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RedDeviL
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79 Posts
Thanks for the write up. Now that we all know a bit more about sprockets and chains, does anyone have any preferences as far as brands? I ride a R6 2007 and I need to replace the chain + front and rear sprockets.

Thanks again!
 

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RedDeviL
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79 Posts
Thanks for the write up, really informative. Now that we all know a bit more about sprockets and chains, does anyone have any preferences as far as brands go? I ride a R6 2007, I need to replace my chain and both sprockets (front and rear).

Thanks again,
 

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Cool Kids Commute on R6 s
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107 Posts
Just want to point out that the stock pitch for an 03 R6 is 532. Not 530. Be aware if you decide you want to just replace one gear that you can't do that too easily.
 

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Registered
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18 Posts
Great write up. It helped me understand the delema I'm having right now. Thanks again. Even after almost two years since it was written, it is still helping out.
 

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Rear Hugger
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7 Posts
first, squat is the compression of the rear suspension and transfer of weight to the rear tire under acceleration. just like the compression of the front suspension and weight transfer to the front tire under braking. Due to the geometry of the swingarm, sprockets and chain, the force in the chain can be used to counteract that weight transfer. this force is known as anti-squat.

great write up luke. :fact
I don't know squat, but for a little more info to supplement the above definition:



http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0404_motorcycle_traction_geometry/index.html

I'm off to put a 520 on my schwinn! :hehe
 

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A work in progress...
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13,659 Posts
Just came accross this and gotta say Thanks! cleared alot up for me since I'm new to the bikes.
Thanks for searching first :cheers Great write up.
 

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Registered
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32 Posts
Great article but I still have some questions.
What are the recommended chain lengths for setups -1/+2, -1/+1 and only -1 front on 2007 R6?
I'm currently ridding on -1/+2 520, having chain with 116 links on rear tire 180/55. Some time ago I've ridden chain with 114 links and I had some issues. With the 180/55 I can put on the tire warmer and it slightly touches the swingarm - not a big deal at all. When I rode on a 190/55 tire the distance between the wheel and the swingarm was less but it fitted (although I haven't test it with tire warmes). Once I bought a 180/60 tire and it didn't fit in the swingarm - I couldn't get the rear axle back because of the short chain.
So I'm planning to ride with 3 different gearing setups as I mentioned above. I'm usually riding on 180/55, always with warmers but I'd like to have the opportunity to test 190/55 and 180/60.
Should I left the 116 links chain for every setup? Wouldn't it be too long for -1/+1 and for -1 front, would it? Maybe I should decide to ride on 180/55, get the 114 chain and be sure that it'll work fine with other gearings?
Have you tested these options?
 

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crashing aint so bad
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2,271 Posts
Discussion Starter #33
You can add or remove links as needed for different gearing. The stock number of 116 links will work for the standard -1 +1 and + 2. But can be tight with the +2 on some bikes. It depends on the swing arm depth. The 06 and up don't seem to mind. The 05 and older have less depth adjustment.

I was running a 205 rear for a bit and I had to run a longer 117 link chain to make it work. The 05 swing arm was not deep enough to pull the adjuster all the way back and clear the swing arm with the tire. I was also running -2 +2. So going with a -1 on the front really meant a longer chain. Either that or I had to run a smaller rear sprocket. It never hurst to get a chain with the extra links. Always better to get rid of unneeded links that to have to add new ones. The link is technically master link is the weakest link.
 

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Registered
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65 Posts
used the search to find this thread and it is very helpful...learned a lot of new things like different o rings and pros and cons between each...however, I'm sorry to be that noon, but I've read, re-read, and re-read this article again, and I'm still have a little trouble understanding chain pitches in relation to sprockets.

my question is, I understand that a 530 chain is wider, heavier, and thicker then let's say a 520 chain...however, it was to my original understanding that you couldn't use a 520 chain without going -1/+2 with your sprockets...but then I thought that I had read in his article that if you don't wanna lose your top end but want to change your chain, you can run a 520 chain with stock gearing, which is a superior choice being that the chain will be lighter....
but then I read in a reply with the chart of sprocket widths and different pitches, and now I wonder if by using a different width chain, doesn't that mean that you'd need to use certain sprockets to fit the width better?

regardless, everything else made perfect sense to me and wanted to say thanks for taking the time for the write up, definitely helped me know what to look for.

- ian
 

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Yamaha R6
Joined
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729 Posts
used the search to find this thread and it is very helpful...learned a lot of new things like different o rings and pros and cons between each...however, I'm sorry to be that noon, but I've read, re-read, and re-read this article again, and I'm still have a little trouble understanding chain pitches in relation to sprockets.

my question is, I understand that a 530 chain is wider, heavier, and thicker then let's say a 520 chain...however, it was to my original understanding that you couldn't use a 520 chain without going -1/+2 with your sprockets...but then I thought that I had read in his article that if you don't wanna lose your top end but want to change your chain, you can run a 520 chain with stock gearing, which is a superior choice being that the chain will be lighter....
but then I read in a reply with the chart of sprocket widths and different pitches, and now I wonder if by using a different width chain, doesn't that mean that you'd need to use certain sprockets to fit the width better?

regardless, everything else made perfect sense to me and wanted to say thanks for taking the time for the write up, definitely helped me know what to look for.

- ian
You don't have to change gearing to run s 520 set up. The chain and sprockets just have to match. As in 520 chain with 520 sprockets. -1+2 just would make you accelerate quicker while sacrificing top speed


Sent from my iPhone using Motorcycle.com App
 

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iRun
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33,318 Posts
^^^ What he said. The 520 WEIGHT chain and sprocket is independent of the gearing ratio. You can run any gear ratio with 520, 530 or 535 weight components, provided they are all the SAME weight (for example, don't try to run 520 weight sprockets with a 530 weight chain). A buyer does not specify the PITCH of a chain-- people on this site need to stop throwing around the word "pitch" when they mean "weight".
 

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crashing aint so bad
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2,271 Posts
Discussion Starter #40
To clear up even more confusion.

You can run just about any gearing combination you desire, so long as the chain and sprockets are of the same type. I.E. 520 chain with 520 sprockets. %30 chain with 530 sprockets.

The " standard " thing to do when changing from a 530 - 520 chain is to go the -1 +2 format. This is just the popular thing to do, not the rule, or must have deal. You can run -2 +1, -0 +4, or even -1 -1 if you desire. It's up to you which gearing you choose.
 
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