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Fuller
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
is there some sort of trick to bleeding the rear brake? I have bled it numerous times and still have no pressure....ive pumped the rear brake continuously and pressure doesnt seem to build up at all....i can feel the brake pads moving when i press the brake lever, but pressure wont build, and fluid flows out of the bleeder nut like there is no air....any ideas?
 

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What technic are you useing?

Cant help if we dont know what your doing wrong.....

Tell us every step from start to finish
 

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Fuller
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
old fashioned way....here is quick version

pump pump pump....pump pump pump...hold lever down while opening bleeder nut, tighten bleeder nut....repeat as necessary....= no pressure

when releasing bleeder nut sufficient fluid seems to be coming out, thats why i find it hard to believe that there still can be air in the line...literally ive probably repeated that process for about an hour...used to take 15min at the most
 

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Ok well sounds fine in technic.

Why did you break the lines in first place replaced with ss lines???

Make sure all the washers are in place and that the lines are all tight?

Sometimes it takes time depending on where the air is trapped in the line.

What I tend to do is "pump, pump pump" then hold for a min before releasing the bleader screw.

p.s. make sure the bleeder screw is tight after each rep.

If all fails wait some time and retry.

keep us up to date....
 

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Fuller
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i was putting on a new sprocket, and had everything bolted ready to go, all i had to do was torque down caliper bolts...well one got cross-threaded and snapped inside. rather than trying to hassle of getting it out, i opted to but a whole new one off of ebay for like $18.... so in order to put the new caliper on i had to break the line....now i have no pressure??? i know the caliper is good because literally, it is like brand new....and i can feel the pads sqeezing against the rotor when pressing the brake lever, just pressure wont build and hold...

i guess ill try taking the line off again and double checking tightness. thanks.
 

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Tourque on the banjo bolds are like 13lbs, so dont go crazy on them.

Normaly the rear takes so much less time then the front, so it sounds funny that this should be taken so long.

Did you add fuild? If so you didnt mix differnt types right?

Dot 3 and DOT 5 do not mix. 5.1 is ok to mix with 3 though.
 

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p.s. make sure that when u are tightening up the bleeder bolt you keep steady pressure on the brake lever do not let the brake lever come back up before tightening the bolt. This will bring air back into the line.
 

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Fuller
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
the dealer gave me dot 4 fluid and told me i could pour it right in..no problems, does that sound right? just wanted to double check with you... im not goona try to bleed again until later tonight after i get out of work....i'm goona try taking off the line and making sure it is tight... and then bleeding again...
 

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Fuller
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ok...took the line off the caliper again, and made sure the brass washers in correct place, and made sure they were extremely tight, still cannot build pressure....and when i open bleeder bolt it flows smooth...still dont understand. are there any other methods?
 

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Fuller
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ok im convinced that there has to be some kinda of air bubbles in my master cylinder that just wont come out. how do i bleed the master cylinder? I figure i would start at the master cylinder then re bleed the brake line. do i bleed it at the banjo bolt?
 

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Ok well dot 3 and 4 should mix fine it's dot 5 that is a silacone base and should not be mixed.

You can bleed at the master by the banjo bolt, but if you have gone through the fluid in the cup and kept a speady line of fluid going though the cup and line into the master there should be no air bubbles in the master.

What I mite try doing if I was having so much trouble:

I would take the rear calp off the bike and hand it high above the bike in as straight and line up as possible. Keeping the line as straight as possible to let any air bubbles flow up the line twards the rear calp. I would let this sit for about 20 mins.

I have an extra rear disk so I would use this but place something into the brake pads to keep them from clossing pump the master and bleed from this point.

This is like a last option for me that is if I was having this much trouble.
 

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Fuller
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
ok....i went and bought a vaccum bleeder. best $40 ive ever spent. took literally 3 minutes. there must have been air in the master cylinder because it took about 3 full bleeds with the vaccum bleeder....but now all is well and going riding....thanks for your input and help.
 

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Awsome, enjoy the ride!
 
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