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sportbike noob
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626 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Gonna tackle a leaking seal this weekend. My question is this. Do you need to back off all rebound and compression settings? Or can you leave them where u have them set? Reading in the service manual and dont see anything about it. Doesnt look like any special tools except the damper rod holder which im trying to locate or seeing if theres a wrench similar that works?
 

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Stunt Rider
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7,982 Posts
Yes, soften er thang.

Do you have a fork seal driver?
 

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Mr. HER6
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2,084 Posts
You only need the damper rod holder if you're going to remove it. I'm pretty sure you can leave it on to change the seals. You can on other models. Don't see why these would be any different.

I thought the manual had all the details in it. You don't need to do anything with the compression damping, but you need to set the rebound adjuster when re-attaching the fork cap. That's what determines the range of the adjuster. Back off on the spring preload too.
 

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sportbike noob
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626 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ya i dont want to take it out if i dont have to. What holds the upper and lower leg together then? Set the rebound asjuster to the softest setting?
 

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Mr. HER6
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2,084 Posts
There are bushings on both ends that catch on each other and some clips to hold them and the seals in place. You will knock one out as you pull the legs apart. Search for some instructional videos on youtube and it will make sense. The damper rod only attaches at the base of the lower leg and at the fork cap. So you can just leave it in the lower leg. There is another tool called a fork bleeder that screws on to the damper rod where the cap did. You don't absolutely need it, but it gives you a convenient place to hold on to the rod and you don't have to fish it out from in the tube when it collapses all the way.

Yes, back off the rebound screw before loosening the locknut on the fork cap. When reassembling you need to set it at the stiffest damping position (something like 20 or 22 clicks in) and thread the cap on by hand just until it seats. This has the adjuster pushing the adjuster rod all the way down and is the location you want the cap to sit at. Back off the adjuster at this point a bit to avoid forcing the adjuster rod further when you tighten the lock nut. Then check that you have the right number of clicks in your range and you can set it back to where you want it.
 

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sportbike noob
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626 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok thanks alot for the info. Like i said ive been reading the service manual forthis process. Ill just skip the damper rod part. Only special tool i need kis one to compress the fork leg correct to remove the cap? Other then that it seems pretty cut and dry
 

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Mr. HER6
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2,084 Posts
You'll also need an accurate way to measure the oil level. The standard tool is a syringe with a rod on the end that you can stick down the fork tube the proper distance and then suck out the excess oil.

The standard spring compressors that have a piece you slide under to hold it in place (like the manual shows) will require a wrench something like 3mm wide to fit in between and reach the fork cap locknut. If you rig up some straps to hold the compressor down further then you'll have room for a regular wrench.

It is a fairly simple process once you're familiar with it. Just go slow, follow the instructions, and don't force things. Do one leg completely and the second one will go a lot faster. If you don't have a workbench I'd also recommend setting down a big piece of cardboard or old towel to work on. There's a good chance you'll spill or drip oil as you fumble around with stuff and you'll probably want a place to set things down that is clean and won't scratch them.
 

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Make good choices.
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2,808 Posts
It is a fairly simple process once you're familiar with it. Just go slow, follow the instructions, and don't force things. Do one leg completely and the second one will go a lot faster.
So true. The service manual actually makes it seem a lot more complicated than it really is.
 

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Yamaha Blue in any color
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3,254 Posts
So true. The service manual actually makes it seem a lot more complicated than it really is.
If that ain't the truth :fact. Follow the manual and you'll never get the rebound clicks the same :laugh
 

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sportbike noob
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626 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ya it does make it seem harder then you guys have explained it. I also wouldnt have known about the rebound adjuster to crank it all the way in and then thread it on. Waiting for the seals to be shipped and ill be on my way
 
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