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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I have a stock 08 R6. I need to change my brake discs, pads, brake lines maybe the caliper and master cylinder. I would like to have better brake performance but not sure what to go for. money is not an issue and I would like to go with the top of the line. I appreciate your help and advice in advance.

Thank you.
 

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Stunt Rider
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Brembo RCS 19!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Rubber side down
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Any steel braided lines and good brake fluid are essential. The rcs 19 is pretty nice too! Pad choice will depend on whether you're riding street, doing trackdays, or racing. And there is a good selection of rotors to choose from, but plenty race on stock.
 

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Make good choices.
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Hello,

I have a stock 08 R6. I need to change my brake discs, pads, brake lines maybe the caliper and master cylinder. I would like to have better brake performance but not sure what to go for. money is not an issue and I would like to go with the top of the line. I appreciate your help and advice in advance.

Thank you.
What, specifically, is the problem you are trying to solve?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks for the advice's so far. I will be using the bike for riding on the street.
This might be a stupid questions for you guys but after changing the master cylinder
can i change the levers mostly to ASV or no?? thank you again
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
the problem I am trying to fix is that last time i was riding the bike my rear brakes stopped working completely and the front ones had a very weak stopping power. I was doing 30kph pulled the brakes no response whats so ever i almost rear ended a car in front of me. not sure when i was supposed to change the pads or discs as i bought the bike second hand a year ago so i while am at it might make it better as well.
 

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"The Dude abides .. "
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has the fluid EVER been changed ? and if you are aggressive with the brakes, steel lines will likely solve the issue. I can't see working em hard enough on the street to ever be an issue. But fluid that has not been changed in years, that has attracted a fair amount of moisture, will create a spongy feel over a long ride (possibly).

Many of us RACE (as in mega hard braking forces from 150+ mph multiple times a lap) on stock rotors, stock Brembo master cyl, and just upgraded lines and pads.
I prefer CORE Moto lines, and EBC brake pads. But OEM rotors, calipers and mc are pretty darn good.

if you want mega stopping power? $6000 set of brembo mono block calipers, $700 320mm oversized Brembo rotors, and a brembo 19x18 (or the one they have that is adjustable mentioned above) will do very nicely. Pad choice is tricky.. as if you are just rolling around town at 60mph or less, it will be difficult to get sufficient heat into the pads to grab really well.
 

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Yeah Science!
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has the fluid EVER been changed ? and if you are aggressive with the brakes, steel lines will likely solve the issue. I can't see working em hard enough on the street to ever be an issue. But fluid that has not been changed in years, that has attracted a fair amount of moisture, will create a spongy feel over a long ride (possibly).

Many of us RACE (as in mega hard braking forces from 150+ mph multiple times a lap) on stock rotors, stock Brembo master cyl, and just upgraded lines and pads.
I prefer CORE Moto lines, and EBC brake pads. But OEM rotors, calipers and mc are pretty darn good.

if you want mega stopping power? $6000 set of brembo mono block calipers, $700 320mm oversized Brembo rotors, and a brembo 19x18 (or the one they have that is adjustable mentioned above) will do very nicely. Pad choice is tricky.. as if you are just rolling around town at 60mph or less, it will be difficult to get sufficient heat into the pads to grab really well.
Gotta have all the best parts to look good riding around town :lmao
 

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Meh
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the problem I am trying to fix is that last time i was riding the bike my rear brakes stopped working completely and the front ones had a very weak stopping power. I was doing 30kph pulled the brakes no response whats so ever i almost rear ended a car in front of me. not sure when i was supposed to change the pads or discs as i bought the bike second hand a year ago so i while am at it might make it better as well.
Um, that's just something broken with your brakes. You don't need an upgrade, you need to fix whatever is wrong. That stock stuff is pretty excellent - your is just not working correctly.

Mostly likely just need new fluid, pads, or a caliper or cylinder rebuild kit. Worst case, you're out $100-200, rather than the thousands you'd spend upgrading to aftermarket stuff that would give you a very small improvement over properly working stock stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
fluids have been changed twice so far. one of them was recently so i don't think that's the issue
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
it is not for the bling factor as you might think or to look good. where I live some people in cars have no issue knocking you over intentionally or going in front of you and hard stop so you can rear end them if they see it is funny, that is why i wanted the extra stopping power.
 

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it is not for the bling factor as you might think or to look good. where I live some people in cars have no issue knocking you over intentionally or going in front of you and hard stop so you can rear end them if they see it is funny, that is why i wanted the extra stopping power.
Ummm... the stock brakes have plenty of power. They have enough to throw you over the bars at 100mph.
here ya go... all stock brakes (pads, m/c, and lines) in this pic. Notice the 6' skid mark coming off the front tire.

You don't put race brakes on a streetbike.
You can, however, learn to use the brakes properly. If you're letting cars brake check you... the problem is you, not the brakes.
Being a bike is at least 1/4 the width of a passenger car... you can go right around any brake checker real easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I do see your point about the brakes. I will try to fix whatever the issue is with the stock ones but as far as the cars its not brake checking. when a car over speed from the slow lane and overtake you within less than 2-1 meter gap between you and the car and hit the brakes as hard as they can so you will collide that's intentional and not called brake checking anymore.
 

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Get Some..!
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If money is not an issue, take your bike to a professional and have lines, pads and even calliper/master rebuild if necessary. Then drop some $$ on defensive rider training or track days and actually learn to use your brakes properly. All the braking power in the world wont help if you if lack the skills...

Also, why would people try to knock you off for no reason? Is it the way you ride? Leave yourself more room and don't upset other motorists riding like a tool. If the threat is still there, you should be asking yourself why you are riding in those conditions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
unfortunately we do not have defensive rider training or track days open for the public.
I can assure you it is not the way i ride. crazy drivers are a common issue on the streets where i live and some young people think it is cool to harass bikers. you could say it is the lack of education and the way the town people frown on bikers. Society here frowns upon bikers and they think all of them are thugs or someone society is better off without. city is trying to fix all the above it is moving slowly in that direction but who knows how long it will take.
 

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Get Some..!
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unfortunately we do not have defensive rider training or track days open for the public.
I can assure you it is not the way i ride. crazy drivers are a common issue on the streets where i live and some young people think it is cool to harass bikers. you could say it is the lack of education and the way the town people frown on bikers. Society here frowns upon bikers and they think all of them are thugs or someone society is better off without. city is trying to fix all the above it is moving slowly in that direction but who knows how long it will take.
May I ask where you live? Maybe it's time to park up for a little while and stick to 4 wheels if that's safer... If you are going to keep riding knowing the risks involved, like I said leave more room and don't upset other motorists riding like a tool. Maybe you are a sensible rider setting a good example, I don't know?
Either way, make sure you wear some good gear and practice your emergency braking. (Front only! Its a sportsbike and if you're applying the front brakes properly, the rear will do fcuk all except take you're focus off the front.) Oh and good luck...
 

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"The Dude abides .. "
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it is not for the bling factor as you might think or to look good. where I live some people in cars have no issue knocking you over intentionally or going in front of you and hard stop so you can rear end them if they see it is funny, that is why i wanted the extra stopping power.
move the brake lever perch further from the throttle grip.. this will give you more LEVERAGE on the brake "lever". you may have to adjust the reach with the adjuster knob, as you will now be grabbing the lever with your fingers at a further away area of the lever now.. but this is a sure fire way to get more "power" with the same amount of effort from your finger pull.

also may wanna try a new set of aggressive sintered brake pads. Sometimes pads can get glazed over, and don't provide good "bite" but that usually occurs early on if the pad doesn't bed-in to the rotor correctly. Most pads today, have little problem with that, and bed in fast. Stock pads are more organic and will not provide as hard a stop as a track or race oriented pad. But... beware that some race pads need a lot of heat to work correctly. read the info about the pad before making a choice.

i can assure you, that the stock system, if working correctly, has more than sufficient power to stop the bike faster than you can possibly stop, without lowsiding or flipping yourself over the bars (if you pull hard enough). If the lever is coming back to the bars, something is wrong.
You said you have bled the system, does it still come back to the bar? it's possible the master cyl needs rebuilt. the rubber plungers wear out, especially if you leave old fluid in there for years and many thousands of miles of riding. But if you have a solid lever when sitting still.. it's fine.
If the lever comes back too far after a little riding (when it was firm at a stop) the rotors could be bent. This is pushing the pads out, and the lever comes back too far as you initially pull the lever, as the pistons have to go out enough to make up the gap.
That's about it ..
 
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