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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey all....

So I know there are numerous threads pertaining to this specific topic, and few great quality posts to the information I am about to reference from members on this forum and else where on the web. I take no credit whatsoever for this mod, as Endleesss has created a cheap DIY bypass for the EXUP servo to eliminate the ECU warning code #17 & #18 (rather than purchasing a graves EXUP eliminator), and HotwiRe for some basic how-to pictures on this process. The original thread about this can be found here.

However, in process of doing this I came across a lot of misleading and conflicting information. With that being said the purpose of this thread is to easily sum up how to completely remove and bypass the EXUP system on 2006+ Yamaha R6's.

Do-It-Yourself EXUP Removal, 2006+ Yamaha R6​

Brief Description: This guide will cover how to remove the EXUP cables from the EXUP butterfly valve on a STOCK 07' exhaust, and how to create a bypass for the EXUP servo in the EXUP control box to eliminate the check engine light and diagnostic codes #17 & #18 from appearing. The entire process from start to finish will take approximately 30 minutes to 1 hour. (Note: This same process can be used with aftermarket exhausts and slip-on's to eliminate the same check engine light and error codes). This is the $2 EXUP fix DIY rather than paying $70 for the Graves EXUP eliminator, both work and both are essentially the same thing.

What You'll Need
  1. 8mm or 10 mm Crescent Wrench
  2. Phillips Head Screwdriver
  3. Wire Cutters
  4. Alan Wrench (s)
  5. Adjustable Crescent Wrench
  6. 4.7 kOhm Resistor 1/2 Watt
  7. 470uF 35v Capacitor
  8. Soldering Iron (w/ Solder & Flux)
  9. Electrical Tape
The resistor, capacitor and solder can be purchased at your local Radio Shack and any tools needed your local hardware store for under $20.00.

Step 1



Remove the EXUP Butterfly Valve Cover from the Exhaust by removing bolts #1, #2, and #3. This will give you access to the EXUP cables so they can be removed (as shown below).





Above is a close up of the nuts holding the EXUP cables in place to the butterfly valve. Remove nuts #1 & #2 first so that you can remove EXUP cable #2, and then remove nuts #3 & #4 so that you can remove EXUP cable #1.



Before the cables can be completely removed, you must also remove a small bracket holding the cables in place. To do this remove screw #1 with a crescent wrench (Yes this picture is without the EXUP butterfly valve cover removed, I forgot to take the picture during the process and did so after I completed the bypass)

Now that the EXUP cables have been removed from the bike, you must remove the EXUP control box (Housing the EXUP servo and motor).



To do this remove bolts #1 & #2 using an 8mm crescent wrench (or 10mm for 2010+ models). After these bolts have been removed, along with the previous process for the EXUP cables the whole assembly (EXUP Control Box and Cables) should be easily removed by pulling out the rightside of the bike. You will have to remove the EXUP control wires from the EXUP servo connection before doing this (Picture shown below)

It should look something like this



Step 2

After completely removing the EXUP Control Box and EXUP Cables from the bike you are ready to rewire the servo using the 4.7 kOhm 1/2 Capacitor and 470uF 35v Capacitor. Set up your soldering iron so it can heat up and complete the following directions.

First remove the rubber cover around the EXUP Control Box



Once the rubber cover has been removed it should look like the above picture. Next remove the EXUP cables from the EXUP control box. Now we must remove bolt #7. To do this use an adjustable wrench at #8 to hold the bolt in place, and use an alan wrench to remove bolt #7. After this has been completed use a phillips head screwdriver to remove screws #1, #2, #3, #4, #5, and #6. After removing the above bolt and screws the top cover of the EXUP control box should be easily removable.



After removing the cover from the EXUP control box the internal components should look something like this. Remove the plug, motor, gears and pull all o the components out of the housing.



Next, cut all of the wires as shown above. Don't worry too much about the green and red wires as they will not be used for anything, but do make sure you have enough orange, black and white wire to strip the ends of them. You can discard the motor and gear control.



Now we will rewire the servo to trick the ECU into thinking the EXUP is still connected, but effectively removing the check engine light and #17 & #18 warning codes. To do this strip the ends of the black, white and orange wires. After this has been done solder the black and white wires together. Also, I recommend taping off the green and red wires with electrical tape to prevent any arching.



Now solder the 4.7 kOhm 1/2 watt resistor to the black and white wires as shown. Be sure to connect the correct end (shown by a gold strip on the side of the resistor that is connected to the black/white wires). After doing this, solder the 470uF 35v capacitor to the orange wire as shown (The black strip on the capacitor with the negative sign, denotes "negative" - be sure to solder this side to the orange wire). And finally solder the positive side of the capacitor to the correct end of the resistor (shown by a yellow strip on the side of the resistor that is connected to the capacitor). Once you are done it should look like the above picture.

A wiring diagram, created by Endleesss (along with this entire bypass) can be found at the link in the intro or referenced in the picture below. (AGAIN ALL CREDIT GOES TO Endleesss - AS HE IS THE SOLE CREATOR OF THIS BYPASS)





Once the bypass has been made I recommend taping off all bare wire with electrical tape to prevent any arching. Not sure if it matters if you cover the resistor or capacitor, but just in case I did not.



After completing the bypass install it back into the housing, making sure to properly insert the EXUP connector back into the plug housing. Also, don't forget to re install the white plug that holds the EXUP connector in place. Once this has been completed, refer to the above steps to re install the EXUP control box cover and rubber cover. Plug the EXUP wire on the back of the bike back into the EXUP Control box (EXUP Servo Connections) and reinstall it back on the bike. Also, if you havn't already remember to re install the EXUP butterfly valve cover that was taken off at the beginning of step one.

Hope this works well for you and answers any doubt or question you may have had for this process. I have done this to my bike, still with the stock exhaust and no problems since the install.

Thanks again Endleesss and HotwiRe for the information, and to all that have read this. Feel free to post any additional information you think may be helpful.
 

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iRun
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33,318 Posts
Nice. There's another thread for this, but it's very cluttered. I'm glad we've got one that's clean and definitive. You should attach the pics to the post at the bottom, so if you move the pics in photobucket, this thread doesn't die.
 

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FairladyZ33
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207 Posts
Nice write up.

But 1 thing.

Why would you re-install your modified plug back into that HUGE housing. When you could just take the cables off and not have to do anything. Seems like putting the new modified plug into a relay housing would be a wiser choice.
 

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iRun
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33,318 Posts
Nice write up.

But 1 thing.

Why would you re-install your modified plug back into that HUGE housing. When you could just take the cables off and not have to do anything. Seems like putting the new modified plug into a relay housing would be a wiser choice.
Personally, when I soldered everything back together, I just wrapped it all in a shitload of electrical tape and stuffed it up under the tank.. and forgot about it forever.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah, I know I can get rid of the box alltogether and also save some weight, but this was simpler for me to do and I don't mind the look on the back of my bike. Honestly never even noticed it was there until I decided to do this DIY. Maybe in the future though I will make another thread on this..
 

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Dangerously Irish
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Very nice!
 

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i've seen something like this done but it was too complicated..thanks op for making it simple/ easy to follow. have anybody done this? does it really work?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
i've seen something like this done but it was too complicated..thanks op for making it simple/ easy to follow. have anybody done this? does it really work?
Thats what I thought before I started it, but yes it works. I have done it now, and there are a lot of other people on this forum that have as well. Its basically the same thing as the graves eliminator just not professionally manufactured
 

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Personally, when I soldered everything back together, I just wrapped it all in a shitload of electrical tape and stuffed it up under the tank.. and forgot about it forever.
This is what I did.


OP, nice job putting it all together. One more suggestion is to insert the wiring diagram on your write up. (Get permission if you want)
 

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iRun
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Thats what I thought before I started it, but yes it works. I have done it now, and there are a lot of other people on this forum that have as well. Its basically the same thing as the graves eliminator just not professionally manufactured
This. Also instead of costing $60, it costs $3.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
This is what I did.


OP, nice job putting it all together. One more suggestion is to insert the wiring diagram on your write up. (Get permission if you want)

Thanks for the great idea, I just edited the post and added the diagram in.

cheers
 

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I eat my r6
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Nice! SOoOo? does anyone want to buy an EXUP plug for $60 from me? lol.
 

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*cough* just have your ECU Flashed so you don't have to do anything and can still remove it *cough*
 

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Thanks, Finally did this off your tutorial. I had seen the other ones previously but they were not as easy to follow as this. Cost me like $2.80 and took 30 minutes including the trip to Radioshack.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks, Finally did this off your tutorial. I had seen the other ones previously but they were not as easy to follow as this. Cost me like $2.80 and took 30 minutes including the trip to Radioshack.
Ya it's a great and pretty easy fix to the EXUP problem. Glad I could help.
:flex:
 
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