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I could do a power wheelie in 2nd with stock gearing. But now I have 50 in the rear stock front and its so much easier. that -1 will hurt your top end. I would just do the +2.

my 2 cents
 

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I dont like standing up it kinda scares me. The only time I will/have to stand and "bounce it" is in 3rd.
I have also learned its all in the rider. Because I wont shift in the air like others.
 

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z31maniac said:
I'm not to worried about not being able to do 160 anymore. I just want more pull out of the corners.

You could power wheelie in 2nd, no bounce not standing up?
if you scootch your ass way back in the seat, you can power it up in 2nd sitting down.

standing you might still have to bounce it a little in 2nd but the bike will come up with a bounce in 3rd while standing too!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
stoneloco808 said:
like jasamb says it is possible. ive done it, for me snapping the throttle works for sit downs.
But thankfully my near 200lb ass doesn't practice wheelies that much, nor do I want. Just curious if is going to do in 2nd what it now does in 1st. WOT about 9k front wheel starts lifting.

Although I'm starting to get good at keeping the front wheel only a couple of inches of the ground while hauling ass through 1st. :cheers
 

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I have 15-49 gearing and my front wheel is extremely light on any hard acceleration. But alot of how the front end reacts has alot to do with your body position.

I can hang off and twist a damn good amount in 2nd coming out of a turn and it holds fine. if I were on a drag strip and leaning back or sitting back on the seat.....that's a whole other thing.

I'd try the 15-49 like i have. Then if you dont like it, you can go to a 48 rear, and if you want more bottem end, you can also squeeze a 50 rear tooth in.
 

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-Can you go WOT in 2?

yes, if you keep your weight on the front, you should be fine (you can still take off hard off the line like in a drag racing situation), but if the wheel starts to come up you can easily play with the throttle to get it to float back down.

-Do you need a new chain?

If you are going with the same size sprockets (530 to 530 or 520 to 520) you can re-ues the chain, HOWEVER, it is a very very very bad idea for two reasons: 1) the old worn out chain will not last very long 2) the way the chain is worn will cause the sprockets to wear out unevenly causing reduced life.

-Do you need any special tools?

Nope, a couple of sockets, a torque wrench and a means to lift the rear wheel.
 

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flyin' hawaiian
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jasamb said:
-Do you need any special tools?

Nope, a couple of sockets, a torque wrench and a means to lift the rear wheel.
well it all depends on what kind of master link is on the chain, rivet or c-clip. i opted for the rivet type, so i also got a chain breaker/rivetitng tool kit. here is a link to the review i posted on the MotionPro tool. either way you will need something to press the master link into place. just a side note a friend of mine got the c-clip type and some how lost the clip. luckily one of our friends noticed it.
 

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Totally agree with the other guys.. I did a RK 520 chain with conversion Vortex sprockets on my bike... very easy install.... had to cut the old chain off with a dremel. Here is how i did it.

1. Remove front sprocket cover using allen wrench.
2. Remove front sprocket using a breaker bar and socket. (May require someone holding the back of bike to keep tire and chain from spinning.
3. Install new sprocket and torque to proper tightness.
4. Lift rear tire off ground using a race stand.
5. Take off tire and remove old sprocket
6. Cut off old chain with a dremel using a cutting bit
7. Install new chain onto front sprocket and feed it through.
8. Install rear tire with new sprocket and feed chain around the sprocket.
9. Measure the right length for the chain pushing axle bar all the way forward . (This may require you to adjust the axle stop bolts all the way forward.)
10. Cut the excess links off the chain. (I recommend you cut one link at a time and remeasure till its right.)
11. Once chain is adjusted put chain together using a chain tool or if you dont have one, you can use a large C-clamp and some nuts with holes large enough for the links to fit through as this will allow the chain link to be tightened.
12. Tighten the axle nut and adjust the bolts that push on the axle blocks to allow the appropriate chain lag.

Total time should be about 1 hour.
 
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