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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Quick update...pulled the oil pan off, and it was a good thing I did. Found the rest of that clutch plate and some bits and pieces of crap. Now for the slightly more concerning part. As seen in this picture, it appears as there is a dowel that got smashed to shit, and here are the remnants. You can see in the attached video that the clutch plate didn't go down without a fight. Overall everything seems fine. I sat there with a light for about an hour looking over every little thing that I could from underneath and didn't see anything obvious. I felt around and nothing felt loose at all either. I pulled the oil cooler and everything checks out there. You can also see in the video the transmission appears to be fine. I ran it through every gear and it all checked out. My next plan of attack is to get the new clutch in, get some fresh oil and filter in, and fire her up once more with everything cleaned out. I will keep the tank off and try the mechanics stethescope to the top of the engine in case that noise is still around.

 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Oil pump chain looks like it has some slack?
Yes it does, which concerned me at first, but everywhere that I could find said the same story that it seems like it is way too loose, but as long as you can't pull it off the sprockets, that is just how they are.
 

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Do you want to do a deep dive in there to find where the dowel parts came from? I'm on the fence about it being worth it.

Maybe epoxy a few really strong magnets to the bottom of the pan to try to catch any more metal lurking around? Check and see if the rest of it is in the oil filter? Run it till the wheels fall off?
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I like the magnet idea. If there is any more clutch plate, it won't help with that since they're aluminum, but still probably a good idea just for anything else. I think I will throw the new filter on, get some fresh oil in there, put it all back together, and fire it up and see how bad the sound is yet. If I get ambitious while I am waiting for the clutch to show up, I might take a stab at pulling the valve cover off. I had an 2003 R1 before that I got pretty damn good at pulling the throttle bodies off to get to the valve cover and did the valve adjustment, but this looks to be a little more intensive than the older one. I am still confident I could do it, I will just have to take it a little slower and more precautious.
 

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I like the magnet idea. If there is any more clutch plate, it won't help with that since they're aluminum, but still probably a good idea just for anything else. I think I will throw the new filter on, get some fresh oil in there, put it all back together, and fire it up and see how bad the sound is yet. If I get ambitious while I am waiting for the clutch to show up, I might take a stab at pulling the valve cover off. I had an 2003 R1 before that I got pretty damn good at pulling the throttle bodies off to get to the valve cover and did the valve adjustment, but this looks to be a little more intensive than the older one. I am still confident I could do it, I will just have to take it a little slower and more precautious.
The rest of that dowel is probably ferrous metal and it's in there some where.

When I do valves, I drop the motor. That's just me though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
This won't make much of a difference, I will still do the magnets, but the only thing that might indicate that that was all there was is if you look at the picture, it looks like it started from the center of the dowel and broke outwards, so there may be the core of the dowel still stuck in whatever hole it came from. Also, I forgot to upload it, but I did take a video of the oil pan and all the goodies it contained, and there were definitely some very small (less than pea sized) chunks of material, forgot to check to see if they were steel or not, but could be part of the dowel as well. More to come tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Another update, I took an endoscope up from underneath and didn't see anything. Got in and pulled the valve cover off, everything looked clean, checked clearances, a couple a little out of spec, so I will be adjusting those and bringing them into spec. Also checked cylinders, and they are kinda covered in carbon. Depending on how the rest of this goes, may be something to be addressed. I rotated the engine by hand and there wasn't any crazy sound, so must only happen at operating speeds. Clutch is supposed to show up Wednesday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
New update. Got the new clutch in and everything put back together. I notice it will still make noise, but the noise goes away at idle when its all warmed up. See the video, don't mind the slight ticking, I don't have the headers on all the way. But you can still definitely hear the noise. I also rode it around the apartments quick, and notice that it doesn't make the noise when there is load on the engine revving up. When you let off, the noise presents itself. That reminds me of chain like behavior...The cam chain is nice and tight with a brand new cct with the blue dot on it. I'm mentally preparing myself for taking the engine apart, but wanted to just do one last check in case there is any possibility it could be something else. Does anyone know of any good write ups for disassembling an engine?

 

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New update. Got the new clutch in and everything put back together. I notice it will still make noise, but the noise goes away at idle when its all warmed up. See the video, don't mind the slight ticking, I don't have the headers on all the way. But you can still definitely hear the noise. I also rode it around the apartments quick, and notice that it doesn't make the noise when there is load on the engine revving up. When you let off, the noise presents itself. That reminds me of chain like behavior...The cam chain is nice and tight with a brand new cct with the blue dot on it. I'm mentally preparing myself for taking the engine apart, but wanted to just do one last check in case there is any possibility it could be something else. Does anyone know of any good write ups for disassembling an engine?

I thought the write up in the service manual for disassembly was pretty good. Occasionally you get a set of instructions like 'remove motor' and the 'to install motor reverse order', but, does the manual really have to hold your hand the whole way?

If you have the right tools and a 4th grade education, don't be scared of getting into it. On the other hand, if you are averse to using the right tool or think you don't need a torque wrench because 'you know how tight is tight' you might want to farm the work out. The motors are high strung and like to be put together 'just so'. In the words of that Italian car guy, it isn't your daddy's tractor.

You'll get it bud. I have faith.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Another small update, dropped the engine. Have a couple quick videos of observations. First one is of the water pump drive gear. Seems to have some play in it, but it looks like that play was designed for, so that is not quite as much of a worry. The other is the gears in the transmission. Also have a little play left to right...is that normal? Teardown of engine planned for tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Update: Have the engine completely tore down, only thing not out of it is the last gear set for the transmission and the shifting block. I have been following the service manual and checking things and most things seems to be in spec. I am ordering new piston rings while I'm in there because the second ring was out of spec a little bit. I didn't plan on plastigauging any of the bearings/bushings, primarily because I tried moving everything, and it all seemed quite tight, and there were no markings or scores in any of the surfaces. Wrist pins were all nice and tight. The main block does not have nearly as many gouges as the bottom half did probably from pieces of clutch that were flying around, which makes me feel a little better.

One interesting find that I did find was that on one of the valves, one of the shaft retaining cotters was popped up and didn't seem to want to fit back into place. This was on an intake valve, which the original noise seemed to come from the upper rear portion of the engine. I'm going to pull all the valves, clean them up real nice, and get new cotters in there.

After cleaning deposits off of things, the metal underneath is damn near flawless, almost looks new.
 

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Replace the valve guide seals while you are in there and mix some two stroke oil and molybdenum disulfide grease to lube the valve and valve guides when you reassemble. Make sure to keep everything clean, no pollen, dirt etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Had the engine completely tore down. Cleaned up the valves and got everything good there. Got new piston rings in. Cleaned the pistons. Got everything put back together aanndd...we still got the noise. One thing I didn't do is plastigauge the bearings, but none of them had any sign of damage on them. The noise definitely comes from the top of the engine, I'm thinking a tad closer to the middle than anything. Cam chain was good along with the new tensioner. I'm beginning to run out of ideas. Could a bearing be bad and not be able to feel it by hand? Once I got everything in place, I tried moving the crank in all sorts of different directions and it did not budge at all (linearly, not rotation). I've got a guy in town I'll take it to
to see if he can listen and take his best guess, but yeah, about out of ideas. Run it longer until the problem really makes itself known?
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I didn't measure anything with the piston itself, just visual, everything looked clean and normal. Almost looked new once I cleaned things up
 
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