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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2012 r6 keeps crawling with the clutch engaged. I replaced the clutch cable and it keeos doing it. If i apply less or more free play it crawls even more. Anybody know how to fix it? Or what brand clutch is best to purchase and replace
 

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YZFR6... ooodles of HP
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Did you examine the clutch basket and discs for wear?
 
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YZFR6... ooodles of HP
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Check the basket for wear from the clutch disc teeth.
 
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Just a couple of questions, 1) what oil are you using? 2) is this only from a cold start? Does it get better after some run time? 3) what is your idle set to?

If the oil isn't right, you can have problems. Normally that's in the form of someone using car oil in their bike and having the clutch slip, but I could see an oil that's too heavy and sticky grabbing the plates on a cold start.

Cold starts, if the bike is cold stiction can hold the plates together for a bit. After it warms up, you're golden, if that's the issue you can try changing your oil to something better suited to the application. You can never go wrong with yamalube. Motul is also popular and lots of folks run rotella t.

If the idle is too high, you can have issues.

If all of that is good to go, crack into the clutch cover and get a peak at the condition of the clutch plates and assembly (the boss, the basket etc). Look for anything out of the ordinary. Notching, broken or missing parts etc.

If all of that is good, you may have to sacrifice a chicken or something. I'm not sure. I could check with a guy and let you know though.

Good luck bud.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
1. I use mobil 1 motorcycle oil 2. The clutch gets worse when getting hot. Qlso if it is in first gear it is impossible to put it in neutral unless i rev it a a bit. From. cold start it will go in to neutral very easy. Havent checked the plates because tbh i dont reallt know about mechanics. Still in process of learning.
Just a couple of questions, 1) what oil are you using? 2) is this only from a cold start? Does it get better after some run time? 3) what is your idle set to?

If the oil isn't right, you can have problems. Normally that's in the form of someone using car oil in their bike and having the clutch slip, but I could see an oil that's too heavy and sticky grabbing the plates on a cold start.

Cold starts, if the bike is cold stiction can hold the plates together for a bit. After it warms up, you're golden, if that's the issue you can try changing your oil to something better suited to the application. You can never go wrong with yamalube. Motul is also popular and lots of folks run rotella t.

If the idle is too high, you can have issues.

If all of that is good to go, crack into the clutch cover and get a peak at the condition of the clutch plates and assembly (the boss, the basket etc). Look for anything out of the ordinary. Notching, broken or missing parts etc.

If all of that is good, you may have to sacrifice a chicken or something. I'm not sure. I could check with a guy and let you know though.

Good luck bud.
1. I use mobil 1 motorcycle oil 2. The clutch gets worse when getting hot. Qlso if it is in first gear it is impossible to put it in neutral unless i rev it a a bit. From. cold start it will go in to neutral very easy. Havent checked the plates because tbh i dont reallt know about mechanics. Still in process of learning.
 

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my 2017 does the same thing, took it to the dealer and he said the bikes previous owner installed a racing clutch. He measure clutch thickness and was thicker then oem.

It is possible that the cable adjuster gear slide is not properly adjusted, its behind the end of the clutch cable, behind the lever. You can look up in the manual how to properly adjust it
 

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my 2017 does the same thing, took it to the dealer and he said the bikes previous owner installed a racing clutch. He measure clutch thickness and was thicker then oem.

It is possible that the cable adjuster gear slide is not properly adjusted, its behind the end of the clutch cable, behind the lever. You can look up in the manual how to properly adjust it
I'm going to agree on the adjuster. Either that or the basket and boss are notched, the plates are warped or the stack is too thick.

1. I use mobil 1 motorcycle oil 2. The clutch gets worse when getting hot. Qlso if it is in first gear it is impossible to put it in neutral unless i rev it a a bit. From. cold start it will go in to neutral very easy. Havent checked the plates because tbh i dont reallt know about mechanics. Still in process of learning.

1. I use mobil 1 motorcycle oil 2. The clutch gets worse when getting hot. Qlso if it is in first gear it is impossible to put it in neutral unless i rev it a a bit. From. cold start it will go in to neutral very easy. Havent checked the plates because tbh i dont reallt know about mechanics. Still in process of learning.
Good deal boss man, you'll get there bud, just give it time. You probably want to get into the clutch at this point and take a peak. You're going to need a factory service manual (they are well written and easy to understand, so, trust me, you can do this) and some tools, but it ain't no step for a stepper.

I'd love to tell you exactly what is wrong with it, but, it's going to be hard for me to tell from my house, you know what I mean?

Good luck bro
 

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YZFR6... ooodles of HP
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When hot it's worse.. then freeplay sounds very suspicious. Freeplay drops by a quarter to a third when at operating temp. Worn basket is notchy at all temps. COLD engine squeeze clutch lever until resistance is felt. Try to put the center of the key head above the ring hole in between the lever and the clamp. No fit? Too tight.
 
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Do you have a adjustable reach clutch lever? If you do try setting it farther out so you get more travel in the clutch, same thing happened on my friends quad and he couldn’t figure it out and I adjusted the reach on the clutch lever and it was perfect after that.
 

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YZFR6... ooodles of HP
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Good call on the lever limit the release travel.
 
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