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2009 Yamaha YZF R6S
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a 2009 Yamaha YZF R6S. i bought EBC Street Racer (SRC74) green box comes with friction plates and springs only.

i see alot of people talking about bigger and smaller sizes but all of my friction plates look exactly identical. every little bit is exactly the same. so i have no idea how to reorder my friction plates.

as for my OEM ones, theres 2 small ones and 6 big ones. but how tf do i compare those to some completely different ones that look exactly the same?

this is my first time doing my own clutch so any advice would help alot. i already drained the oil and soaked the plates. now i just need to know how to order them... or if it even matters if they all look the same. They’re all just as thick from the sides too. no big or thin plates.

contact my IG: f.r6.ddy_officialr
 

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UR B-hind Da 8 Ball
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You bought an aftermarket clutch so you need to follow the instructions that are supplied in the kit.
Your biggest issue will be getting the cover back on. There is a process that is more of a feel thing than can be described. You need to get a service manual. They are available on the Facebook page in the files tab. Yours will be the same as the 03-04 manual.

why did you decide to change the clutch anyway?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You bought an aftermarket clutch so you need to follow the instructions that are supplied in the kit.
Your biggest issue will be getting the cover back on. There is a process that is more of a feel thing than can be described. You need to get a service manual. They are available on the Facebook page in the files tab. Yours will be the same as the 03-04 manual.

why did you decide to change the clutch anyway?
because i thought that was the reason my bike had no power to rear. but im hearing that the friction plates have no order. but the steel plates have a sharp side and a smooth side and im not sure which one goes inwards? prolly not true but ig thats only if all the friction plates are the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
because i thought that was the reason my bike had no power to rear. but im hearing that the friction plates have no order. but the steel plates have a sharp side and a smooth side and im not sure which one goes inwards? prolly not true but ig thats only if all the friction plates are the same.
and also my clutch plates didnt come with instructions. i picked it up from chapparal and all is had was friction plates and springs. it wont let me send pictures
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You bought an aftermarket clutch so you need to follow the instructions that are supplied in the kit.
Your biggest issue will be getting the cover back on. There is a process that is more of a feel thing than can be described. You need to get a service manual. They are available on the Facebook page in the files tab. Yours will be the same as the 03-04 manual.

why did you decide to change the clutch anyway?
so friction plates dont matter in the order as long as friction plate goes in first, but for the steel plates, sharp side inwards or outwards? theres a sharp edge and a smooth edge on the other side. which side goes in first?
 

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UR B-hind Da 8 Ball
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Download the service manual from the R6-Forum Facebook group page. It’ll tell you what you need. As far as which way the steel plates face, it shouldn’t matter, but I’d face them all the same way.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Download the service manual from the R6-Forum Facebook group page. It’ll tell you what you need. As far as which way the steel plates face, it shouldn’t matter, but I’d face them all the same way.
i dont have facebook lmao
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Download the service manual from the R6-Forum Facebook group page. It’ll tell you what you need. As far as which way the steel plates face, it shouldn’t matter, but I’d face them all the same way.
i domt have a torque wrench to tighten the preassure plate. does it have to be exact? or can it just be hand tightened. if so, how many twists, or half twists, should i do by hand
 

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UR B-hind Da 8 Ball
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Dude, you might be in over your head!
You can download the manual here:

Once again, you need the 03-04 manual. You can borrow a torque wrench from just about any auto parts store. A manual and torque wrench are essential tools anytime you are going to be into a motorcycle deep enough to be in the oily bits.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Dude, you might be in over your head!
You can download the manual here:

Once again, you need the 03-04 manual. You can borrow a torque wrench from just about any auto parts store. A manual and torque wrench are essential tools anytime you are going to be into a motorcycle deep enough to be in the oily bits.
okay i did it. but now my lever is hella hard to pull in. is it because i tightened the 6 springs too tight? or is it something else?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
okay i did it. but now my lever is hella hard to pull in. is it because i tightened the 6 springs too tight? or is it something else?
also,
Dude, you might be in over your head!
You can download the manual here:

Once again, you need the 03-04 manual. You can borrow a torque wrench from just about any auto parts store. A manual and torque wrench are essential tools anytime you are going to be into a motorcycle deep enough to be in the oily bits.
also, when im tightening the springs, i stop as soon as the pressure plate starts to rotate aswell as im trying to tighten them. im not sure if thats a normal thing or a bad
 

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UR B-hind Da 8 Ball
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No dude. You need to have a method of holding the basket and TORQUING the springs with a torque wrench! This is usually not an issue with the bike in gear because the chain and sprocket, attached to the rear wheel will keep it from spinning. Put the sprocket and chain back on and put it in gear. GET A TORQUE WRENCH AND DO IT RIGHT!!!!!

As far as the lever effort you are feeling; I don’t know how hard “hella hard” is. It could be “stiffer springs” hard, or it could be “hard stop” because you did not put the cover back on correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
No dude. You need to have a method of holding the basket and TORQUING the springs with a torque wrench! This is usually not an issue with the bike in gear because the chain and sprocket, attached to the rear wheel will keep it from spinning. Put the sprocket and chain back on and put it in gear. GET A TORQUE WRENCH AND DO IT RIGHT!!!!!

As far as the lever effort you are feeling; I don’t know how hard “hella hard” is. It could be “stiffer springs” hard, or it could be “hard stop” because you did not put the cover back on correctly.
yeah i definitely did not hold the basket while tightening them. i mean the basket fits flush tho. its the spring bolts that i had to push in. but your right, ill put it in gear.

and not hella hard. i can pull it in, not all the way to the point where i can touch my fingers, but theres a slight resistance to it that im not used to, and i havent adjusted the cable. it was fine before i changed the clutch plates. so thats y i feel like it has to do with the plates not being on right. half way through pulling in the lever, ill feel this little lump and idk what that is. if its the actuator arm not being perfectly alligned or if its the plates being too tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
No dude. You need to have a method of holding the basket and TORQUING the springs with a torque wrench! This is usually not an issue with the bike in gear because the chain and sprocket, attached to the rear wheel will keep it from spinning. Put the sprocket and chain back on and put it in gear. GET A TORQUE WRENCH AND DO IT RIGHT!!!!!

As far as the lever effort you are feeling; I don’t know how hard “hella hard” is. It could be “stiffer springs” hard, or it could be “hard stop” because you did not put the cover back on correctly.
wait i misunderstood that first part my bad haha. u meant holding it by putting it in gear 😂 got itt now. but i dont have a torque wrench and i wont be able to get one. so any tips?
 

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UR B-hind Da 8 Ball
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Yeah find someone with a torque wrench, borrow one from an auto parts store or buy one! Why can’t you get one? That’s ridiculous! They’re $20 at Harbor Freight.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah find someone with a torque wrench, borrow one from an auto parts store or buy one! Why can’t you get one? That’s ridiculous! They’re $20 at Harbor Freight.
im broke. like ass flat broke. i mean thats kinda why im on here. i didnt have enough for a dealer or a mechanic... :/ i actually dont get paid until 4 more days but until then i work w what i got
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yeah find someone with a torque wrench, borrow one from an auto parts store or buy one! Why can’t you get one? That’s ridiculous! They’re $20 at Harbor Freight.
also, i did it all on neutral. but im just worried that maybe if i put it in gear it will **** it up??? i mean i already put them in so putting it in gear shouldnt be a problem right?
 

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UR B-hind Da 8 Ball
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I guarantee they are not tight enough if you stopped when the clutch started turning in nuetral. They will back out and do far more damage than a $20 torque wrench! You need to take the cover back off and torque them down. The specified torque is 5.8 lb-ft. That’s about 2 fingers tight on a 1/4 inch drive ratchet. And they should be tightened in stages in a crisscross pattern. I still say go to AutoZone and borrow 1/4 inch drive torque wrench. Yeah, you have to put money down on a card, but they give it back when you return the tool.

how much damage was done to the threads on the sprocket nut? All of this may be pointless if the sprocket threads are messed up and you can’t get the sprocket nut to tighten (oh, and that’ll need blue locktite)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I guarantee they are not tight enough if you stopped when the clutch started turning in nuetral. They will back out and do far more damage than a $20 torque wrench! You need to take the cover back off and torque them down. The specified torque is 5.8 lb-ft. That’s about 2 fingers tight on a 1/4 inch drive ratchet. And they should be tightened in stages in a crisscross pattern. I still say go to AutoZone and borrow 1/4 inch drive torque wrench. Yeah, you have to put money down on a card, but they give it back when you return the tool.

how much damage was done to the threads on the sprocket nut? All of this may be pointless if the sprocket threads are messed up and you can’t get the sprocket nut to tighten (oh, and that’ll need blue locktite)
well the threads are a little sanded down at the end tip but theres still thread left. wont let me send pictures for some reason
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I guarantee they are not tight enough if you stopped when the clutch started turning in nuetral. They will back out and do far more damage than a $20 torque wrench! You need to take the cover back off and torque them down. The specified torque is 5.8 lb-ft. That’s about 2 fingers tight on a 1/4 inch drive ratchet. And they should be tightened in stages in a crisscross pattern. I still say go to AutoZone and borrow 1/4 inch drive torque wrench. Yeah, you have to put money down on a card, but they give it back when you return the tool.

how much damage was done to the threads on the sprocket nut? All of this may be pointless if the sprocket threads are messed up and you can’t get the sprocket nut to tighten (oh, and that’ll need blue locktite)
u have instagram? ill dm you
 
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