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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As I know there are literally hundreds upon hundreds of threads regarding tire psi, I am wondering about the ideal setup, front and rear, for my application. I live in a VERY hot climate and by 10am the pavement/roads/asphalt are 100+ degrees. I usually run 38 rear and 34 front....but I have found that I feel a whole lot less "confidence" when rolling around and taking turns on a Fred Flinstone inflated boulder. I obviously can't, and wouldn't want to get low on turns and twisties while commuting or on the street. The center of my Pilot Pures which have 7k miles on them looks almost bald/evenwith the wear markers. But the side are FRESH rubber lol :(

My question is this...seeing that there are already 7k miles on the tires...and seeing that the centers are worn to chit.....would it be safer and smarter to run maybe something like 32 rear and 32 front? Or even lower? I figure ion dropping the PSI a bit, I will make a wider patch of contact with the hot pavement and maybe I can get more grip hence feel more confident.

Does this sound logical? Any drawbacks to running 32r/32f or 32r/34f?

 

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As I know there are literally hundreds upon hundreds of threads regarding tire psi, I am wondering about the ideal setup, front and rear, for my application. I live in a VERY hot climate and by 10am the pavement/roads/asphalt are 100+ degrees. I usually run 38 rear and 34 front....but I have found that I feel a whole lot less "confidence" when rolling around and taking turns on a Fred Flinstone inflated boulder. I obviously can't, and wouldn't want to get low on turns and twisties while commuting or on the street. The center of my Pilot Pures which have 7k miles on them looks almost bald/evenwith the wear markers. But the side are FRESH rubber lol :(

My question is this...seeing that there are already 7k miles on the tires...and seeing that the centers are worn to chit.....would it be safer and smarter to run maybe something like 32 rear and 32 front? Or even lower? I figure ion dropping the PSI a bit, I will make a wider patch of contact with the hot pavement and maybe I can get more grip hence feel more confident.

Does this sound logical? Any drawbacks to running 32r/32f or 32r/34f?




Im in Arizona, I run 36 up front and 40 in the back. I have Michelin Pilot Road 2. Back tire had 28K miles when I replaced it and the front is still going strong at about 30K. Going to have to replace it in the next week or 2 though. Are your miles mostly commuting? Do you track at all? If you don't track, just get a tire with a harder compound and it will last longer.
 

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If your tire is worn, it's worn, and there ain't shit any kind of PSI can do to fix that. Replace the tire, and if 7k miles isn't enough for you (This still blows my mind as I get ~200 miles out of a rear tire) then buy sport cruiser tires and be done with it. You don't need the grip levels a Pilot Power can provide if you're a commuter. And please spare everyone the "Well I'm zee most awesome ryda in the twisties" speech, because I can assure you just about every track rider out there, regardless of group, can run faster than "canyon carving pace" with a set of worn out Shinko's.
 

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The Power Pure is a hypersport tire; 7k is great mileage. If you are at the wear bars in the center, it's done. Time to replace. You can drop the pressure to 32r if you want. Yeah, it will increase the contact patch. It will also finish off whatever rubber you have left on there in short order.

Also, 38psi is not an unreasonable pressure. Not what I would call a "fred flinstone boulder". That tire is super sticky and still has plenty of grip with 38 psi in it, especially on nice hot asphalt. Any lack of confidence you feel is due to your skills as a rider.
 

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Unless you're out there really bombing through canyons, to the point that you're getting enough heat in the tire to melt and ball up the rubber, a couple of PSI isn't going to make any difference.

If you're just commuting, the biggest thing is to make sure you stay on top of the pressures. Check on it once every week or two. If you're checking every few months, chances are you're spending a good amount of time riding around at 20 PSI or something stupid, which is terrible for wear and grip.

FWIW, I always run around 36f/34r on the street. I don't understand why you'd run more air in the rear than in the front. Just trying to get better wear?
 

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That's what the OEMs recommend on the stickers; the rear is always higher. I've never really understood why either.
For load carrying capacity while riding 2 up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Unless you're out there really bombing through canyons, to the point that you're getting enough heat in the tire to melt and ball up the rubber, a couple of PSI isn't going to make any difference.

If you're just commuting, the biggest thing is to make sure you stay on top of the pressures. Check on it once every week or two. If you're checking every few months, chances are you're spending a good amount of time riding around at 20 PSI or something stupid, which is terrible for wear and grip.

FWIW, I always run around 36f/34r on the street. I don't understand why you'd run more air in the rear than in the front. Just trying to get better wear?
I am super anal...I check my psi EVERY SINGLE MORNING cuz ya...I commute and value my life

Fallis - Spec calls for 42r/36f....that is why I run what I run. I only dropped it down a bit from that (factory spec)...my mindset is to further drop it. (To 32r/34f)....hence my question if it is safe and beneficial to do so.

And no chit a new tire would be ideal. Cmon now!
 

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I am super anal...I check my psi EVERY SINGLE MORNING cuz ya...I commute and value my life

Fallis - Spec calls for 42r/36f....that is why I run what I run. I only dropped it down a bit from that (factory spec)...my mindset is to further drop it. (To 32r/34f)....hence my question if it is safe and beneficial to do so.

And no chit a new tire would be ideal. Cmon now!
Is it safe and beneficial to lower your PSI in an effort to save tread life on a tire that's already worn out?

Do you always go full retard on Thursday, or is today just an exception?

:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Is it safe and beneficial to lower your PSI in an effort to save tread life on a tire that's already worn out?

Do you always go full retard on Thursday, or is today just an exception?

:D
An exception.....it's common knowledge to never go full retard.:secret

Save tread life? Ummmmm. Hooked on phonics MAY work for you!? Not sure though. The whole point of the thread Sherlock is to get more grip out of the almost new rubber on the sides of my 7k pures. I'll spell it out easier for you in my next thread though;)
 

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Is it safe and beneficial to lower your PSI in an effort to save tread life on a tire that's already worn out?

Do you always go full retard on Thursday, or is today just an exception?

:D
John, have you seen his previous threads...........DON'T FEED ZE TROLL!
 

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I am super anal...I check my psi EVERY SINGLE MORNING cuz ya...I commute and value my life

Fallis - Spec calls for 42r/36f....that is why I run what I run. I only dropped it down a bit from that (factory spec)...my mindset is to further drop it. (To 32r/34f)....hence my question if it is safe and beneficial to do so.

And no chit a new tire would be ideal. Cmon now!
And this post is contradicting as shit. If you are as anal as you say you are, you wouldn't be trying to extend tire life on a bald tire - after all, you value your life, right?

In short, manufacturer's come up with these PSI guidelines (Both on cars/bikes) considering the vehicle and the load it is carrying. For liability purposes, Yamaha (And all other brands) recommend you always run max tire PSI. That's why you'll see most rear tire PSI to be about 40-42, as most 180/55s and 190's have that max PSI rating.

But... you don't NEED the max PSI rating. Why?

Look at the load carry capacity of the rear tire. It's probably about 700lbs or so. Figure the front tire is rated for 400-ish. You're at 1100lbs of curb weight. Your R6 weighs, what, 450 with a tank of gas? Add 250 for a rider (American's are obese as a whole, plus gear weighs a bit). That's not 1100lbs. Hell, even adding a 250lb passenger doesn't take you to 1100.

Tire load capacity decreases as tire PSI decreases. So, that rear tire at 34 PSI will not be rated for the same weight as 42 PSI. But you're not carrying a passenger. And you don't need that load carrying capacity. So what do you get by running 42 PSI if you never take a passenger with you? You flat spot your rear tire extremely fast, because your contact patch is much smaller than it would be at 32-34-ish PSI. Commuting on a sport bike will always wear out the center first, but over inflating, which you are doing using 42PSI riding by yourself, will only exaggerate this.

Take a look at your car tire. Probably something like rated for 2,000lbs at 44PSI. Say you drive a Civic. Does you Civic weigh 8,000lbs? Uh, no. Do you need 44PSI in the tires? Uh, no. That's why when you open up the door jam on the drivers side, you'll see the ACTUAL tire pressures you're supposed to run. Not what is stamped on the sidewall of the tire. Obviously, changing tire sizes throws that out the window. The reason Yamaha still recommends 42PSI is because the possibility of carrying a passenger. Running too low PSI (Say 28, or 30 on the rear) while carrying a passenger will cause the tire carcass to roll around (Giving the squirmy feeling), creating too much heat, and can cause a tire blow out. Low tire PSI is 99% of the cause for tire blow outs on the road. The nail didn't cause your tire to blow out. The nail caused a leak, which caused your PSI to drop...and THAT is the reason your tire exploded.

I feel have have contributed way too much, and I will have to step up my smart ass replies for the next month to make up for this.

Sheesh.
 

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John, have you seen his previous threads...........DON'T FEED ZE TROLL!
I really don't think he's a troll, just ignorant. Ok, a lot ignorant. :bowroll
 

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An exception.....it's common knowledge to never go full retard.:secret

Save tread life? Ummmmm. Hooked on phonics MAY work for you!? Not sure though. The whole point of the thread Sherlock is to get more grip out of the almost new rubber on the sides of my 7k pures. I'll spell it out easier for you in my next thread though;)
It's cute that you recommend hooked on phonics to me, and you're the buffoon wanting to lower tire PSI to so you can ride on your bald tires longer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
But you're not carrying a passenger. And you don't need that load carrying capacity. So what do you get by running 42 PSI if you never take a passenger with you? You flat spot your rear tire extremely fast, because your contact patch is much smaller than it would be at 32-34-ish PSI. Commuting on a sport bike will always wear out the center first, but over inflating, which you are doing using 42PSI riding by yourself, will only exaggerate this.
This is exactly my theory and understanding of how the tire wore to its current state. 100% agree. In this quote you state that should I have run 32-34ish then this would have not happened. What I am asking to do (run 32-34) is exactly what you just recommended.

I am also a light rider who never 2 ups unless my 100lb girlfriend wants to go for a stroll. So ya, I had the rear and front high up at like 38/34 as I wanted good gas mileage but in turn, got the bald spot.

Light rider plus sticky pure tires plus high psi ='s ya....FML:jacked
 

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Your tire will still ALWAYS wear out in the center before the edges if you use your bike to commute...unless you work somewhere deep in the mountains and you ride roads like Deals Gap everyday. But running the proper PSI, for the load you're carrying, will help minimize it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Your tire will still ALWAYS wear out in the center before the edges if you use your bike to commute...unless you work somewhere deep in the mountains and you ride roads like Deals Gap everyday. But running the proper PSI, for the load you're carrying, will help minimize it.
Thanks. So In theory though.....at this point....before I purchase new tires, would you say it would be beneficial to drop them to 32/32? (The idea being yes of course the middle is bald and that's the main point of contact to the asphalt, but wouldn't dropping them help with getting more of that good side rubber to the ground? Hence a wider contact path? Despite the middle of the tire being bald.)
 

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This is exactly my theory and understanding of how the tire wore to its current state. 100% agree. In this quote you state that should I have run 32-34ish then this would have not happened. What I am asking to do (run 32-34) is exactly what you just recommended.

I am also a light rider who never 2 ups unless my 100lb girlfriend wants to go for a stroll. So ya, I had the rear and front high up at like 38/34 as I wanted good gas mileage but in turn, got the bald spot.

Light rider plus sticky pure tires plus high psi ='s ya....FML:jacked
If you're commuting, you're always going to square off the tires. The only way you're going to wear out the shoulders faster than the center is if you run the tires exclusively on the track. There's really no way to get perfectly even wear across the whole profile.

PSI isn't going to change where on the tire it wears by much - it's really a function of the style of riding you're doing. If you're doing any significant amount of commuting, the tire is gonna get square.

Running a lower pressure may get you a little more grip, and probably won't effect wear or mileage much, so have at it.
 
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