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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, new to the forums as a poster, but have been using the information to learn and maintain my bike since I got it back in 09.

I have an 07 R6S, K&N air filter, yosh slip on, and PCIII usb.

Yesterday, i was doing some work on contacts (cleaning and what not) and general maintenance. Put everything back together and turned the bike on and had her purring very happily. Then in a flash it was no longer happy.

While the bike was running, a screwdriver fell and happened to land in a way where the head touched the positive terminal of battery on it's way to the ground. When it touched, the terminal arced, and then everything just died... absolutely no display, priming, nothing.
My first instinct was a blown fuse, so i checked the 2 main on the starter relay and the rest in the fuse box under the left upper cowling. All good, ohmed out. Checked again... good. I must have checked 5x before fully believing it wasn't a fuse issue.

Now when i turn the key to the on position, I get nothing except the neutral light will flicker quick, but no display, no priming, just that one flicker. when i turn the key back to the off position, about 2 sec AFTER i turn it off, the rpm needle will rotate like it does when the fuel pump is priming when you normally turn it on... I'm so depressed.

I'm going to check the voltage on the battery today, then the starter relay, but after that.. I was hoping someone may have some insight. Anyone ever short their battery while the bike was on? Or am i the only Dumba** :(((

Any help would be very appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OK, so after a lot of tinkering yesterday, we figured out at least the biggest cause of everything.
My original response of 1V after turning the key must've been a misreading due to bad connection on the multi. because everything we did after that, I never say any readings like that. And again, I checked all the fuses right after the incident, visual and ohm check to make sure they were all good (main and fuse box).

Happened to turn on the bike to check the voltage drop on the battery, nothing, still reads 12.7 - 12.8V on or off. Ok, battery must be ok, but I'll check the drop by connecting a bulb just to make sure. Yanked the brake bulb out of my car and connected lead to the battery. get about a 0.3V drop, so 12.4V on the battery.
However, after having left the bike on for about 10 sec, the starter circuit cut-off relay starts to click at a constant pace. <-- New symptom! :poke
Turn the key on and off, and now get this consistently. And if I let it click, for a while, all of a sudden, the display comes on. Turn the bike off and on again, fuel pump primes, display comes up and no clicks like normal.... what..? Almost like it was charging. :dunce:
Press the start button, loud click, and no movement. display remains on, but circuit cut-off relay starts clicking again. voltage drop on the battery when i pressed the start button was about 9v instantaneously, from 12.8V - around 3 or 4V and rose back up right after. Makes sense since the starter draws a crapload.

Held the circuit cut-off relay wires to see if any heat up to indicate a short in any of the wires coming out. No abnormally hot wires. After a couple of start button presses, narrowed the loud single click to the main starter relay. Left the lead from the battery connected, and disconnected the lead that goes to the starter motor. checked continuity between them (Used a wire i connected to the negative battery terminal) and used the brake bulb to bridge between negative battery terminal and the starter motor connection side of the starter relay. Bulb lights up! so relay is ok.
Since the main fuses are ok, and the electrical components seem to be funtional, start thinking its the starter motor that got fried.

To test, pushed the bike up my hill a ways, put it in second, turned the key on, and started to roll. At about 12 mph, popped the clutch out, and the bike turns on, engine running!:toocool:
While it was running, made sure to test all the electrical components to be sure everything was working properly. From this, we gathered the starter solenoid probably got fried when the battery shorted.
This may not be the ONLY thing, but its definitely the main thing right now. Going to replace the starter after i get the part (either stealership or amazon depeding on the price). Will update after get that installed.

Thanks for the replies! I may have missed a couple steps in there, just writing from memory, but figured I'd post the diagnostic process we went through in case it helps anyone.
 

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I ride my wife and her R6
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If this were my bike I would charge the battery and try to start it with the starter again with a fully charged battery. If you still suspect the starter, try tapping it while the button is in to see if the armature is just stuck. If it starts after you tap it, you need a rebuild or a new starter. If it doesn't start you may need a new battery if it drops below 10v.

While you have it running you might as well test the charging system as well. It wouldn't hurt anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well, the problem with the starter wasnt a weak draw, because it wasn't even trying to turn. The signal was getting cut at the main starter relay (the loud click/pop). I'm gonna through the charger on today after all the diagnosis we did yesterday just for peace of mind.
And the "push start" down the hill was our test for the starter, since obviously the gears are turning as the bike started when i popped the clutch. Its just the solenoid portion of the starter motor not driving the starter gearing.

Ordered a replacement starter, and when i throw that it in, assuming it starts then, I'll double check the charging system. And if there are any other problems, it'll be easier to diagnose at that point
 
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