Yamaha R6 Forum: YZF-R6 Forums banner

1 - 3 of 3 Posts

·
My R6 scares me
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just removed my fuel pump form the '03 R6, because the tank was full of debris, and the pump & screen were clogged. Cleaned and flushed, etc.
The service manual says "Do NOT touch the fuel sender!", which of course, I did.
I had to clean the surface with solvent and toothbrush, as it was caked with old gasoline varnish. It's nice and clean now.
The good news, the pump works great! The bad news, the fuel sender flashes (8) times, indicating "Bad Sender". The manual says to replace the entire fuel pump. That's $500.00 !!!!
The connections under the tank are good, so maybe one of the connections inside the tank, on the pump, are loose.
Any suggestions, before I remove the fuel pump again? Do I really have to replace the ENTIRE pump, just for the sender? Can it be fixed or adjusted?
Has anyone else had this problem?
 

·
Hey...watch this
Joined
·
574 Posts
I have the same problem. It started after a get off on my track bike. I just fill it up after every couple of sessions. But I'd like to fix it.
 

·
My R6 scares me
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have the same problem. It started after a get off on my track bike. I just fill it up after every couple of sessions. But I'd like to fix it.
Everything I've been reading on this forum (and others), indicates there is a bad wiring connection, resulting in loss of continuity, or bad sensor.
It could be the plug at the tank (green one), or, more likely, the wiring (or solder connection) inside the tank on the fuel pump itself. Removal of the fuel pump is required if it's in the tank.
Also, the fuel sender is a "capacitance" type sender. It doesn't have a variable output (like a fuel gauge). It's only "on" or "off", with specific resistance when it's sensing low-fuel. It can be damaged or destroyed by a hard impact, since it's basically a weak capacitor.
Testing the fuel sender from the connector at the bottom of the tank is supposed to give very low resistance if the wiring and sensor is good (meaning the wiring/connections/CPU/gauge outside the tank is the problem).
If there is zero continuity (open circuit) at the connector, the problem is inside the tank (wires, connector in the pump, sensor itself).
You can put a jumper on the green connector, and "dummy" out the circuit, and it should make the CPU & flashing led happy, but doesn't fix the problem, and the "low fuel" won't come on.
BTW: the YZF R6 & YZF R1 evidently use the exact same sensor, because they both have the same "flash 8" code with a bad sensor, at least for model year(s) '03-'05.
 
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
Top