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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm attempting an install of gold valves on my 09 forks and am having a tough time pulling apart the cartridge to access the rebound valving.

I have the cartridge in my vise with the racetech cartridge holder (24mm dia) holding the cartridge in place, but any time I try to apply torque to the cartridge tool to remove the 4-pronged cap, the cartridge slips in the vise. I've read the cap needs heat to melt the thread locker, which I've used my heat gun to warm it up, but the cartridge continues to spin.

I called racetech and was told another method is to use a long piece of PVC to knock the oil stop on the damper rod loose so that I can access the clip underneath; allowing me to remove the rod from the cartridge.

Does anyone have any personal experience with this? I've already replaced the compression valving and got new springs, but this is the last stupid little thing is stopping me from finishing the rebuild. Sorry if this is a long rambling post, but this shit is hard to explain. Any advice is appreciated.

For reference: I'm at the step where this guy uses the 17mm wrench and cone wrench to remove the bottom out cone, but there is no place for me to use any wrench on my 09 forks. (17th pic from the top)
http://www.speedzilla.com/forums/honda-rc51/63563-how-service-forks.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I had the same problem last year when I did my valves on my 08 R6. I did end up knocking the cone down to get at the clip. This is where I got stuck when I asked for help.

http://www.jenningsgp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=1548&hilit=need+fork+help
You're the man. Hope you don't mind answering a couple more questions.

1. How much force did it take to knock the cone down? Dead blow hammer? I plan on stopping by lowes tomorrow to get a length of PVC, but any advice otherwise would be appreciated.

2. After you got the valving done, did you have to re-crimp the cone in place or does the clip underneath hold it up?

I've googled the hell out of this, but there isn't much info out there.
 

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I will answer as best I can remember
1. You wont need a dead blow hammer that's way over kill. Just the PVC pipe and a quick semi hard blow should do it.
2. The clip holds it place, once you get it apart you will see what Race Tech was trying to tell you.
 

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I'm taking mine apart to clean them now from an 07 R6. I know this is a long time after last post but for anyone who might come across this, there are two flats machined into the piece where the spring is attached and the top piece has two flats as well. These unthread from each other giving access to the C clip. I had to machine a custom tool for the small slots since they're only 1/10 inch thick so no normal wrench will work. I don't see how hammering the cone down wouldn't F stuff up honestly.
 

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I have 2003 Yamaha r6 I take care of it good but when I drive the code 46 keeps coming on in off I have check my battery got a new rectifier in my bike runs fine can YOU PLEASE HELP in tell me whats going on
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm taking mine apart to clean them now from an 07 R6. I know this is a long time after last post but for anyone who might come across this, there are two flats machined into the piece where the spring is attached and the top piece has two flats as well. These unthread from each other giving access to the C clip. I had to machine a custom tool for the small slots since they're only 1/10 inch thick so no normal wrench will work. I don't see how hammering the cone down wouldn't F stuff up honestly.
As far as I remember, there is a difference between the internals of the 07/08+ r6 forks, where you can't unthread it. I could be wrong, but I gave it my best effort to unthread.

It sounds crazy, but that's what I was told by Racetech, and it was a ridiculous shot in the dark when I got an answer on here. It worked and has continued to work.
 
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