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Remind Me Later
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144 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hope I dont agitate any of yall regulars with this post as im sure its the same as many previous to it, i just wanted to avoid sifting through dozens of other threads with a search even though i gained a small bit of knowledge doing so. im currently in afghanistan and like most people deployed i plan on spending a good chunk on my bike (wife willing hah). i want to hit chuckwalla sometime after getting comfortable again upon my return and just wanted a little bit of advice as to what add ons i should invest in, thanks in advance.
 

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track junkie
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2,257 Posts
Hope I dont agitate any of yall regulars with this post as im sure its the same as many previous to it, i just wanted to avoid sifting through dozens of other threads with a search even though i gained a small bit of knowledge doing so. im currently in afghanistan and like most people deployed i plan on spending a good chunk on my bike (wife willing hah). i want to hit chuckwalla sometime after getting comfortable again upon my return and just wanted a little bit of advice as to what add ons i should invest in, thanks in advance.
i'm sort of a minimalist by necessity. the total of my mods include; armour bodies race fairings, puig windscreen, spiegler lines, vesrah rjl pads and a fresh set of dunlop q2 tires.

you don't really need much to get your bike on the track. in years past, i was just using my street fairings and taping over the lights. save your $$ for track time instead...


s3aturnr
 

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Remind Me Later
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144 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
hah thats seriously alot easier than dishing out a bunch of dough, i feel dumb, i felt obligated to spend all this money just to get it prepped
 

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Meh
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9,250 Posts
Agreed about the minimalist approach. The thing that's going to have the biggest effect on getting faster is more time on the track. Tank grip pads are pretty useful for what you pay for 'em. Once you do some track days you'll start to figure out what stuff is really useful for you.

But like S3aturnR said, just get some good tires, tape that bish up, and get out there! CVR is GREAT track. If you want some company in the pits, feel free to hit me up when you're back stateside and looking to get out there.
 

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Remind Me Later
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144 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
tires being the obvious no pattern soft ones meant for the track correct? how much do they usually run? and the obvious taping of the lights and removal of mirrors and suit what else is usually required?
 

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Remind Me Later
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144 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Agreed about the minimalist approach. The thing that's going to have the biggest effect on getting faster is more time on the track. Tank grip pads are pretty useful for what you pay for 'em. Once you do some track days you'll start to figure out what stuff is really useful for you.

But like S3aturnR said, just get some good tires, tape that bish up, and get out there! CVR is GREAT track. If you want some company in the pits, feel free to hit me up when you're back stateside and looking to get out there.
thanks man im definitely going to have to, i know ive probably acumulated a handful of bad habits riding on my own up the twisties, cant wait to improve :flex:
 

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zomething different
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8,430 Posts
+1 to what was suggested. i recommend that you get your suspension dialed up properly. best 30 bucks i spent on my bike. :fact

and thanks for your service! :cheers
 

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Remind Me Later
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144 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
man i keep hearing about this whole suspension thing, im sure mine isnt where it should be seeing as how i bought it used and never messed with anything on it, can a local dealer do that for me?
 

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zomething different
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8,430 Posts
man i keep hearing about this whole suspension thing, im sure mine isnt where it should be seeing as how i bought it used and never messed with anything on it, can a local dealer do that for me?
just get it set up at the track if you don't have a local suspension guy. there's also some very good info in the suspension settings section.
 

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SLO Rider
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71 Posts
+1 ^

tires being the obvious no pattern soft ones meant for the track correct? how much do they usually run? and the obvious taping of the lights and removal of mirrors and suit what else is usually required?
Actually, you don't really need to spend the money on slicks just yet. Once you move to slicks you also need warmers, probably a generator to run them, etc... Costs skyrocket. Stick to the sticky street rubber for now. The Dunlop Q2's come highly recommended at about $199 a set (Review by bay area racer), and I run the Bridgestone BT-003RS (the street/track hybrid, not the DOT race version) at about $279 a set. Both of these can be run without warmers and can be used on the street between track days. There are also Pirelli equivalents to these, I'm just not familiar enough with them to recommend models. I'm a bottom of the pack A group rider and am just thinking of moving up to slicks. Pace wise, tires still aren't my limiting factor. My brain is.

You typically need to tape all glass (most headlights have plastic lenses these days), but I always tape up all my lights anyway. The exact rules will vary between track day providers. Same with mirror removal. I take mine off and use some zip ties to hold the fairing. Some people spend money on mirror block off plates, some people just leave them on and tape them up. You'll want to remove a couple fuses for your headlight and signals. Don't want to cook the tape onto the lens and you can usually see functioning lights through the tape which sort of defeats the purpose (they'll then ask you to remove the fuses).

Get some boots with ankle protection. Not just padding, but some sort of support system to prevent hyper-extension. Suit, good gloves, and you'll want to look into a back protector if the suit doesn't have one built in. Maybe an evaporative cooling vest for the hot days out in the desert.

Most important thing to remember about trackday advice is that everyone will have a different opinion and everybody will think everyone else is wrong. You just have to take all advice with a grain of salt and analyze it in your own way. I've found people describe things in vastly different ways and it can be really confusing deciphering some peoples advice. Take bits and pieces from everyone you talk to and never assume any one person knows everything.
 

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track junkie
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2,257 Posts
tires being the obvious no pattern soft ones meant for the track correct? how much do they usually run? and the obvious taping of the lights and removal of mirrors and suit what else is usually required?
nope. start out with a decent street/track day tire. you won't be able to keep heat in a true race tire just yet (unless you're a savant on a bike)

+1 to what was suggested. i recommend that you get your suspension dialed up properly. best 30 bucks i spent on my bike. :fact

and thanks for your service! :cheers
oh, yeah! suspension!!! get that shit set up by someone who knows what they're doing. best money i ever spent at a track day.

also, thank you for your service. come back safe...


s3aturnr
 

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Remind Me Later
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144 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
thanks for all the good info guys, definitely saved me from spending a grip before i even needed to hah. definitely looking forward to being back in the states with broads on cell phones trying to run me over, i think im safer here lol
 

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Parts Pimp
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26,472 Posts
tires being the obvious no pattern soft ones meant for the track correct? how much do they usually run? and the obvious taping of the lights and removal of mirrors and suit what else is usually required?

Like the guys said, a Q2 or a power pure is a wonderful track day tire to start off on. ALL the BMW's at california superbike school run Q2's.

I'm on slicks and have been for a while. I made that move much earlier than most, but I was pretty good on the track right off the bat. Like Saturn said tho, if you aren't a savant, good street tires is plenty for you.

Personally, I woulda crashed 20 times by now riding on lesser tires. I am realizing this now after my last TD where the coach told me I should NOT be leaving darkies on a 600 out of EVERY turn on the track. :laugh

OP, what kind of gear do you have? You need gauntlet gloves, full suit, or 2 piece suit, race boots, back protector, and a SNELL rated helmet. Gear costs thousands, so you aren't out of the woods yet.

Stay safe homebro! And if you find any of that Afgani Kush in those mountains.. LOL
 

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Remind Me Later
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144 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
my gear is pretty minimal, i use my combat boots, an icon lid <- gross, an alpine stars leather helius jacket, and some cheap alpine gloves. i think my biggest expense is buying new gear when i get back, i plan on getting a new shoei lid i now realize how squid i was buying an icon lid hah, i was loathing putting that thing on everyday. live and learn! i wish the marine corps/my wife would let me smoke hah!
 

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Registered
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870 Posts
Like the guys said, a Q2 or a power pure is a wonderful track day tire to start off on. ALL the BMW's at california superbike school run Q2's.

I'm on slicks and have been for a while. I made that move much earlier than most, but I was pretty good on the track right off the bat. Like Saturn said tho, if you aren't a savant, good street tires is plenty for you.
you run slicks? I'm afraid to use them, keeping true operating temp in those tires is hard (at track days at least), you really need to by flying. Try a race DOT it'll work better for ya =)
 

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www.1seven1.com
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2,064 Posts
Good comments. I think the best way to start is find a race-prepped bike someone else has slaved over, add some good street tires and go play. Remember, a $3000 bike with $3000 with of aftermarket parts is still pretty much a $3000 bike.

-D
 

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Knee drags YOU!
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1,167 Posts
Personally, I woulda crashed 20 times by now riding on lesser tires. I am realizing this now after my last TD where the coach told me I should NOT be leaving darkies on a 600 out of EVERY turn on the track. :laugh
:bow



Good comments. I think the best way to start is find a race-prepped bike someone else has slaved over, add some good street tires and go play. Remember, a $3000 bike with $3000 with of aftermarket parts is still pretty much a $3000 bike.

-D
:werd Definitely a better way to do it. I can't wait to get some extra cash together for a separate track bike.

It pains me every time I crack up my R6 on the track.
 
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