 
#18 ·
I have an "S", so i dont have that "box-o-crap" under my bike. My slip-on removed the cat that is in the stock can. Not exactly worthless in my case. And i dont have carbs either............

To the OP, look in your owners manual and find where it tells you how to adjust your idle speed. There is a knob that you turn. Mine is on the right side of the motor and i can adjust the idle with a twist of my thumb and index finger.

gary
 
#22 ·
Dude. I do not need dyno runs or to get the exhaust sniffed to know that an O2 sensor can SENSE when the oxygen levels are too high and need to add more fuel. Mass air flow sensor or not. For that matter how much oxygen going in doesn't matter as long as O2 levels coming out are low enough. That is the function of an O2 sensor! After graduating from an automotive school and spending oh.. I dunno weeks (literally) doing dyno runs on high performance vehicles I would say I have enough experience with tuning engines to know that changing a damn airfilter is not going to burn valves or plugs. LOL My dad's friend alcohol car.. now that does make some damn heat and burns shit all of them time.. constantly tuning EACH cylinder like it is it's own engine. We are talking about an air filter.. not a turbo or blower. 20% more air at !!most!!! is not going to lean out a engine enough to probably make a measurable enough temperature difference. Now, if I were to be selling the K&N air filters to make money.. sure I would say BUY!!! a PC3!! Because then you will be making more horsepower! Then you can say that maybe the filter helped make a difference. Because without it.. you wont make hardly any.
 
#25 ·
Give it a rest. One year at retard school does not give you experience. If you paid attention in "oh crap im 23, what am i going to do with my life" school (aka: UTI) then you would know a/f is the DECIDING factor of the original question. If you a/f is off, O2 isnt compensating. Enough said.
 
#24 ·
the key word is MAY decrease. if you are stalling and sputtering, that is a key sign. Get your current a/f and that will tell all. a cheap gauge can do that, hook into the wire off of the o2 and get the reading. if it isnt between 14.5 and 14.9 i would get it checked out. IE put stock back on until you can afford it. But that is just my .02

My current setup is a t-tuner, bmc, stock slip-on WITH exup. I run a pc3. I run 14.8-14.9 depending on rpm. Waiting for ti-force to come out.
 
#27 ·
You act like "oh crap I do not know what to do with my life" and doing something about it is wrong. So, I went to school. LOL at least I was doing some thing rather than nothing. I don't know your experience.. don't care.. To put this into english.. There is a line

|-10.... 1, 0, 1,... +10| This would be your computers ability to compensate with fuel trim. So lets say you aren't at the limit of your fuel trim with adding fuel, which is +10 in this model. Through a couple of cycles of getting the bike stable it might be able to add enough fuel without the use of an additional computer. If it ends up off the chart.. then it throws a light at you. That's when you have a problem. I am done with this subject. Try it or not.
 
#28 ·
Well, i was only saying that to rub a little salt in it. All this is in joking fun. If you take this forum or me seriously, there is a problem. I am glad to see you aren't selling crack with a GED and riding motorcycles......big no no. I am not older(much) than you. I am 24 with a master in electrical engineering. i am not by far the smartest here, or anywhere. I just test problems, as when i was adding things to my bike. The big argument was no pc3 with a t-tuner pipe....... i was getting like 15.7:1 at some rpm and up to 16+. i proved that to be wrong. Same with the bmc filter. Just because it runs "OK" does not mean the engine is doing what it should. 87 octane in a turbo car with higher compression might start the car, but detonation is still there under load.
 
#31 ·
while running the risk of getting into it with Rocket666 again like on the T-Tuner midpipe discussion, I will give my two cents.

First of all, an air filter change should not require a PC3, BUT any bike can get benefits out of one, especially with a proper tune. My understanding is that these bikes come a little bit rich right out of the box, so adding more air with a filter should actually bring them closer to that 14.7 a/f ratio that is desired for best power, but there are no gaurantees until you actually check it. As for needing bigger injectors, that is not the case at all. Your current fuel system should be sufficient to support up to 140 hp with proper tuning. Beyond that, you will need a bigger pump and injectors (or just buy a fricken R1). For those not in agreement here, I ask, how the hell do you explain bikes running 30 shots of nitrous on the stock fuel system and not blowing? There is a lot to be had in proper tuning...and if you want to go really wild, get the YEC kit ecu for the ability to change fuel, ignition timing, and redline.

So, i would suggest something simple as a first attempt, turn up the idle a little bit. While the computer should take care of it, again, there are no gaurantees. Seriously though, if all you did was the filter and not a slip on, you should be fine. I do not recommend letting your bike idle for long periods of time either, so I guess rocket and I agree there. If you do plan future mods though, I would suggest a PC3 or the new Bazzazz tuner, or even the Factory Pro Teka SFI. I hear really good things about that one.
 
#34 ·
U know there was a recall on the airbox on the 06 right? You don't need a pc3 for just a k&n oem airfilter. There is several maps in the brain on the fuel injected bikes. :secret
 
#36 ·
14:7 is the perfect ratio. But that actually being achieved is rare and on top of that they run a little on the lean side out of the crate for performance:fact
 
#37 ·
red is dead. how do u suppose i turn up the idle?:dunce:
 
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