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Zip ties and Duct tape
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Discussion Starter #1
So my bike is throwing code 20, it runs perfectly fine even with the code displayed. I have looked in the owners manual and it says, the atmospheric pressure sensor voltage, and intake air pressure sensor voltage differ greatly. I took it to a shop and they replaced the the intake pressure sensor. After about 100 miles, the code is now back, the shop told me if it comes back i more than likely need a new wiring harness, which they quoted me at 650$!!!! Here's where things get weird, if i start the bike cold from sitting over night, the code is displayed. If i let it warm up until it gets past 100 degrees, turn it off, then turn it back on, there's no more code. I'm really at a loss for what to do, could it really be the wiring harness?
 

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Could be the shop's way of saying, "if it comes back, don't come back because we don't know what it is". Could be labor to replace the harness. Could be that the harness is commonly damaged and/or hard to acquire.

An issue like that I'd think is more typical of an ECU with broken solder joint(s) versus wire harness or sensor.

Any changes to the intake? Has the intake been disassembled to check for restrictions or other?

The ECU likely checks them against one another in which case, you test both of them. The 2nd Gen diag mode includes a readout for the sensors. The manual may include voltage ranges or resistance readings for testing the sensors.

Everything prior to the sensors' connection to the jack can be tested via voltage drop testing.
https://www.r6-forum.com/forums/57-garage-mechanical-help/443898-error-code-46-a.html#post5744322
A straight pin or safety pin through a select wire will make it easy to get a reading.
 

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Zip ties and Duct tape
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183 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Could be the shop's way of saying, "if it comes back, don't come back because we don't know what it is". Could be labor to replace the harness. Could be that the harness is commonly damaged and/or hard to acquire.

An issue like that I'd think is more typical of an ECU with broken solder joint(s) versus wire harness or sensor.

Any changes to the intake? Has the intake been disassembled to check for restrictions or other?

The ECU likely checks them against one another in which case, you test both of them. The 2nd Gen diag mode includes a readout for the sensors. The manual may include voltage ranges or resistance readings for testing the sensors.

Everything prior to the sensors' connection to the jack can be tested via voltage drop testing.
https://www.r6-forum.com/forums/57-garage-mechanical-help/443898-error-code-46-a.html#post5744322
A straight pin or safety pin through a select wire will make it easy to get a reading.
The shop actually said they swapped in a new ECU with the one in my bike to rule out if it might be the computer, it wasn't. No work has been done to the intake and the bike is basically stock except for appearance mods. I do have HID's which i have heard can cause some problems for some people.
 

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Zip ties and Duct tape
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183 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I also should add that the code only comes on when the bike is cold from sitting overnight. As soon as the bike warms up past 100 degrees, I can turn it off, turn it back on, and the code will be gone. It wont come on while riding, and i can park it for about 2 hours, come back and there be no code. But as soon as the bike gets below 110 degrees give or take from sitting, the code will come back on before starting. I should also mention that the bike has only 13k on the ODO.
 

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Zip ties and Duct tape
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Discussion Starter #7
if you have the service manual look at page 8-54(377). gives you instructions how to test this problem.
This helped, where is the atmospheric air pressure sensor located? I thought I saw another thread that said it was somewhere near the tail?
 

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Zip ties and Duct tape
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Discussion Starter #9
Finally figure it out, it was a clogged vacuum line. Blew compressed air through it and man was it full of crud. Bike threw no more code after everything was put back together.
 

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Interesting. If the vacuum line is deteriorated, you'll want to replace it as it will occur again. I'd also like to know, just what the "crud" was? Oil?
 
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