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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been reading all the hype about changing your oil over to fully synthetic and such i was wondering if anyone knows when you should and how you should go about it? thanx
 

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I bought my bike with 4400 miles and im gonna start as soon as I take her out for the spring. I woulda started sooner if it was my bike sooner! 2nd oil change probably
 

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what i do is run Petro for the first several oil changes cause it's cheaper.

I change my oil ALOT between 0-1000 miles.......like 3 maybe 4 times.

Then i'll switch to SYN.
 

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well i did my own first oill chnage at about 800 miles, i used motul 3100... the guys at the service department, at 2 different dealers told me that if i used full syn, that my clutch would slip.... but as far as syn goes, he said u can switch to semi syn after about the 3rd or 4th oil change.... and im not having any problems with the factory oil filter.... some people say it falls off... mine is fine...

good luck
 

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SpeedSen said:
well i did my own first oill chnage at about 800 miles, i used motul 3100... the guys at the service department, at 2 different dealers told me that if i used full syn, that my clutch would slip.... but as far as syn goes, he said u can switch to semi syn after about the 3rd or 4th oil change.... and im not having any problems with the factory oil filter.... some people say it falls off... mine is fine...

good luck
I run Mobil 1 syn motorcycle blend and the clutch does not slip. I switched to syn at about 2500 miles and have changed it 4000 and 6000.

I also use K&N oil filters, mainly 'cause there is a bolt head on the end that is 17mm just like the drain plug so you don't have to **** with a oil filter wrench.
 

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i'm a perfectionest ,......

so i did alot of reserch about switching to syn. and when to switch to syn.

- the parts in ur motor will not be fully brokin in untill 10,000 k /6,250 miles , somthing to do with the "plating" on the parts ....

- going too early too syn oil will not allow these parts to wear properly because of the super slick properties ,..

- this could mean 1-2 hp difference ,..

- there is no harm in waiting ...

i use motul 5100 semi syn. ,.... i talked to a racer and he said that he used full syn on the street and hes bike ran a bit hotter , switched back to semi syn , and everything went back to normal,.. u will be best off with semi syn. u'll never need the properties off full ,.. remeber there have been bikes running on regular oil for years !!!
 

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All the synthetics will do for ya is prolong the break down of the oil..., ya can, even with a bike, wait a bit longer for an oil change without harm. I haven't heard with a bike company yet, but with cars, for example, BMW says you can go 12-15K miles without a change with syn. M'bishi says I can go 10-12.5K in my Eclipse. I went 5K on my R6, and even ran a homemade draw down test on the old stuff (for anyone familiar with ASTM testing)..., didn't notice a whole lot of particulates, no more than normal.

Side note: If you go syn, which I have, do not use those formulated for cars. Your bike, in a lot of cases, will rev 2-3 times higher, shearing of the oil is much more a factor. I had a conversation with an engineer at Mobil-Exxon about this.

I used to use Mobil 1 in my F4i..., I'm just as happy with AMSoil in the R6, FYI
 

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r6dirtydave said:
All the synthetics will do for ya is prolong the break down of the oil..., ya can, even with a bike, wait a bit longer for an oil change without harm. I haven't heard with a bike company yet, but with cars, for example, BMW says you can go 12-15K miles without a change with syn. M'bishi says I can go 10-12.5K in my Eclipse. I went 5K on my R6, and even ran a homemade draw down test on the old stuff (for anyone familiar with ASTM testing)..., didn't notice a whole lot of particulates, no more than normal.

Side note: If you go syn, which I have, do not use those formulated for cars. Your bike, in a lot of cases, will rev 2-3 times higher, shearing of the oil is much more a factor. I had a conversation with an engineer at Mobil-Exxon about this.

I used to use Mobil 1 in my F4i..., I'm just as happy with AMSoil in the R6, FYI
I know lots of guys who run mobil 1 15w 50 for there bikes and havent had a single problem with clutch or bike revving.

I agree with the oil change thing though, my sister bmw needs an oil change once a year. Although I'll probably do the same for my bike, lol...
 

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I don't plan on keeping my bike forever. I'm guessing at 5 or 6k I will get rid of it and get a R1. So I doubt I will switch to synthetic, well I might but i'm not going to lose sleep over it.
 

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ptirmal said:
I know lots of guys who run mobil 1 15w 50 for there bikes and havent had a single problem with clutch or bike revving.

I agree with the oil change thing though, my sister bmw needs an oil change once a year. Although I'll probably do the same for my bike, lol...
Let me clarrify..., yes, car oils will work, they will just break down waaay faster, and then you're wasting money paying for the pricey stuff when petro will work the same.

Most, if not all, sportbikes use the same oil to lube the engine and the tranny..., not the case in cars. Cycle oils are formulated to compensate for the additional shearing and heat generated by the gears grinding around. They don't only have a greater percentage of long C-chain chemicals (which is prolly why your buds opted for 15W), but also a number of additives for additional bond strength. Just FYI..., not trying to argue "right or wrong", just soem info to ponder..., and I'm now feeling like a big chimical dork so I'll shut it...., lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanx for all the info...My 2002 R6 has about 11k miles on it so i'm thinkin about switching to semi synthetic but if i do how often should i change my oil and stuff like that?
 

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IMO 1500 is the max i will go with one oil change, depending on how you ride, the rougher you are on your bike the sooner i would change it... but usually around 1500.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
not 11k miles since i've changed my oil last that is how many i have on it i change my oil about every 2000 miles but i was wondering if i put synthetic in it how often should i change my oil and stuff?
 

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jbullfrogr6 said:
not 11k miles since i've changed my oil last that is how many i have on it i change my oil about every 2000 miles but i was wondering if i put synthetic in it how often should i change my oil and stuff?
2000 is just fine. Hell if you go by what Yamaha says you would change every 4000 miles with regular oil.

If you go semi-syn I would run Motul 5100. It helped smooth the gearbox when I ran it. And my bike does seem to run a touch warmer with the Mobil 1. I might go back to Motul myself.
 

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i just switched to mobil 1 and my bike does run hotter. it warms up faster in the morning and when im at a light the temp climbs up faster. the pro is my gears shift so much smoother.
 

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R6IAN said:
i just switched to mobil 1 and my bike does run hotter. it warms up faster in the morning and when im at a light the temp climbs up faster. the pro is my gears shift so much smoother.
I know at idle today, although it was running for awhile talking to some other guys after class, my bike got all the way to 212 just idling and it was barely 55* today.
 

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You can use ANY oil you want to and be fine.........so long as it isn't EC2 or higher rated.

EC.....Energy Conserving. Look on the back of the bottles of oil, you'll see a Cirlcle with EC ratings if they are EC rated.

Higher EC rated oils have additives which are good for metal parts.....but will tear the hell out of your motorcycle WET clutch! WHy....EC additives are for anti-friction.......how do wet clutches work??... FRICTION

Also, everone has to consider the whole break-in procedure with mileage recommendations etc... Todays engines are machined FAR superior to what they were 5, 10, 20 years ago!! Tolerances from the factory are way better....... It takes much less time for metal parts to MATE together nowadays than they did "in the good 'ole days"

Thats why i change oil frequently upon break-in...to get whatever small amount of metal particles out.

Honestly, you can run fully syn oil right away, but to keep your engine clean, it's cheaper to run petro during this "flushing stage".

By the way, i couldnt be happier than running my $18/ gal Mobil 1 Red cap 15w 50.

Now oil weights and air temps when and why to run different weights is a whole other story.

"Car" oils tearing up motorcycle clutches.........NAH, just Energy conserving oils.
 

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RedlineR6 said:
By the way, i couldnt be happier than running my $18/ gal Mobil 1 Red cap 15w 50.
ya man, that stuff has been good to me too.
 

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I did my 1st oil change this summer on my 1st bike, and automatically went to a full synthetic Mobil 1 MX4T 10W 30, specifically for motorcycles and K&N filter. Used it this change, and will use it religiously every 3,500-4,000 miles for the rest of my owning a bike years (when I die) for me, the $52 an oil change is cheap insurance.

And a full synthetic oil doesn't just last longer, but protects better. It's thinner and "slicker". for personal first hand example, it would leak out of my oil pan gasket on my car, not regular oil, I cannot run regular oil in my Prelude, it will just leak out
:cuss

Synthetic is just where it's at....FOR ME, but have not had the experiences persay as other users on here, but it seems I'm the only one using Mobil 1 MX4T
 
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