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Speeding is relative
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Saturday I picked up my bike from putting new tires on it rode home. The next day my bike didn't want to start then finally turned over. It didn't want stay running and died. I now see a fault code 20 and the check engine light is on. I had a PCV put on and dyno tuned the previous week. The service manual says it's related to the atmospheric pressure sensor or the intake pressure sensor. How do I meter that out? Do I have leave it plugged in and the ignition on but not running? They are the same part but in different locations. Do I poke into the wire on the plug?
 

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Speeding is relative
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81 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
The manual also says to check the hose on the sensor. There are about 8 little inter-connecting hoses that tie into this sensor and the thottle body assembly. Am i to pull all those hoses and check or change them? If anyone has done this i'd appreciate any help or advice.
 

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Hey...watch this
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560 Posts
I had the exact problem after I installed my PCV - and it has NOTHING to do with the PCV.
I have the Hotbodies racing fairing, but I suspect your sensor is near the same place, in the tail section. I found that the wires inside the connector for the sensor were not soldered, and not crimped well. It is a trick to pull the 3 pins out of the connector, but it can be done. Pull them out, solder them, put them back in (in the right holes, duh) and all will be OK.
 

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Speeding is relative
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81 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I don't think I understand how to do that. How would I solder the pins if pulled them out. The sensor is fully enclosed. Are you saying to pull the pins put solder on them and push them back in before the solder cools or do I crack open the sensor?
 

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Hey...watch this
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No no. Leave the sensor itself alone. It's the connector on the end of the wire you are after.
Use a flashlight and look closely into the end of the connector. You'll barely be able to see the tiny spring clip that holds the pin in the plastic housing. Use a very tiny flathead or a bobby pin to gently lift the spring while at the same time pull the wire out of the back of the connector. My wires were already pulled loose, so I had to push the pin while I sprung the spring. Then solder the pin on the wire like Yamaha should have done and push it back into the connector and listen for the spring to click.
 

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Speeding is relative
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81 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Oh ok so it's the connector on the harness that your saying is not well made. That makes a little more sense now about soldering the connections. Thanks I didn't even think about the harness itself.
 

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Speeding is relative
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81 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok well I pulled the connector off of both sensors and metered the connector with the power on. Both of them had power 4.6 - 4.8 volts while not connected. So I don't think it's the harness. I'm going to meter sensors tomorrow with the connectors and power on to check the sensors themselves. I also cleared the codes from the diagnostics screen but they came back after I powered back up.
 

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Hey...watch this
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You say 'sensors'? I believe there is only one atmospheric pressure sensor.
One pin is ground, one is +5v and the third varies between 0 and 5 depending on pressure. You can blow into the sensor to see if the data pin changes value.
It is possible that the sensor is bad, but I am still suspect of the connector.
Use a sewing needle to pierce the wires while it is connected to check the three voltages.
 

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Speeding is relative
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81 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I was referring to the Atmospheric Pressure Sensor and the Air Intake Pressure Sensor. The manual says the Fault Code 20 pops when there is a big difference in the readings. So I checked them both of the connectors that power them. When i get home from work tonite I'll check the sensors while plugged in. They are the same part, but in different spots on the bike. The readings I got from the pwered up connecters seemed fine.
 

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Speeding is relative
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81 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok so check this out. The fault code is gone! I was metering the sensor and connector, I was also pushing the metal connectors inside of the housing. I re seated the connector on the sensor, the code cleared and the check engine light is gone. I guess one of the metal connectors in the housing wasn't making good contact with the pins on the sensor.
 
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