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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I must have freaking spent 3 hours last night trying to get my Gregg's running as running lights and turn signals. They would light up just fine but then when switched to turn signals I could hear the relay click and the LED would just stay shut off. WTF??????
As for relays I've tried 12V 40amp and 12V 30amp both with no success. My rear lights use Watsen designs mini blinkers with no resistor and an EL12 flasher relay to replace the stock one to reduce flash rate.

Anyone else not able to get it going? I used the following guides:
http://sportbikeguy.com/garage/floor/headlight-mod.html

This one:
http://www.r6-forum.com/nuke/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=3611&highlight=relay
and this diagram

and redid the wiring according to Cheng http://r6-forum.com/nuke/modules.ph...opic&t=1638&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=45
and tried this wiring diagram as well (I think anyway, I was pretty much done by now)


Finally I gave up and have not running lights. anyone have any suggestions? WTF am I doing wrong? I'm willing to undo everything and start over.
 

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Dude, I just wired the black lead on the flushie to brown/green and the red wire to blue. The blinker wire acts as ground when the running lights are on and when the blinker is activated the lights just blink opposite the back signals.

No flasher relays for me!!!!
 

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what the hell are you guys doing? just splice the wires from the OEM signals it took me like 5 minutes to do it.
 

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what the hell are you guys doing? just splice the wires from the OEM signals it took me like 5 minutes to do it.
 

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My flushmounts only had 2 wires, so I couldn't just directly splice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
yup the flushies only have 2 wires. By reading the other posts I assumed that you couldn't just wire without a relay. Dammit I'll try again tonight. Thanks Krom. I'll let you know how it goes. What flushmounts do you have?
 

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can't u just connect the running light and the blinker ligth together, and then the ground one together....Or will you blow a fuse doing that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
No dice

Nope. No dice! Tried that and it still would run as a running light but as soon as I hit the turn signal it would go out. Maybe it has something to do with the new flasher I put in (EL12). :cuss
 

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Sounds like you got the wiring correctly with the Relay setup using the first picture. That is the setup that I have on my bike.

I checked what Krom said about wiring with the running light and the turn wire only. I am not so sure about that but if it works, there maybe something to be learn here.

If you got rid of the relay and you are still having the same problem, then I bet you that you are right. It is the EL12. If you have your old flasher, put that one back in. It sounds like the EL12 is flashing one way and not flashing back for some reason.

I kind of like the quick flasher (Hyper Signal). I think it makes people notice you more. Also, after several of my friend saw the flasher flashing quickly, they say it is "HyperFlasher" and thought that I did it intentionally. They say that racers use them. One advantage of Hyper Flashing is that you don't notice that the front and rear flasher are not flashing at the same time.
 

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What size resistor and what bulbs do you have on your rear signals?

You may try going back to the original relay, but more likely you'll want to step up the resistors you have in the back. I have a tail integrator (0 resistance) and 20-Watt, 8-ohm resistors on each side between ground and the signal wire.

Regarding the running/blinking up front...When the blinkers are off, the signal wires are at ground potential and the running light wire is at +12VDC. When you switch the blinkers on, the running light wire stays at +12V, but the signal wire goes from 0V to +12V. So when the signal wire is at 0V (ground), your light is on and when it goes to +12V, you have 0V potential between the wires and therefore no light.

Good luck broseph!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for replying Cheng and Krom. What a freaking nightmare, well not really compared to other problems in the world but still.....

In the rear I have a set of Watsen designs mini blinkers

They come with 10W 7.5 Ohm resistors that are not being used in the circuit.
In the front I have the Gregg's flushmounts and 194NA bulbs in the light housings. These are wired in parallel. I replaced the flasher with an EL12 to slow the blinking down before I got the Gregg's. I'm starting to think that it can be the EL12 flasher now as that seems to be the only variable that's not accounted for. Any other suggestions or see anything that I'm doing wrong? I mean I don't mind not having running lights but if I had a choice I'd like to have them.

Here's my bike so far:
Akra slip on
Securipage pager alarm
Watsen Mini led rear blinkers
Gregg's flushmount front blinkers
Painted windscreen
Intuitive sliders
Relocated license plate
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
krom said:
What size resistor and what bulbs do you have on your rear signals?

You may try going back to the original relay, but more likely you'll want to step up the resistors you have in the back. I have a tail integrator (0 resistance) and 20-Watt, 8-ohm resistors on each side between ground and the signal wire.

Regarding the running/blinking up front...When the blinkers are off, the signal wires are at ground potential and the running light wire is at +12VDC. When you switch the blinkers on, the running light wire stays at +12V, but the signal wire goes from 0V to +12V. So when the signal wire is at 0V (ground), your light is on and when it goes to +12V, you have 0V potential between the wires and therefore no light.

Good luck broseph!!!!
Sorry but you lost me after "Regarding"
 

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flowrider said:
They come with 10W 7.5 Ohm resistors that are not being used in the circuit.
No resistors? That's your problem. You're not putting enough load on the system to work the relay. Go grab a couple resistors (20-Watt, 8-ohm resistors on each side between ground and the signal wire) from radio shack and you should be good.

That's a sweet ass bike!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
krom said:
flowrider said:
They come with 10W 7.5 Ohm resistors that are not being used in the circuit.
No resistors? That's your problem. You're not putting enough load on the system to work the relay. Go grab a couple resistors (20-Watt, 8-ohm resistors on each side between ground and the signal wire) from radio shack and you should be good.

That's a sweet ass bike!!
Thanks for the compliment!

Where do I wire in the resistor? Front or back or get a couple more and both?
 

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flowrider said:
Oh and when you mean the relay, do I put in the 5 prong relays back in?
You shouldn't need to.

I wired the resistors into the rear circuit and used zip-ties to attach them to the subframe because they get kinda hot and I didn't want to melt any plastic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
YAHOOOOOO!!!!!!

:jump :jump :jump :jump :jump :jump :jump :jump
FINALLY!!!!!! Thanks Krom for seeing the missing resistor!!!!

I think I owe you a :cheers if you ever come up to Vancouver, BC, Canada!!

Thanks!!!
 

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I thought that if you are using the EL12 relay, you don't need the resistor.

Anyway, glad that you found the solution. Great looking bike.

BTW, I mounted my signal in the rear the same way but I didn't want to spend much so I only got the surface mount MOTRAX MICRO FLUSH MOUNT TURN SIGNALS CycleGear for $15 a pair.
http://www.cyclegear.com/spgm.cfm?L1=&L2=&L3=&L4=&item=MRX_FM1_G

I think I should get the white with Amber bulb so they wouldn't stand out too much. These signal are bright and can be seen at large viewing angle.
 
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