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Yea figured it was a rare occasion, and the only times it probably has happened is from people forgetting to tighten it all together.

Just food for further debate.
 

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fine threads generally resist vibration influence. Theoretically putting the nut on the sprocket side could loosen if the captive side of the axle failed or rounded. I dont think ANYONE has ever found an R6 axle to loosen on its own.
One more time dipshit, its not to keep the nut on. Its too keep the wheel in place. If the swingarm had a round hole that fits the axle so its fixed then the torque would probabaly be 50. but the wheel is held in place by clamping force. 45 isnt enough. In fact name any bike by suzuki, yamaha, kawasaki and ill post a screenshot of the axle torque spec for the rear and the front. Ill bet you no bike ever made has an axle (front too) set below 50.

I dont care what your idiot buddies at the daytona 200 do to their pile od shit bike. Most guys that race are semi dipshits that ive met.
 

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...
I dont care what your idiot buddies at the daytona 200 do to their pile od shit bike. Most guys that race are semi dipshits that ive met.
just want to quote this for posterity. If & when you meet racers (not at a fan walk)... Be sure to let them know your broad brush comment and which side they qualify for (dip shit or non dip shit)
Yes and dont forget... the top 20 is paying $$$ to competitors that finish a silly 57 lap race. Whats so hard about finishing a 57 lap race? Please show up and qualify inside the top 20 with your awesome riding or wrenching skill set. I will give up my day job and become your indentured servant if that happens! :grin: HINT: B group trackday riders cant qualify!

Shit Id give you $10,000 in cash & prizes... if you can do 1 lap under 2 minutes there. You will have to use a transponder not some lame lap app.
 

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Without agreeing or disagreeing with anyone in this thread I can tell you that @TurboBlew; has well over 20 bikes across the country; he had ridden tracks all over the country; has raced for many years; and has been a mechanic for at least one professional racer that I know of.

That being said, I am scared and tighten all my stuff the factory specs.
 

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~Faster Than Lightning~
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So me tightening to 100 ft*lbs is bad? lmao. Sorry but i rather feel safe than sorry.

You both had very compelling arguments though.
 

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Without agreeing or disagreeing with anyone in this thread I can tell you that @TurboBlew; has well over 20 bikes across the country; he had ridden tracks all over the country; has raced for many years; and has been a mechanic for at least one professional racer that I know of.

That being said, I am wise and tighten all my stuff the factory specs.

The correction is in red. :wink:
 

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Without agreeing or disagreeing with anyone in this thread I can tell you that @TurboBlew; has well over 20 bikes across the country; he had ridden tracks all over the country; has raced for many years; and has been a mechanic for at least one professional racer that I know of.

That being said, I am scared and tighten all my stuff the factory specs.
He equates someone that is a good rider to someone that is intelligent or highly mechanically inclined. Someone riding abilities doesnt mean jack squat. I know a guy that can ride at the same pace(aka raced with) a few of the current ss guys in motoamerica. and he thinks automatic trans fluid is the same as fork oil and puts it in people forks that come ti his shop for service in their bikes.
 

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My R6 glows at night.
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Discussion Starter #29
Well this has gotten a bit off the rails XD wasn't trying to start an argument.

Just wanted some other opinions since I have two conflicting pieces of advice. One being a mechanic of 20+ years who specializes in Japanese sport bikes, and the other being the manufacturer manual, two sources which when taken individually I would consider fairly unimpeachable.
 

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Well this has gotten a bit off the rails XD wasn't trying to start an argument.

Just wanted some other opinions since I have two conflicting pieces of advice. One being a mechanic of 20+ years who specializes in Japanese sport bikes, and the other being the manufacturer manual, two sources which when taken individually I would consider fairly unimpeachable.
Haha, welcome to the forums. When those 2 get involved it gets pretty entertaining.
 

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~Faster Than Lightning~
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Well this has gotten a bit off the rails XD wasn't trying to start an argument.

Just wanted some other opinions since I have two conflicting pieces of advice. One being a mechanic of 20+ years who specializes in Japanese sport bikes, and the other being the manufacturer manual, two sources which when taken individually I would consider fairly unimpeachable.
Haha, welcome to the forums. When those 2 get involved it gets pretty entertaining.

Lol yes, but turbo and yamaha have great knowledge as well
 

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He equates someone that is a good rider to someone that is intelligent or highly mechanically inclined. Someone riding abilities doesnt mean jack squat. I know a guy that can ride at the same pace(aka raced with) a few of the current ss guys in motoamerica. and he thinks automatic trans fluid is the same as fork oil and puts it in people forks that come ti his shop for service in their bikes.
Where did I ever draw that parallel?
 

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thats great. Now go do the experiment I posted and let us know the results!
Also my bike(s) pass race/track tech with no issues. If you want to use 90+ ft lbs... thats great for you.
This is real elementary stuff. Come to the Daytona 200 and bring your torque wrench . See how many of the top 20 are running 90 ft lbs of torque on their R6 axles...lol
TurboBlew, come on. Pleas stop it. This is not a game. This is just really just common sense. Every time someone makes a point you can't counter, you cut out 90% of their quote and attempt to counter only a single sentence or few. Under those circumstances any "conversation" can literally go on forever. Rear wheel axle nut spec for my '08 R6 is listed at 80 ft-lbs in the manual. If @yamahacrazy went into his shop and started advising customers to cut their axle nut torque in half, (44% to be precise,) he would/should be fired on the spot. That's just beyond negligent... and for a small business, one lawsuit could be enough to put them under. I've not had any reason to remove my axle nuts between tire changes. I'm over 20,000 on a set. I don't remove them once a race. Do not universally advise people that cutting their torque specs in half is okay. Just, stop it. If you're removing them multiple times within a couple of hundred miles and have some concerns about prematurely wearing out your axle nut and axle stud threads, then make that argument independent of advising everyone that it's okay to do it under any circumstance. Telling people it is universally okay is just, not wise. It is irresponsible. Racing is about gamesmanship, but truth and potentially wrecking peoples' equipment is not.

If you are not *universally* advising folks that a 44% under-torque is okay, then I apologize. But you need to make that more clear.

Now, seriousness aside, it's a good thing ya'll got that chain on the rear. :grin:
Which one of you did this ?
 

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i just read this and lol its really not that deep both of you mean nothing 2 keyboard warriors going off. its simple everyone has there own way of doing things in this world yeah will it get the job done, sure. but you can bet your ass im following the manual from the people who built my bike if im going 150 down any street race way whatever
 

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reread my original post. There are "engineer" specs and then there are "risk attorney" specs.
Now which one of those has more basis to credibility?

I also gave a very specific experiment to try both specs from the safety of a controlled environment so the end user can make their own observations and form a hypothesis. If you took it as a wholesale recommendation without doing the experiment...thats just laziness on your part.

If youve been around the repair and modification of motorcycles for more than 3 decades then you would soon understand the perscribed axle torque (as well as sprocket nuts) is pretty high.

I really dont give 2 shits what anyone does or doesnt do. I am presenting an issue that has been discussed a decade ago by some very experienced professionals for the purposes of this discussion. The type of guys that take the fundamentals (axle installs, fastener torque, chain tension, maintenance schedules, etc) pretty serious like someones life depended on it.

As for YCs butt hurtness... the same thing applies to riding.
The skill set is based on a structured amount of fundamentals. After a few years of
executing those... you can start to recognize certain "noob" mistakes.
 

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Your mistake is thinking im butthurt by your stupidity.
What next, youll recommend the oil filter should have a 1/16 hole in it? Thats basically the level of stupid riding with an axle at 45 ft/lbs.
But but but joe dirt at daytona recommends a hole in the filter so i do it too...

I honestly fear for the guy listening to someone tell them to cut their wheel torque specs in half.

You know why im currently fixing a 2018 polaris rzr xp 4 1000? Someone thought the factory torque spec for the lug nuts 123ft/lbs is too much and used 60. It broke off 2 studs when they backed out hit the brake caliper mount and ruined the hub, brake caliper mount, the other 3 studs, and the brake rotor.
 

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Your mistake is thinking im butthurt by your stupidity.
What next, youll recommend the oil filter should have a 1/16 hole in it? Thats basically the level of stupid riding with an axle at 45 ft/lbs.
But but but joe dirt at daytona recommends a hole in the filter so i do it too...

I honestly fear for the guy listening to someone tell them to cut their wheel torque specs in half.

You know why im currently fixing a 2018 polaris rzr xp 4 1000? Someone thought the factory torque spec for the lug nuts 123ft/lbs is too much and used 60. It broke off 2 studs when they backed out hit the brake caliper mount and ruined the hub, brake caliper mount, the other 3 studs, and the brake rotor.
Torque specs for Wheel Lug Nuts? - Polaris RZR Forum - RZR Forums.net
Post #13 120 here and all in our group do. We check them every few hundred miles and have still found a couple had loosened a little.

I mean, you can use blue locktite and use less lbs I think. We have to use locktite on RCs especially 3D Helis because the screws will back out if you don't use them. The lbs torque spec thing is pretty weird. If I had the money I would take lbs torque speccing into consideration. If you do too less you are ****ed, if you do exact and it's ****ed then you are ****ed but it's because of the design. Use bigger studs for less lbs torque instead of requiring more which is why torque speccing should be taken into consideration when buying a great offroad vehicle if not modify it to your own but then I assume balance would be off and it would ride wrong which is why you need to get one w/o any issues raised like this. My 2005 R6 has zero issues as I hear other people not being able to start their bike and other things from other manufacturers. This kind of stuff is unexceptable and if it could put you in a point of no return like going off a mountain when you find out you ****ed up on the product buying.

I mean you could add nuts to like 100ft lbs then add another nut over that so it doesn't back out.
 

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Dont get me started on how big of a pile of shit i think polaris is. First they have too many recalls. 2 we get a damn rzr in at least 1 a week needing repair.
The 1 im speaking of, ut also needs a new carrier bearing. The thing has like 15 hrs in it. Guys buy these thing for $20k add another few grand in accessories and they fall apart every time they use them.
We see axles a lot.

But guys also beat on em way too hard. These are basically toys not proffesionally built rock crawlers. They cant take the abuse like some are giving them. 1 guy came in thinking he was gonna get polaris to give him a new shock because he ramped it and busted it in half. He thought polaris is stupid. Shocks dont fold in half with normal use.
 
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