[Juz10xD]

Picked up my r6 and it wasn't running. Previous owner said shop told him it needed an ECU. Would not crank over and had a few fault codes, 19 sidestand switch, 12 crankshaft position switch, 35(?) for tilt angle sensor.

Replaced my kickckstand switch, code 19 still there. Replaced crankshaft position switch and the fault code 12 went away. Found that the tilt angle sensor wasn't even mounted so I mounted it properly and the code for the tilt angle sensor went away.

I also noticed the neutral switch wasn't working because the cluster wouldn't indicate neutral even though it was. I replaced that switch with the kickstand switch but still the same problem with no crank. I reviewed the wiring and found this starter cut-off relay (recently replaced by shop), and tried to bypass it somehow. I found the neutral wire (Sky blue i believe) and grounded it (because for some reason it wasn't closing even in neutral), I then got a neutral light on in the dash, tried to crank it and it started cranking!

No start though and still had a code 19. After reviewing this forum, I found out about that common issue with the ignition wire harness rubbing against the fan blade. Surely, my wiring has been rubbed through and exposed. i repaired the wiring in that harness. Still cranking, but no start. I decided to jump 2 wires to ground at the cut off relay, blue black and blue yellow (if i remember correctly...), squeezed the clutch lever, then gave it a crank... IT STARTS! But dies when I release the clutch lever. So to get around, I just disconnected the clutch switch. It rides fine and I have a new cut-off relay, kickstand switch, and neutral switch on the way. Going to replace those asap.

I ripped open the the starter cut-off switch, and found a few diodes blew out. Must've been when the wiring harness shorted from rubbing.




Right now the bike isn't really safe because It's capable to be started in gear, can be moved in gear if kickstand is down, can be started without clutch lever pulled, and the kill switch doesn't do anything because it's jumped.

I saw alot of people with fault code 19, replacing the kick stand switch and ECU, and still having problems. Problem is the starter cut-off relay going bad, because of the bad wiring on the ignition harness. So fix the harness, and replace the cut-off relay. Do not replace the cut-off relay without fixing the harness or else you can short out numerous sensors on the bike which will add even more labor and money. Don't throw an ecu at it just because someone told you to. trace your wires.

 

[mclang]

I saw alot of people with fault code 19, replacing the kick stand switch and ECU, and still having problems. Problem is the starter cut-off relay going bad, because of the bad wiring on the ignition harness. So fix the harness, and replace the cut-off relay. Do not replace the cut-off relay without fixing the harness or else you can short out numerous sensors on the bike which will add even more labor and money. Don't throw an ecu at it just because someone told you to. trace your wires.

I am having the code 19 issue intermittently. The bike will start no issue then at certain times it wont start and display code 19. I will turn the kill switch and key off wait a half minute or so then turn kill switch on and key on and bike will start fine. Would being able to start without the clutch pulled in lead me to believe this is the same issue you had with your code 19? because i can currently start bike without clutch pulled in as long as bike is in neutral. All dash lights work though as they should. I know this is an old post but this seems to be the one post with the same issue and an actual solution to the problem. Thank you for any input you can possibly give.

 

[Juz10xD]

I saw alot of people with fault code 19, replacing the kick stand switch and ECU, and still having problems. Problem is the starter cut-off relay going bad, because of the bad wiring on the ignition harness. So fix the harness, and replace the cut-off relay. Do not replace the cut-off relay without fixing the harness or else you can short out numerous sensors on the bike oowhich will add even more labor and money. Don't throw an ecu at it just because someone told you to. trace your wires.

I am having the code 19 issue intermittently. The bike will start no issue then at certain times it wont start and display code 19. I will turn the kill switch and key off wait a half minute or so then turn kill switch on and key on and bike will start fine. Would being able to start without the clutch pulled in lead me to believe this is the same issue you had with your code 19? because i can currently start bike without clutch pulled in as long as bike is in neutral. All dash lights work though as they should. I know this is an old post but this seems to be the one post with the same issue and an actual solution to the problem. Thank you for any input you can possibly

Have you recently just got the bike? Sounds like the clutch switch is either stuck or bypassed. And ur kickstand or neutral switch is starting to go out. Regardless i dont think the kickstand switch should prevent a startup, unless your in gear of course with kickstand down.

Makes me lead to a neutral switch giving a false gear reading, or that starter relay acting up.

My bike would also have the same symptoms after i washed it because water would get into the kill switch

 

[yamahacrazy]

I am having the code 19 issue intermittently. The bike will start no issue then at certain times it wont start and display code 19. I will turn the kill switch and key off wait a half minute or so then turn kill switch on and key on and bike will start fine. Would being able to start without the clutch pulled in lead me to believe this is the same issue you had with your code 19? because i can currently start bike without clutch pulled in as long as bike is in neutral. All dash lights work though as they should. I know this is an old post but this seems to be the one post with the same issue and an actual solution to the problem. Thank you for any input you can possibly give.

you should be able to start a yamaha in N without touching the clutch lever. 100% normal. other brands like suzuki need the lever pulled in no matter what.

 

[Intuit]

Split my driver seat open pounding the ice off of it this time last week. Had enough experiences with poor quality rear seats on Amazon. FleaBay? Ehehehehe... that's funny.

Arrived at a local reupholstery shop Saturday morning on a 15-20 minute ride. It was flat ground so I parked it in neutral. Roughly five minutes later, came back out, stood beside the bike, key-in, green light staring me in the face, gave it a short crank expecting it to fire up as always. Dead crank. (crank but no start) Figured my crank was too short. Finished putting my gloves back on. Several seconds later gave it a slightly longer crank. Same thing. Hmmm. Hopped on, kickstand up, straightened out the handle bars ready for it to fire up on an even longer crank. Gave it a long crank. Again a dead crank. During the crank it *briefly* flashed '19'. Hmm. Whipped out the Windows Mobile phone intending to search the PDF manual for the fault code. Before I got far, decideded to key-off and try again. This time it fired up on a short crank as if the whole previous episode never happened. Pocketed the phone and went straight home.

In the driveway, did several stop and starts; all normal. Looked up the fault code in the PDF manual; side-stand switch. Quick visual inspection revealed nothing unusual. I didn't expect to find anything because the state of the kickstand is irrelevant in neutral; or should be. Couple of weeks ago I happened to notice that my clutch switch wasn't working and hadn't yet gotten around to pulling off, cleaning up and protecting the blade contacts with silicon spray and dielectric grease. But again, in neutral that should also be (and verifiably has been) irrelevant.

Intending to test the side stand and neutral switches, I found it was nearly impossible to get into diagnostic mode. Instead, kept getting into display brightness mode. Had no problems changing settings once there. Few times I did get to the Diag screen, I couldn't advance from there. One time I could but couldn't change anything. Couple of times I cycled through clock-set mode. Clock being wrong, decided may as well set it. Well, that attempt revealed something...
https://1drv.ms/v/s!AhsZJDCN8kMMgaQjH5YI_SZh10XTwA
My Reset button was apparently stuck. Pulled the automotive plastic push-ins out of the windshield cowel, remove the windshield and cluster. Opened up and...
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AhsZJDCN8kMMgaQi6pWMoL4OrBCNug
This aftermarket gauge cluster case allows the pad to 'sidestep' the button.

That fixed, could get into diag mode. Sidestand and neutral switches of course tested flawless. Never did locate the test for the clutch lever switch; but took the opportunity to address that issue as well. Confirmed, when the trans is in neutral, the sidestand switch is pretty much hard-set.

Nothing making sense about this one-time anomoly, took to searching the forum...
https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=lvl6XLX2F4ed-gTduJwg&q=site:r6-forum.com+code+19
Well, well, well. Lot of posts about this.

Upon reading this post, went and looked at that ignition lock ("main switch" in manual) wire harness...
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AhsZJDCN8kMMgaQhlB4sTDspTgkgLA

Friday, (last night) was a wet ride. Suspect that water in the harness, along with the insulation breaks is what allowed this to occur. Of course it can't be reproduce now. In the past I've gotten a metallic-electrical smell when riding wet. But that kind of went away the last year or so. Last night I sat and idled for an extended time, waiting on a train. Engine temp got to around a 183°F, (unusual for the Winter months,) bit of steam rising through the coweling. No wind, sitting still, engine getting warm, the smell had an opportunity make itself obvious again. I'm wondering if that had been the source of the smell all along? Probably not, but time will tell. I had searched the forum sometime last year and there was little of nothing.

Will be pulling apart the harness and posting pics if there's anything interesting. I did check against the manual's wire routing diagram. Didn't notice anything that was blatently wrong for the exposed sections. But I'll be paying careful attention and making sure that harnesses are properly routed with tie-downs.

 

[yamahacrazy]

it doesn't actually have a clutch lever switch test. you have to do it old school with a multimeter set on continuity.
how did the jacket on the wires get cut up like that?

 

[Intuit]

That explains why I couldn't find one. Connecting and disconnecting the switch seemed to trigger a relay; making noise. In the manual, it's wired into the starting circuit cut-off relay... which actually seems to be a module of two relays, several diodes and a resistor.

Like my OEM driver seat, the material has gotten brittle with age; far worse when it's cold. Insulation on the wires beneath is breaking just from movement. (see the yellow wire in photo) The harness runs between the steering head and body, is a little twisted and rubs against the frame as the steering head is moved.

 

[Intuit]

This has happened again, but when things had been dried out for awhile. The only thing that "resolves" the code is cycling the ignition key. Given that I've experienced issues out of every heavily used control switch except headlight and starter, there's a good chance that this code is being produced by a bad connection in the ignition switch itself, rather than the wiring.

 

[Tim Cathcart]

I am actually wondering if I am having a similar issue because of the ignition switch too..

 

[Tim Cathcart]

This has happened again, but when things had been dried out for awhile. The only thing that "resolves" the code is cycling the ignition key. Given that I've experienced issues out of every heavily used control switch except headlight and starter, there's a good chance that this code is being produced by a bad connection in the ignition switch itself, rather than the wiring.

Did you resolve your issue. What was the root cause or solution?

 

[Intuit]

Did the same thing to my ignition switch, that I did to "fix" the horn, kill, and turn-signal switches... I bathed it in silicon spray lubricant and repeatedly operated it. (disconnect the battery negative so you can rapidly key on/off without screwing with the ECU) Initially its drain was clogged with old powdered graphite lubricant but all the spray cleared it. Clearing all that powdered graphite lubricant made the key very difficult turn-on so I fetched a fresh key and destroyed the old copy. Then I added a *tiny* bit of powdered graphite back. (TIP: always copy your original key and store the original away - do NOT keep using the original key - use only as a master for making copies)

I put the word "fix" in quotes because I've had to periodically repeat with turn signal switch. This last time I treated it, I unscrewed the halves of the box for complete/direct access, which has proven to be more effective thus far. Can't really do that with the ignition switch.

 

[Tim Cathcart]

Just to follow up with this post and help folks in the future. I put in a temporary fix for my problem. It turned out the Main Ignition Switch is BAD. When turned on the Power signal is switched applying power to the electronics and computer via the Brown / Blue wire.

I discovered the small signal that comes from the ECU, (Blue/Black) that I show +10V DC on was not returning back from the main switch via the blue/yellow wire. I could not determine if the switch has and sort of resistive load in it and did not want to fry the computer. I dropped a 1K resister across those two signal wire back at the computer and that set the diagnostic circuit 20 to True or "on" Now D20 and D21 both show on, and it cranked over a few times, then fired up. My Error code 19 issue went away.

I am currently not in the mood for having to replace the main switch, gas tank cap, and rear seats key, so it will likely stay in this condition for the rest of the time I own the bike. I'll let the new owner know just so he is aware.

I hope someone reading this finds this useful before spending hours scratching their head. The fault code is very misleading in this case..


The main switch should be included in the service manual as part of the diagnostics tree, but that's a big miss on the part of the technical writers at Yamaha. I'm all for team yamaha, but that should be very basic content for a service manual.

 

[Intuit]

Cool. Questions:
1) Is the Blue/Black 10v constant or is it only present when the key is turned?
2) If it is constant, does adding the resistor increase parasitic battery drain by keeping some part of the ECU live when keyed-off?
3) Also confirm what generation motorcycle... 1st, 2nd or 3rd?

 

[Tim Cathcart]

Cool. Questions:
1) Is the Blue/Black 10v constant or is it only present when the key is turned?
2) If it is constant, does adding the resistor increase parasitic battery drain by keeping some part of the ECU live when keyed-off?
3) Also confirm what generation motorcycle... 1st, 2nd or 3rd?

Yes, Blue/Black is only present when key is turned on, no parasitic battery drain to worry about. I could likely be find to just short the wires.... (However, I have ready mixed reviews on that and I have not tested that option... It's working and I'm lazy and specs on the main switch are not easily available so that will come at a later date.

I don't know the generation... again not something I've found easily... it is a 2009 R6S.

 

[Intuit]

Cool. That's a 2nd Generation R6 motorcycle.

 

[ForKarl]

I had an intermittent crank no start issue a few months back. Code 19 and sometimes ECU code. Turning the key on and off would eventually get it to start, never had issues once it got going. I sprayed the ignition key hole with electrical cleaner and put a rag underneath. Lots of gunk came out. Re-lubed it with a small dab of powdered graphite. Seemed to fix it, haven't seen code 19 since. Hope it helps out someone.

 

[Intuit]

Fellas, cover your ignition after use...
Revitalizaire Unbreakable 1.3 Inch Magnet Discs, Polypropylene Coated Neodymium - Powerful Magnets for Fridge, Office, DIY Crafts - 1/8" Thick - 5 Pack: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JW0EC2G/

...keep water and debris out. I'm curious if anyone has had a bird sit on their windshield and poop right into their ignition? I haven't, but if the thought of that doesn't motivate you LoL...

EDIT 21y06m17d

 

[Technical Roadster]

What fixed it for me was tracing the main switch wires (main switch = Key switch). At the point where the main switch wires gets connected to the harness via a red connector I found corrosion. All I did was plug out the connector cut the two wires going into the red connector on each end of the connector sides (Black/Blue + Yellow/Blue wires) and merged them to their counterparts (Black/Blue to Black/Blue and Yellow/Blue to Yellow/Blue wires) from the harness (obviously soldered and heat shrinked it too for a strong connection). From there on I did not get the code 19 error anymore and my motorcycle would start without issues.

I really hope this helps someone as I searched a long time for the answer. : )

I have a 2009 Yamaha YZF-R6 stock btw.

Happy riding..