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I have an 02 r6, on four separate occasions (months apart)she has just died on me while riding. , 3 on the freeway, 1 on a back road, i'll be riding and hit the throttle and she'll sputter a little and eventually just flat out die, i'll coast to a stop and she won't crank again for an uncertain amount of time. after stopping she won't crank again no matter what i do choke or no choke eventually she'll start again like nothing happened. last friday i was stuck on the side of i95 for an hour before she decided it was time to start again. i replaced the fuel filter in nov/dec because i thought that was the problem. The cut off is completely random so i can't recreate the problem,:mad: so i have no clue what the fix is.

Any ideas or help is much appreciated , being stranded on the highway is not fun
 

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2B R <> 2B
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I have an 02 r6, on four separate occasions (months apart)she has just died on me while riding. , 3 on the freeway, 1 on a back road, i'll be riding and hit the throttle and she'll sputter a little and eventually just flat out die, i'll coast to a stop and she won't crank again for an uncertain amount of time. after stopping she won't crank again no matter what i do choke or no choke eventually she'll start again like nothing happened. last friday i was stuck on the side of i95 for an hour before she decided it was time to start again. i replaced the fuel filter in nov/dec because i thought that was the problem. The cut off is completely random so i can't recreate the problem,:mad: so i have no clue what the fix is.

Any ideas or help is much appreciated , being stranded on the highway is not fun
Sounds like that stator is going bad on the bike...

The guages start going up and down and then it turns off?

I really think its the stator...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I didn't see the gauges going crazy, they were moving normally, i think it's fuel related , the bike just loses all power and dies
 

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I have an 01 and had the same problem twice....for 2 different reasons. the first time my ecu was shorting out, the second time was because of a vacuum forming in my gas tank. i cracked the filler cap, gas shot out as air rushed in, and it was fine.
 

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I'm having the same issue. Just ordered a new stator and gasket from bikebandit.
Publicsrvr: did you replace your ecu to solve the problem? If not, did it "short out" again? Also, how did you know it was shorting out in the first place? Twice now, my instrument panel has gone crazy, RPM needle bouncing, MPH readout pulsating and giving random readings, then headlights pulse and, finally, bike cuts off and won't stay on after push starting. This is after a new Yamaha battery. Battery tested at just over 24 volts at install as per instructions, but now at around 12 volts. Ran pretty well for a while, but diminished and today it didn't want to go over 10k rpms in 5th gear and threw a fit like I mentioned above after riding quite a bit today. Hope it's just the stator, but since the instrument panel and headlights were pulsating right before stalling, I think the stator must be working a little but just not enough to keep the battery charged, especially when pushing the bike at higher speeds.
 

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I'm having the same issue. Just ordered a new stator and gasket from bikebandit.
Publicsrvr: did you replace your ecu to solve the problem? If not, did it "short out" again? Also, how did you know it was shorting out in the first place? Twice now, my instrument panel has gone crazy, RPM needle bouncing, MPH readout pulsating and giving random readings, then headlights pulse and, finally, bike cuts off and won't stay on after push starting. This is after a new Yamaha battery. Battery tested at just over 24 volts at install as per instructions, but now at around 12 volts. Ran pretty well for a while, but diminished and today it didn't want to go over 10k rpms in 5th gear and threw a fit like I mentioned above after riding quite a bit today. Hope it's just the stator, but since the instrument panel and headlights were pulsating right before stalling, I think the stator must be working a little but just not enough to keep the battery charged, especially when pushing the bike at higher speeds.
Battery with nothing connected will test high but I can't see it that high. If you have a multimeter you can test the battery when plugged in a throttle it to I think 5K rpm that when the charger kicks in. You should see about 13 volts for normal and 14-15 volts when its at that range.
 

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I ended up taking it to a bike shop where they pulled the ecu out and the connectors were literally melted onto the unit itself. I wouldn't have known otherwise but I guess you could just pull the unit out and check the connectors, it was pretty obvious.
 

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blksniper2000 the engine will not turn over at all? You may have a malfunctioning kill switch, kick stand switch, or a bad starting circuit cutoff relay.

2k2r6 check your voltage regulator/rectifier. It is the black heat sink looking thing under your seat. You dont have to take the seat off just look under the bike's tail faring. It has 5 wires going into it. 1 black, 1 red and 3 white ones. Pull that connector out and see if it is burned or corroded. You can do a search for the voltage R/R, I know I explained how to test it using a multimeter in a different post. If it goes bad the bike will run but not charge the battery, so once the battery charge runs out it will flicker the lights, tach needle, sputter and die.
 

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after replacing rectifier yesterday and still having the same problem I had two different bike mechanics tell me pretty much the same thing:
A bad rectifier fries a bad stator and a bad stator fries a rectifier, so I'm back to square one with a bad rectifier and bad stator.
They also predict it is a short somewhere and I don't feel up to finding it in all of those wires, especially after wasting my time and money on a new stator and used rectifier. Going to take it to a mechanic and cringe in anticipation of the tremendous pain in my wallet.
 

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One of my fellow teachers at my school has an 02 R6 and she was having the same trouble. I brought my multimeter tester to check the voltage regulator because when she described the symptoms to me it sounded exactly like when it went bad on my last Yamaha. It turned out that the VR was fine and the voltage regulator plug was fried.......it some how must have got a short in it. After replacing that faulty, burnt up plug the problem was solved! :toocool: From what I've heard, this plug getting fried is a common issue on the 99-02 R6's.
 

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BTW, forgot to mention, I checked the stator plugs when I replaced it as well as the regulator and didn't see any signs of corrosion or burning like most guys seem to have when these problems occur.
 

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Okay, after taking a break for a few months, I'm no longer frustrated and am now ready to try again, but take my time and learn more about electricity. Turns out the repair manual has some really helpful definitions/explanations in the troubleshooting chapter (3) whereas I was concentrating mainly on chter 10 without some basic understanding. Looks like I may need a few more inexpensive tools, but it's a lot less daunting than I thought. I've got another wiring harness and it should be here within the week. Will post as I progress. Thanks guys.
 

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I've had a similar issue on my '99. Except, my motor doesn't cut out. The engine is still running, it's just that my throttle won't give any power to the wheel, almost like the bike went into neutral. But it's not happening right after shifting, so I don't think the clutch is getting stuck. It's happening when I had been in 5th or 6th gear for awhile. I've had it happen twice, once on the highway, and had to pull over and restart. The second time, the bike wouldn't restart for like 5 minutes. Does this sound like a similar problem? I'm trying to figure out what to do.
 

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Oh yeah, it occurred to me that an earlier mistake I made might be causing this. While changing the front turn signals to led, I accidentally touched the + & - signal leads together and blew the main fuse. Bike started fine after I put a new fuse in, but maybe that wasn't the only fuse I blew out. I'll check all other fuses soon, but can any of you more knowledgeable on this subject think of anything else that could have been affected that is causing a short, or circuit to be open and causing my charging system to fail?
 

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http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64567

here's what happened to me
if you have replaced any turn signals or other wiring, check the connections. I had the same problem, it was a loose plug. I found out after I tried all the things listed above.
It was not a plug for anything I changed but further down the line. I must have pulled on the lines too hard when putting in the integrated light.
Luckly I was able to return all the not needed part I got trying all the things these guys suggested. Sometimes it's the dumbest things, $6 part fixed her right up.
 
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