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Living the dream...
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Discussion Starter #1
Here's the deal. My bike throws the code 46. My battery was dead. I load the bike up and get it home and charge the battery and then check it with a multimeter. I check my battery and get these readings...

Bike off: 12.8
key on engine off: 12.4
bike running at idle: 14.0
bike at 5k: 14.1

Everyone tells me to buy a new battery. My battery is less then 3 years old but I replaced it anyway. So, I take the bike out and ride it a bit then the engine light come on again. It throws code 46 again. I try to restart the bike and the battery is dead. I leave it off while I'm on my phone and then I turned the key back on and and try to start it and the battery turns over just enough to start the bike. I manage to ride all the way home with the engine light on. I get home and get the bike in the garage and take the seat off. I grab my meter and take these readings.

bike off: 11.4

I charge the battery for about 4 hours. I then take these readings

bike off: 12.8
bike running at idle: 11.4
bike at 5k: 11.4

My question is... I think this has been an ongoing issue whatever it may be. Why when I tested my new battery and get normal readings....then take the bike out for a ride only to have the same code 46 thrown with the "failure" readings. Why were the readings on the new battery after the engine code was thrown showing it to be a failed stator when it checked out fine earlier before I took it for a ride?

It is possible for me to have a faulty ground or something causing the stator to work sometimes, and sometime not work. If that stator goes out it would fail completely unless a ground or something were causing it to go in and out. Is there a ground for it possibly that I could check to see if it loose or something?

Sorry for such a long post but all help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advanced.
 

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Have you inspected the rectifier plug? Tested the resistance on the stator?

Maybe the rectifier is shot and gets too hot and the resistance gets too much and it doesn't allow the power to run to the battery?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Have you inspected the rectifier plug? Tested the resistance on the stator?

Maybe the rectifier is shot and gets too hot and the resistance gets too much and it doesn't allow the power to run to the battery?
I have in fact checked the rectifier plug and it looks good. It's nice and clean. No burns or anything on it. At least not on the plug that goes into the bottom of the rectifier. Which plug do I need to use to test the resistance of the stator? Everyone mentions a white plug with three prongs. Is this plug under the tank or is near the rectifier? Does the bike have to be running to test the resistance? Thanks in advanced good sir. :)
 

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There is a wire coming out of the stator cover. Follow that to the plug and disconnect it and do the tests with a multimeter per the service manual's instructions.

It's a start.

Find a pal with a similar bike and swap rectifiers.

The low voltage when running signifies power isn't making it to the battery. The power is generated at the stator, then goes into the rectifier to be converted from AC to DC and a reasonable voltage for the battery and bike to cope with.

So, if the wiring is good, and the stator tests OK, then the rectifier might be cooked. Pull the rectifier off the bike and inspect it bro. Maybe if you look at the underside, the silicone sealant could be melted.

Resistance on the rectifier is crazy high and those specs aren't in the manual. I'm sure someone else could check it for you to compare. Mine was like something stupid.. 284 ohms or something random like that.

Maybe run the bike for a few and see if it's cold and you get that 14 volts running.. Then when the rectifier is hot, check the voltage again and see if it's changed drastically again.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
There is a wire coming out of the stator cover. Follow that to the plug and disconnect it and do the tests with a multimeter per the service manual's instructions.

It's a start.

Find a pal with a similar bike and swap rectifiers.

The low voltage when running signifies power isn't making it to the battery. The power is generated at the stator, then goes into the rectifier to be converted from AC to DC and a reasonable voltage for the battery and bike to cope with.

So, if the wiring is good, and the stator tests OK, then the rectifier might be cooked. Pull the rectifier off the bike and inspect it bro. Maybe if you look at the underside, the silicone sealant could be melted.

Resistance on the rectifier is crazy high and those specs aren't in the manual. I'm sure someone else could check it for you to compare. Mine was like something stupid.. 284 ohms or something random like that.

Maybe run the bike for a few and see if it's cold and you get that 14 volts running.. Then when the rectifier is hot, check the voltage again and see if it's changed drastically again.
Ok, I'm gonna test the stator and see what it says as well as try what else you said. That plug is hidden in a black sleeve pretty good. Didn't even notice it on the first look. I'll keep you posted.
 

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Living the dream...
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Discussion Starter #6
There is a wire coming out of the stator cover. Follow that to the plug and disconnect it and do the tests with a multimeter per the service manual's instructions.

It's a start.

Find a pal with a similar bike and swap rectifiers.

The low voltage when running signifies power isn't making it to the battery. The power is generated at the stator, then goes into the rectifier to be converted from AC to DC and a reasonable voltage for the battery and bike to cope with.

So, if the wiring is good, and the stator tests OK, then the rectifier might be cooked. Pull the rectifier off the bike and inspect it bro. Maybe if you look at the underside, the silicone sealant could be melted.

Resistance on the rectifier is crazy high and those specs aren't in the manual. I'm sure someone else could check it for you to compare. Mine was like something stupid.. 284 ohms or something random like that.

Maybe run the bike for a few and see if it's cold and you get that 14 volts running.. Then when the rectifier is hot, check the voltage again and see if it's changed drastically again.
So I did what I think was a resistance test and all three combos produced a reading of .9 I'm not so sure I'm doing this test correctly. I used a digital multi-meter with it set to ohm 20 which is my lowest setting. The service book says i need to test it at ohm 1 Do I need a different multi-meter?
 

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So I did what I think was a resistance test and all three combos produced a reading of .9 I'm not so sure I'm doing this test correctly. I used a digital multi-meter with it set to ohm 20 which is my lowest setting. The service book says i need to test it at ohm 1 Do I need a different multi-meter?
sorry, I'm not sure how to answer this. I had to get a manual for my multimeter online. I'm not spectacular with them. I'm a test light kinda guy. :lmao

SEriously tho, make sure you touch the two wires for the multimeter together to get the resistance of the multimeter itself. Then subtract that from your readings.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, after a few tests I'v come to the conclusion that my stator has went bad. I've got a new one ordered and I will be installing it as soon as it gets here. I'm ready to ride! Thanks for all the help.
 

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I have in fact checked the rectifier plug and it looks good. It's nice and clean. No burns or anything on it. At least not on the plug that goes into the bottom of the rectifier. Which plug do I need to use to test the resistance of the stator? Everyone mentions a white plug with three prongs. Is this plug under the tank or is near the rectifier? Does the bike have to be running to test the resistance? Thanks in advanced good sir. :)
Please take a picture of the front of that I got a 2009 and it was taken off before i got it and figure out how it goes on
 
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