Yamaha R6 Forum: YZF-R6 Forums banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
YZFR6... ooodles of HP
Joined
·
1,058 Posts
The nut or the threaded stud?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
I just had to deal with this a couple months ago -_- You'll have to apply some force "out" on the nuts - slip a crowbar or something underneath the nut - while you spin the nut out. Be careful around the sprocket, it's sharp and I messed up my hands a bit during this lol, just wrap a towel around it or something. The studs will be stripped, so you'll have to buy a new hub, but they're pretty cheap on ebay. In the future, make sure you torque those nuts to spec on install, and use an impact if you need to take them off again. Using a wrench/breaker seems to strip them easily.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Conventional wisdom is those hub studs have the wrong torque spec in the service manual. So, if you follow the spec they end up massively overtightened and will likely strip the hub when you try to remove them. The torque spec is 72ft.lb. However, on page 2-18, under general tightening torques, their own table suggests 22ft.lb. for standard 10mmx1.5mm bolts, for . Most other tables list 10mmx1.25 (fine thread) fasteners maxing out at 61ft.lb. I use 61ft.lb and haven't had trouble. Take your pick.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Conventional wisdom is those hub studs have the wrong torque spec in the service manual. So, if you follow the spec they end up massively overtightened and will likely strip the hub when you try to remove them. The torque spec is 72ft.lb. However, on page 2-18, under general tightening torques, their own table suggests 22ft.lb. for standard 10mmx1.5mm bolts, for . Most other tables list 10mmx1.25 (fine thread) fasteners maxing out at 61ft.lb. I use 61ft.lb and haven't had trouble. Take your pick.
The service manual is WRONG? say it ain't so

But that does make a lot of sense actually, I always felt like I shouldn't be torqueing those small bolts so much. I'm going to torque those a little less in the future...
 

·
YZFR6... ooodles of HP
Joined
·
1,058 Posts
I went about 50 ft lbs when I changed my oem sprocket at 25k.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
137 Posts
I just checked myself now.

The torque is excessive when loosening them to break the threads.

But how is it possible that they are factory 100 Newton meter. And the front pinion is at 90NM, they are practically like the axle at 110NM.

I can not understand it. It will have to change everything, incredible.




Regards.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
137 Posts
Conventional wisdom is those hub studs have the wrong torque spec in the service manual. So, if you follow the spec they end up massively overtightened and will likely strip the hub when you try to remove them. The torque spec is 72ft.lb. However, on page 2-18, under general tightening torques, their own table suggests 22ft.lb. for standard 10mmx1.5mm bolts, for . Most other tables list 10mmx1.25 (fine thread) fasteners maxing out at 61ft.lb. I use 61ft.lb and haven't had trouble. Take your pick.
True how they contradict in that way? 100 NM, over passes practically double the torque.

Screenshot_20201122-152104.png
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,208 Posts
The service manual is WRONG? say it ain't so
But that does make a lot of sense actually, I always felt like I shouldn't be torqueing those small bolts so much. I'm going to torque those a little less in the future...
funny... yamaha has the rear axle spec at 80+ ft lbs on the newer R6. Years ago we were talking about who came up with that #... it was definitely a "risk attorney"... not an engineer.
Some folks here shit a pickle when you dont follow the service manual spec to the T. Im guessing those folks havent had to extract a hardened fastener or chase galled threads.
Then they start with "Well the guys wearing the lab coats know better than you" :rolleyes:
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top