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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, for some time now I have heard a noise coming from the lower part of the camshaft, this noise appears when the engine is hot, when it is cold the noise does not appear, I have created a video I hope it is appreciated well:


You can see it when it stopped accelerating, the noise seems to come from the lower gear and is like the friction of the chain.

I have the stock tensioner, and the motorcycle is already many years old, and I have heard that these motorcycles have many problems with the tensioner, what do you think? I think that when reaching a high temperature the tensioner stops working correctly or that the chain has some quality. My motorcycle has 22.600 miles.

Is there a way to check the condition of the camshaft tensioner? Here the status of the chain:


Thanks guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Hi guys, I have purchased a stethoscope to identify noise more accurately, it is as follows:

Silverline 154006 320mm Mechanics Stethoscope | eBay

As I thought the sound is heard very intensely on the cover 5SL-15416-00-00, of the rotor 5SL-81673-00-00. I don't know how normal the sound can be, but it wasn't there before, I'm going to do a valve clerance. I will take some photos of the tensioner, and I will try to find information on how to inspect the state of the tensioner.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have disassembled the camshaft, I have checked the tensioner and it seems to be fine, the chain does not see any sign of damage.

I have found a video, where you can see a sound identical to mine, only it is not so intense, what do you think?

 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi guys, I have not left the thread abandoned, simply that I order some things that I need, and it is just having the time to do them. I will tell you all.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi guys,

I already have all the necessary tools, the first week or the second of August I have holidays, you will receive news.

I've also thought about checking the clutch. But I have the following question to see if anyone knows, about the micrometer and the thickness gauges.

375255


375256


As you can see the micrometer mark 0.41mm and the gauge is 0.40mm, it gives me an error in all of about 0.01 to 0.02mm, they are Chinese, the reason is that in the industrial hardware store they did not have the necessary thicknesses, it is normal that they have that mistake?

On the other hand, are my measurements with the measurements that the gauge gives me. Any way...

Regards.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
APE tensioner installed and two intake valves corrected. Tomorow I will try to install the radiator throttle body and what little is left to start the bike.

Regards.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi guys.

I'm done, the noise I had running at 3-4k rpm has disappeared.

But the noise while standing still, you can still see something, has attenuated a bit.

I have done the following, Install the APE tensioner, adjust the valves had the intake valves of a cylinder out of tolerance, and change the oil for the motul 7100 10w40.

Here the video of the before and after, the engine has improved a lot as far as noise is concerned.


Any suggestion, how I could completely eliminate the sound, or the appearance is normal from what I have seen, but I want to make sure.

Regards.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes, I see that many noises are normal, although after calibrating those two valves and putting the Ape tensioner on, it improved somewhat. But there is still something, of normal noises, and of some valve that is somewhat loose, but that cannot be adjusted, I do not understand why they do not make the shims with more ranges. Example 0.000 - 0.003 - 0.005 not 0.000 - 0.005.

Regards.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Bad news

The noise that appears over 3k-4k rpm has appeared, apparently this has always been there, but I have not been able to interpret it.

Noise is coming from the valve train, but I have already adjusted the valves and none are out of range. This only happens when the bike has reached high temperatures, such as riding around the city center for a long time.

I am going to cancel the PAIR valve, and the reed valves could be causing that noise, since when inspecting the tubes of the plates where the PAIR valve injects the air, there is one of them with dirt.

I hope that is the definitive problem, if I do not come to the conclusion that it is the famous yamaha ticking.

Regards.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yesterday I drove through the city center at night, the engine reached temperature but curiously the noise did not appear.

Possibly it only appears has high temperatures during the day in my city we are at 100ºF.

I do not want to look like a maniac, but that noise is quite shocking to me, since in cold it does not do it, if it were a valve I would have to make more noise in cold since the metal is more contracted and there is more clearance, but in cold it does not feels nothing. They are also all within tolerance.

That is why I have thought about the reed valves, there is a minimum separation of 0.5mm if I am not mistaken, is it possible that with excessive heat the reed valves will expand and these produce the noise?

They are only speculations, the plates will arrive to me next week.

Regards.
 

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YZFR6... ooodles of HP
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The reeds make a tickling sound. Cam chain and valve lash another. Even the clutch basket has some noise. If the AIS plates are thin, and you remove the reed valves... Then the exhaust pulses will resonate the cover and make the engine sound like a diesel. It happened to me. I tore my entire zx9r engine apart and found only worn valve springs and signs of bent exhaust valves. Well $2k+ in parts for a fantom that I created.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
When the plates arrive, I'll post a photo.

If I think I remember in the other thread, that you referred to the diesel engine noise that your zx9r produced.

But about the bent valves and the springs ...

You scared me, canceling the reed valves and AIS is not theoretically a risk-free operation?

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When the plates arrive, I'll post a photo.

If I think I remember in the other thread, that you referred to the diesel engine noise that your zx9r produced.

But about the bent valves and the springs ...

You scared me, canceling the reed valves and AIS is not theoretically a risk-free operation?

Thanks.
The ais system doesn't have any mechanical connection to any moving parts of the engine. It's just an emissions device. It could be leaking exhaust gasses and making a sound. You could also have a header gasket leak. Sitting on top of an engine you'll tend to hear strange sounds.
 

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YZFR6... ooodles of HP
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No, the source of noise had to do with no reed valves and thin covers becoming a drum as the exhaust pulses hit it...
 

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.......... noise appears when the engine is hot, when it is cold the noise does not appear, ......... ............. ........... .......................... ............ ................. ..
Sounds normal. Try heavier weight oil with a slight overfill... Castrol Power RS Full Synthetic Motorcycle Motor Oil 10W-50.

The lower the first number, the "thinner" it is when cold. The higher the second number, the "thicker" it is when hot.
More noise when cold, decrease the first number. More noise when hot, increase the second number.
But for the most part, the conditional ticking is somewhat normal for these engines... more especially on thinned oil.

My '08 almost never does that... almost. It may only be during a certain point early during warm up when it did. But when it does, I don't really worry about it. The higher pitched sounds don't translate well through earplugs anyway. I'm over 60k.

You never read about the valve train blowing up on here and you already verified that your cam chain tensioner and timing chain were good. Just ride it with heavier oil and be happy. If you're racing it, continue to use the thinner stuff though. The heavier stuff robs power.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well in any case, I'll test the plates. I already told you how.

Too bad, I still have 1 full jug of motul 10w40.

Likewise the next oil change, I will put the one that you have recommended Intuit.

Thanks guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I already have them, they seem of good quality, there is also a plastic cap, I suppose it will be to block the out of the air box to the AIS valve.

375598


When I have them installed, I will explain that, it is better to upload a video, but according to comments it is all normal, but since I have them I will try them, at least I will remove them.

I will remove the reed valves, only a screw will fit them, and I will mount the plates on that same base, since that is where the gasket is.

The oil thing, in the next change, since it would be a shame to change it now.

Regards.
 

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YZFR6... ooodles of HP
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Yep cap goes on air box. How thick are they?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
It lacked thickness, and I had to put tape around the plastic plug, so that the clamp would press.

375600


But it has been a waste of time, I have not made any video since the sound is the same, it has also been worse since my idle was unstable, already with everything you have told me and taught in the video of the R1 it is silly to continue , It is a normal sound of valves, at most are what Intuit said in the future I will put a 10w50 on it.

Tomorrow I will return to install the AIS system. I think the problem can be considered solved.

Thanks.
 
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