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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
look to your left! :secret all i see is annitori blinking in the ad window


http://annitori.com/
Well I looked into it. Its around $350 for the kit, which is fine. I just want to make sure of something. I'm not taking the bike on the track for easily a year or two. Will I gain a lot more for the extra $200 over the dynojet version to make it worth it? What I'm asking is what makes it better other than costing more?
 

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Well I looked into it. Its around $350 for the kit, which is fine. I just want to make sure of something. I'm not taking the bike on the track for easily a year or two. Will I gain a lot more for the extra $200 over the dynojet version to make it worth it? What I'm asking is what makes it better other than costing more?
Go with the annitori simple install plug and play into ur coils. Biggest difference with annitori vs other units is that its a strain gauge sensor thats fully digital so it doesnt have moving larts that can go bad from wear and tear. I've had my gen 1 for 3 years now and never once had a problem with it. Theyre saying the gen 2 is smoother which is hard to believe as mine is really smooth. Great part about it is that you can adjust the pressure sensitivity that you apply in order to shift.

Im actually about to pick one up for my s1000rr to replace the stock QS
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Go with the annitori simple install plug and play into ur coils. Biggest difference with annitori vs other units is that its a strain gauge sensor thats fully digital so it doesnt have moving larts that can go bad from wear and tear. I've had my gen 1 for 3 years now and never once had a problem with it. Theyre saying the gen 2 is smoother which is hard to believe as mine is really smooth. Great part about it is that you can adjust the pressure sensitivity that you apply in order to shift.

Im actually about to pick one up for my s1000rr to replace the stock QS
Would I even need to enable the quickshift portion at that point since it doesnt interact with the ECU at all?
 

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you can't do the $150 dj one without the pc5 i don't believe. so on top of the $150, you're looking at another $250-300. and the RL can be found for ~$300 if you know how to search the internet with any skill. ;)
 

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OP - you're interested in a quickshifter but not planning to track for a year or two??

how about the obvious thought....skip the quickshifter, you don't need it, and put those funds towards a td now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
OP - you're interested in a quickshifter but not planning to track for a year or two??

how about the obvious thought....skip the quickshifter, you don't need it, and put those funds towards a td now.
Well the only issue I have with that is that my current location is 6 hours from the nearest track. I will be moving in a year or two though.
 

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If your ecu is flashed for quickshifter you just need to ground one of the quickshifter wires to the negative terminal on the battery and plug the other wire into I believe it's pin 21 on the wiring harness and you are good to go
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
If your ecu is flashed for quickshifter you just need to ground one of the quickshifter wires to the negative terminal on the battery and plug the other wire into I believe it's pin 21 on the wiring harness and you are good to go
This. This is what I wanted. Thank you 01WJ.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If your ecu is flashed for quickshifter you just need to ground one of the quickshifter wires to the negative terminal on the battery and plug the other wire into I believe it's pin 21 on the wiring harness and you are good to go
I do have a question. What kind of hardware do I need? Do I just need the rods and the sensor or what?
 

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I do have a question. What kind of hardware do I need? Do I just need the rods and the sensor or what?
Flash-tune used to sell a sweet little plug and play harness that came with the ECU pin (pretty much that's all you need). It's the cable at the bottom of this pic:



I don't see it listed on their website anymore, just a new cable for using their new flash installed harness connector thingie.

That's a plug and play cable if you used any Dynojet quickshift sensor. If using another brand of MECHANICAL sensor (NOT digital i.e. bazzaz, NOT strain gauge i.e. annitori/HM) you can just cut off that white plug and wire it up directly. There is a way to wire up a Bazzaz sensor, they are super nice when wired to the ecu, but it's a bit more complicated and requires a bit of tuning of the kill table (you'd need the flash tune equipment to make the changes).

That pic is from Danso Performance: http://www.danosperformance.com/quick_shifter_switch.htm (R6 kit is at the bottom). Maybe you could ask them if they have just the quickshift harness cables for sale? Another member on here or R1 forum posted one time where you can buy the actual ECU pins, so you can just make up your own cable.

I generally don't recommend Danso Perfomance quick shifter kits because the sensor is SUPER stiff. You absolutely have to stomp on it to get it to quickshift :(

I bought a used Dynojet sensor, had a custom shift rod welded up of the proper length so I could attach the sensor, connected it to the ECU using the plug and play cable from flash-tune (the one that's at the bottom of the above pic).



Shifts like absolute butter :D

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uExCuK0XhAQ

-Jamie M.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Flash-tune used to sell a sweet little plug and play harness that came with the ECU pin (pretty much that's all you need). It's the cable at the bottom of this pic:



I don't see it listed on their website anymore, just a new cable for using their new flash installed harness connector thingie.

That's a plug and play cable if you used any Dynojet quickshift sensor. If using another brand of MECHANICAL sensor (NOT digital i.e. bazzaz, NOT strain gauge i.e. annitori/HM) you can just cut off that white plug and wire it up directly. There is a way to wire up a Bazzaz sensor, they are super nice when wired to the ecu, but it's a bit more complicated and requires a bit of tuning of the kill table (you'd need the flash tune equipment to make the changes).

That pic is from Danso Performance: http://www.danosperformance.com/quick_shifter_switch.htm (R6 kit is at the bottom). Maybe you could ask them if they have just the quickshift harness cables for sale? Another member on here or R1 forum posted one time where you can buy the actual ECU pins, so you can just make up your own cable.

I generally don't recommend Danso Perfomance quick shifter kits because the sensor is SUPER stiff. You absolutely have to stomp on it to get it to quickshift :(

I bought a used Dynojet sensor, had a custom shift rod welded up of the proper length so I could attach the sensor, connected it to the ECU using the plug and play cable from flash-tune (the one that's at the bottom of the above pic).



Shifts like absolute butter :D

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uExCuK0XhAQ

-Jamie M.
Very awesome info Jamie. :) Thank you for your help! I just bid on a sensor on Ebay and sent an email to Danos to see if I can get that harness. I have a feeling that I can. Otherwise if I cannot, I feel like I can make one (I'm a communications nerd). I'll let you know how it goes!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
If your ecu is flashed for quickshifter you just need to ground one of the quickshifter wires to the negative terminal on the battery and plug the other wire into I believe it's pin 21 on the wiring harness and you are good to go
So I got the sensor in the mail the other day. The two wires are green and blue. Does it matter which wire goes to the battery and which wire goes to the ecu?
 
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