[tl001]

Short version: New clutch, bike dies when shift into 1st.

A little background:
05 R6
My buddy and I recently put in a new clutch (new friction plates, steel plates, springs). We followed instructions on this forum and the service manual, torque the bolts to factory specs, soaked the new plates, the correct order of the plates, matched punch marks on the lever and clutch boss, etc... when we put the bike in gear, STALLS...the bike jumps forward a bit then dies. (With the bike off, in 1st gear, the rear wheel rolls while the clutch lever is pulled in but it's REALLY REALLY hard to push; almost dragging.

So we figured that it might be the clutch cable being stretched, ordered a new one...SAME THING!!!

I'm no expert on working on bikes but by this time, we've troubleshoot'ed every possible area. CRYING OUT FOR HELP HERE!! Anyone that previously replaced their clutch, had issues then fixed it?

Thanks in advance EVERYONE!

 

[Agent4573]

Did you get new metal plates also also or just new friction plates? If you slipped the old clutch for a while you may have burned up the metal plates and warped them. Did any of them look discolored? Did you measure them to make sure they were in spec before reassembly?

 

[tl001]

Yup, got new metal plates too; whole clutch kit. Measured, aware of one that's thicker.

I've heard that the plates might be STUCK, tried to pop it in gear several times to break them loose, no luck. Next step would be to open it up AGAIN and reassemble AGAIN.

Just hoping someone here had this same problem before and fixed the issue.

ps. the metal plates were pretty burned up. :yes

 

[Agent4573]

Last time I had that problem was on a dirtbike and it turned out that the large retaining nut for the clutch basket was loose. Tightened that nut up and the problem basically fixed itself. Not sure if that will help in your case or not.

 

[tl001]

Was it the nut on the Clutch Boss or the Clutch Basket? I had to swap out the clutch boss too, thought I torque'd it down pretty tight. I guess I'll see if it's loose when I take it apart.

Thanks!

 

[hector113]

Make sure your clutch release arm is in the right location. I read on this forum where the arm was not in the right spot and he had the same problem. I copied this on the how to page.


This is a really easy project. I would say it would take the average guy 4 hours to do with no distractions. This procedure is detailed in the R6 enginge manual for the Pre 03 R6 starting on page 45 in the pdf file on this site. So download it first and print it out. I have also attached an image that shows the actual inside of the clutches.

Pay close attention to how the clutch cable connects to the shift linkage and how it goes back together. This will save lots of time on the reinstall. It is also detailed in the manual. This is on page 47 of the manual.

Take pictures if you can. This helped me greatly!

Tools needed
Philips screw driver to remove fairings
small flat head
5 mm allen wrench
10 mm socket and wrench
Inch pound or small foot pound torque wrench



Parts needed:
New gastet for clutch cover
8 friction plates
7 steel plates
6 new clutch springs
4 quarts of motorcycle oil (I use Yama Lube)
A new "E" clip if you bend or lose yours. Buy one just in case.



Bolt specs
Bolts holding the clutch cover on = 8.7 ft/lbs
5mm allen head

Bolts holding on the pressure plate=5.8 ft/lbs
10mm hex

Procedure
Put new clutches in a pan of motor oil and cover with a lid. I got dirt in oil while taking the bike apart and could not use the oil in the pan.

Start a timer for 30 minutes. That is the amout of time the clutches need to soak for the Barnett carbon clutches. Read the instructions with your kit.

Remove right side lower fairing

Drain engine oil

Remove the 5mm allen bolts holding on the clutch cover

Manuever the cover off and then remove the clutch linkage. Take your time and really watch how it is supposed to be. The correct position is in the manual. Don't lose your "E" clip unless you bought a new one.

Remove the 6 "10mm " bolts holding on the pressure plate. The clutch springs are behind these bolts.

Slide out the 8 clutches and 7 metal plates.

Look to see if the clutches have been soaking for 30 mintes. If not drink beer until time has been reached.

Slide in new clutches. There will be two green clutches in your pack. (at least in my kit) I had to start and end with a green clutch. The green side went so it was facing either the engine case or the clutch cover.

Alternate clutch plate, and then metal plate. You will end with a green clutch facing toward you.

Put on the pressure plate. Read page 54 of the manual for the exact procedure. Make sure the punch marks in the pressure plate and the pull lever are aligned. I missed this and had to start over.

Put new springs over stock bolts and thighten to 5.8 ft/lbs.

Reconnect the clutch linkage.

Put on the clutch cover and tighten the allen bolts to 8.7 ft/lbs

Check the clutch lever and see if the clutch disengages. If you changed springs, mine as well, the lever should feal much stiffer. You will also need to adjust the slack in the clutch cable up by the lever.

Fill with oil and put another beer in the freezer.

Put on your helemt and go for a short ride around the block to test it out. Do not go fast until you are sure you did it right.

Put on your fairings. Drink your ice cold beer to a job well done!

I am not responsible if you mess up your motor or trans. Let me know if you have questions or if I missed a step.