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Discussion Starter #1
2010 r6

At track and bike went well all day, end of the day orange light on dash and strange power feel.

Shut bike off got error 46 and bike wouldn't start again like battery was flat.

Next day bike started and error 46 none existing.

Ac volts at sator is 35v at 3000rpm.

When revving engine battery sits at around 14.1v. it also sits 14.1 when at idle.

No ideaseft for what the issue could be? Any help appreciated.
 

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2010 r6

At track and bike went well all day, end of the day orange light on dash and strange power feel.

Shut bike off got error 46 and bike wouldn't start again like battery was flat.

Next day bike started and error 46 none existing.

Ac volts at sator is 35v at 3000rpm.

When revving engine battery sits at around 14.1v. it also sits 14.1 when at idle.

No ideaseft for what the issue could be? Any help appreciated.
Try checking all the wires and make sure none of them are burning up or ripped or anything like that, since you were at the track the whole day maybe the bike got a little hotter than usual and some wires got fried, and when you revved the engine to check the voltage on the battery, what were the revs? maybe you didnt rev it high enough to see if the regulator rectifier was putting out the correct voltage, not a mechanical genius but thats just my guess on the situation.
 

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What does the manual say about error code 46?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Open circuit, issue with charging system ie stator, R/R.

Not anything about battery but think it may be??

Charges now when running at 14.10v

All other checks on r/r and stator are good.

I've also removed the plastic plug that goes to the r/r and just fitted the spades straight onto the r/r.
 

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Much much older bikes had issues with the contact pins for the regulator corroding. Corrosion is not always obvious. As the metal composition changes, internal resistances increase. Resistors convert energy to heat. If the plastic plug was distorted, that's your indication that these pins were way too hot. That heat, also rapidly accelerates the corrosion process. Sometimes you can just get away with replacing the female blade terminals on the wire, but often one must replace both the male and female ends; which means replacing the regulator in this case.

Any electrical changes, such as adding lights, quick-shifter, etcetera? Don't know about 3rd-Gen, but 2nd-Gen regulators have extremely little overhead for add-ons. Add-ons should be on a relay that is powered via the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for chipping in Intuit!

My plug to the R/R was slightly distorted and is obviously had a lot of heat.

My battery reading last test was 14.1 with engine running, revving barely makes a difference.

My question is when I test stator with engine running im only getting 35-36 AC V at 3k revs, this seems low to me??

The bike has a power commander and quick shifter but no lights, Ive actually just fitted a slipper but not used it yet.

Only a track bike so gets red lined all day when in use.

Thanks for reading
 

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Lights consume a lot of power so with them removed, no worries there.

I've not had to personally troubleshoot a stator failure so don't know the answer to that question.
Are the contacts between the stator and rectifier/regulator also affected?

14.1 seems to be fine. I'd replace the regulator and female blade contacts, then monitor voltage during use.
Re volt-meter / USB adapter installation... (likely no necessary for a track bike)
 
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